That's why I'm here...
No book can answer EVERY question. (Thanks for buying it, btw)Yes, if you go to KW, you'll have to have a holding tank too. However, it shouldn't have to be a very large one unless you're planning to stay there for a very long time. A 10-12 gal tank should be adequate to see two people through a couple of days...if you stay longer, you'll have to pump out or go out to sea beyond 3 miles a couple of times. Slightly inconvenient, maybe, but not as inconvenient as having to that everywhere."If the tank is holding the treated material, can I dsicharge the tank over the side once I leave the no-discharge zone?"No. Once the waste goes into a tank, even if it's been treated first, it's no longer considered treated waste. Reason: although the L/S reduces bacteria count to between 0-5/100 ml, only one of the li'l buggers has to survive and multiply to increase bactera count in the tank to way over the legal limit for treated waste...which can happen in as little as an hour in hot weather. So whether waste going into the tank is treated first or not, you'll still have to either pump out or get out beyond 3 miles (6-12 miles in some parts of FL Gulf waters) to dump the tank legally.As I said above, a 10-12 gallon tank--should be adequate for your needs in addition to a L/S. Put a y-valve in the head discharge that allows you to choose between flushing overboard through the L/S or into the tank...whether you put it ahead of the L/S or after it is your choice. Or, if the boat has two heads, put the L/S on the most used toilet, put the tank on the other one. When in "no discharge" waters--which in FL are limited to the Keys and Destin Harbor--just lock the door the head that goes through the L/S and use the other one. If you spend a lot of time offshore beyond the "3 (6 or 9) mile limit," put y-valves in both toilet discharge lines so you can flush directly overboard from either one at sea.