Calking
- Thread starter thetone
- Start date
I presume you are taking about dropping your keel and re-bedding it. Note that if you are experiencing any leakage around a bolt, applying anything to the exposed edge of the seam will potentially accelerate the corrosion of the bolts from the trapped moisture around them.
Product: Any good brand that is rated for continuous underwater use, and is a "sealant adhesive". Probably even more important is that both of the mating surfaces be *completely* clean and free of contamination. When re-bedding the keel never, for a moment, assume that the all of the original mold-release wax was properly removed from the hull. (No matter what kind of 'goo' you apply it has to stick well to both surfaces.)
No T-shirt, but I have been there and done that...
Product: Any good brand that is rated for continuous underwater use, and is a "sealant adhesive". Probably even more important is that both of the mating surfaces be *completely* clean and free of contamination. When re-bedding the keel never, for a moment, assume that the all of the original mold-release wax was properly removed from the hull. (No matter what kind of 'goo' you apply it has to stick well to both surfaces.)
No T-shirt, but I have been there and done that...
If all you want is something to caulk the seam, choose a flexible sealant, not an adhesive. The former will stay somewhat flexible rather than crack again.
A bit more information would help with advice. A picture of the keel stub seam would help. When our stub joint developed a crack and was leaking, this is what I did:
1. Lifted boat off of keel.
2. Cleaned and faired keel stub and prepped for new joint.
3. Applied 3M 5200 to the joint as recommended by the yard for below the waterline.
4. Placed boat back on the keel and torqued the keel bolts.
5. Applied two coats hard bottom paint, followed by two coats ablative.
6. Splashed.
That was in 2004 and have had no new cracks, leakage, etc., since after thousands of cruising miles. Some will apply sealant to the crack surface, but that is a temporary fix, IMHO.
1. Lifted boat off of keel.
2. Cleaned and faired keel stub and prepped for new joint.
3. Applied 3M 5200 to the joint as recommended by the yard for below the waterline.
4. Placed boat back on the keel and torqued the keel bolts.
5. Applied two coats hard bottom paint, followed by two coats ablative.
6. Splashed.
That was in 2004 and have had no new cracks, leakage, etc., since after thousands of cruising miles. Some will apply sealant to the crack surface, but that is a temporary fix, IMHO.