cabinet construction glitch

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Sep 26, 2010
808
Macgregor 1993 26S Houston
I successfully made all the pieces to assemble a cabinet in the head in my 26S.
Made from 1/2" oak plywood, I thought it looked pretty good. I rubbed on a nice dark reddish stain, and later the 1st coat of spar varnish. I let it sit that way a couple weeks until I was ready to continue. Today I tried to sand it down to prep it for the 2nd coat and I think I really messed it up.
I tried using a home made sanding block cause I thought it would make sanding easier. Well, it did but it also took too much material from some of the areas near and at the edges / corners. Now I have areas with no stain and I'm not sure what will the best way to salvage it. I think if I just try to re-stain those spots, it'll just make it worse. (it'll end up looking patched?)
I'm considering just sanding it all off and going "blonde" or maybe starting over on the cabinet front.
Is there a better, or more user friendly finish? The spar varnish really raises the grain when it drys after the 1st coat or 2 and you have to sand it back smooth.
I thought I wanted all my woodwork to match the panel in the cabin that I started with but maybe I'm making it too hard. I like the darker color.
Jim
 

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Sumner

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Jan 31, 2009
5,254
Macgregor & Endeavour 26S and 37 Utah's Canyon Country
Sep 25, 2008
961
Macgregor & Island Packet VENTURE 25 & IP-38 NORTH EAST, MD
Minwax has a great product line called Polyshades. Its stain and polyurethane in one can. It applies just like paint. Sand the first coat with a very fine sandpaper and put the second coat on nice and "wet" to get a nice glossy finish. There are many different colors available, you might be able to match the finish already inside your boat.
 
Jun 3, 2004
1,863
Macgregor 25 So. Cal.
I agree with Sumner.

Us a rag and then wipe it off and if still not dark enuff wipe again untill you get what you want.

Hint---To get stain off you hands rub in Baby Oil first, let set a minute and then wash.

Hint 2--- Before staining or clear coating wipe down with a damp rag to raise the grain then sand. Repeat untill the grain is even then stain and clear coat.
 
Dec 30, 2009
680
jeanneau 38 gin fizz sloop Summer- Keyport Yacht Club, Raritan Bay, NJ, Winter Viking Marina Verplanck, NY
Leave the stain on long enough to get it even, the way u want it. I would use steel wool between coats of stain and poly. U really don't need to do much than wipe after stain. Use steel wool with the grain in between coats of poly...Red
 
Jun 3, 2004
1,863
Macgregor 25 So. Cal.
The use of steel wool is discouraged on a boat because the little slivers will rust and leave stains.

I use the redish brown pads from 3m by the sand paper.
 
Oct 6, 2011
678
CM 32 USA
Your title says it all: Redo it if that is what your inner self wants. I will do things over till I am happy with a project. Half the fun is doing the project, so you are still having fun.
 

geehaw

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May 15, 2010
231
O-day 25 shoal keel Valdez
I agree with trying to match the stain. Sanding to re-stain may take you through the veneer on the plywood. Second the polyurethane rather then spar varnish. Another secret of getting a fine finish is to put on two coats sand with 120 to 240 put a third coat sand with 320 or even 600. Then mix the poly 3 parts paint thinner to 1 part poly. Use a soft cotton rag and wipe it on, leave it wet for about 5 minutes and with a slightly dampened rag of same mixture wipe it off. Let dry for an hour, repeat. It should be as smooth as a bay's bottom. Greg
 
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