Cabin top core repair

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Steve H.

Well I did it, removed cabin deck skin from behind the hatch to behind the dorade boxes, about a 3' x 4' section, all cuts on the non-skid part. Came off without too much trouble since there was not much left of the core, (think peat moss). Got a good look at the construction of the dorade boxes, that plywood core never had a chance. At least now I can rebuild the bottom of the dorades so the water drains out instead of in. Question now is what to use for the new core? End grain balsa, plywood like the original, rigid foam board, poured in foam or even solid glass. Epoxy resin will be used of course to glue it all back together, maybe even vacuum bag it if I can get my hands on a vacuum pump. Anyone have any ideas or experience for the core material? Anyone know when spring will get here?
 
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Bill G.

Core repair

Steve Good luck on your repair. I did the same on my 76H27 about 2 years ago. The scaryist part was cutting out the outer layer. I had 2 soft areas each about 1X3 ft. I replaced the core with more balsa and used epoxy to bond it all together just as you are doing. It seems to me that most of the choices except balsa or foam will add a lot of weight to the repaired areas and since I couldn't find a source (for small quantities) for the marine plastic core products I went with balsa. After a lot of looking I found a Canadian company that would sell me the small amount of balsa that I needed. I spent a lot of time sanding to get the surface fair and after 2 coats of antiskid paint you can't see any evidence of the repair. . Bill
 
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Jerry

Watched it being done..

a number of times. I work in the marine business and have covered this topic with surveyors and our people who do the work. Volumes have been written about proper installation of EGB (end grain balsa). Right now there are issues with the larger SeaRay yachts from 1995 through 2000. Bill did not elaborate on how he completed it, but the product must be adherred to both the inner and outer glass structures. Our guys use high density closed cell foam, and I have seen it done a number of times. A 4X8X3/4" sheet costs about $130 here. The installation is much more forgiving, but this type of repair is not as strong as the balsa. Sorry if I raised more questions than answers, but hope it helps. A great article was in the Practical Power Boater several issues back. I think it was last September or October. Good luck with the repair and lasting out the winter. It's supposed to be 75 here tomorrow.
 
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Ed Allen

Stay with balsa

Have done a number of repairs to this type of deck. If done properly it will be strong. You will need to ensure the water seepage is stopped. and that the core is wet out with your epoxy so it cannot obsorb water. solid repairs are too heavy and will crack as the boat works. use the same materials that were there and you will save yourself a lot of problems.
 
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