cabin table

LooseDiamond · Nov 2, 2009

1884? That IS an old boat! Just kidding. The table in my '78 C22 is fiberboard. Strong enough, but will warp/swell when wet.

Bilbo · Nov 3, 2009

The original one of composite, I consider heavy. I have replaced my cabin table with a second replacement. The first was of 1/2" plywood of decent quality. I reinforced it's structure to prevent bowing and covered it in West system epoxy. Sine, I have made a "fancier" one of built up strips of pine, walnut and cedar. I also made my own table leg because the older one had broken at the hinge.
Here is my dimensions for my (really new) 1987 -C 22
BUT I'd recommend that you check your boat's table and copy your older table measurements as these things are often not the same.

Ken · Nov 3, 2009

The one in my 81 is particle board with wood grain Formica covering it. (heavier than lead) A laid up table as Bilbo has done would be much lighter and a heck of a lot prettier.

(Bilbo, most of the folks I sail with that have a "new style" have made a short 1/2 table, sure gives the cabin room).

Sailed a couple years ago with a fellow that used Black Walnut to make his table. Talk about sharp!! If I were making a replacement I would use laid up boards, not the particle board.

Bilbo · Nov 3, 2009

Ken said:
The one in my 81 is particle board with wood grain Formica covering it. (heavier than lead) A laid up table as Bilbo has done would be much lighter and a heck of a lot prettier.

(Bilbo, most of the folks I sail with that have a "new style" have made a short 1/2 table, sure gives the cabin room).

Sailed a couple years ago with a fellow that used Black Walnut to make his table. Talk about sharp!! If I were making a replacement I would use laid up boards, not the particle board.

Hi Ken, I've seen the 1/2 tables. and thought about one of those. The full length table is difficult to get in and out of. There is an issue with people pushing on the corner and having it upset (If you don't add some sort of locking device).

The original table was some composite particle or chip board that was like 5/8ths inch thick. If it's not been soaked, it would be fairly sturdy but heavy. It's true that it's the same weight as lead. One could make a table out of a slab of granite kitchen counter and the boat would float 3" higher in the water once the original table slab is removed.

This is what I'm using now. There isn't all that much walnut but it's laid up with Gorilla glue. There are 4 Walnit strips, 4 pine planks, two red cedar pieces. There are some cross stiffeners so that it can be stood on when I'm tightening the vang. This photo is of the table upside down.

The post pivots down and then when the table is resting on the post, the post recesses into a slot so that it won't get kicked under accidentally.The post is laid up from a walnut sandwich with a thin white pine strip in between. The 3 plywood ribs are glued into slots and the pads on the sides are to aid in strength where the table rests on the seats as a bed. The SS brackets are from the original table.

Clark · Nov 4, 2009

Make sure that if you do choose the layed-up construction that you seal the wood well. Differential "breathing" of the boards could cause cracks and warps. Another option would be some cabinet grade Birch ply (5/8" ?) with teak strips on the edges. It could be stained to look like teak or left natural for a nice contrast. That much ply wouldn't break the bank and neither would narrow strips of teak. As always, seal the heck out of it.

Bilbo · Nov 4, 2009

Well yes, wood should be sealed well. My wood above was sealed with a satin varnish. This table has survived a season on the lake and the cost is rather minimal since I had the wood around the house.

I tried a plywood table and the thing is that it has to be made in a way that limits any warpage from weight. Otherwise, the edge boards will come loose. There can be a lot of pressure from standing on the back corner or from sitting on the table when in bed position. This can include using thicker plywood like 3/4" but that will add weight. With plywood, you also have the sealing problem so it won't delaminate unless it's marine grade (which would be expensive).

Clark · Nov 6, 2009

Wasn't knocking it at all Bilbo; I think your table looks GREAT! Just trying to raise a flag for the OP who seems to be a newbie at woodworking. And yes, a ply version would need stiffeners underneath as well and while 3/4 would be 'heavy' I think it would still weigh less than the particle board original. I was thinking that the trim would be on the order of 1/8-3/16" or even a venier.

philwsailz · Nov 6, 2009

I am a woodworker, and really do not like the stock table. That is the one thing about the old boats that is cheap like so many new boats. Go look at a new boat and you will see way too much laminate and engineered materials! That being said the table is about the only "too cheap" part of our old Catalinas.

Bilbo, your table is gorgeous! Nice work!

While it would be pricey, and would no doubt need some mechanical stabilization, I wonder about possibly using STARBOARD as a suitable substitute for table-top material? One can cut it and work it with traditional woodworking tools, yet as a synthetic meterial, it would not require the finish and maintenance of a wood table replacement. Just a thought.

If I get around to doing a table replacement any time soon, I am going to try to round up a piece of mahogany plywood, and then use some mahogany lumber stock to cover the edges of the ply with a little bit of a fiddle lip. My finish of choice would likely be Sikkens Cetol in their marine clear gloss. It is incredibly easy to apply and re-apply and results in a very robust durable finish.

Bilbo · Nov 6, 2009

Hi Clark,
No problem

You made a valid point. My table may actually appear to be unfinished so I was just pointing out that I had sealed it. On the first plywood table, I had some leftover from replacing the bulkheads and like the bulkheads, I coated that table in West System Epoxy after staining it.

As for the material of the old stock table. I think that it's what they were using for such things back when these boats were designed. I consider the C 22 to be a cross between a sail boat and the basic 60's 70's tent camper in many respects. ...including a space issue...... but it really is a finely designed series of compromises.

Phil,
I can't help you with the StarBoard material. I'd assume it's a synthetic?. Aha:
http://www.kingstarboard.com/Products/Starboard.aspx
So, it depends upon what you want to use.
When I replaced my bulkheads, I tried to investigate marine grade plywood and I found it expensive. I also found that the teak ply used in the cabin isn't marine grade anyway. It just needs protection from the leaks that can happen with these boats.

When we are on the water, we will either pull over to a dock to eat or we often eat in the cockpit. So, I think that I actually used the table about three times as a table last season. The rest of the time, it was down for space/storage. So, I actually kind of forgot the details of how I built it.

If one is using a table, one can consider doing a few things. Such as recesses for cups or a lip around the edge to prevent less spills.

Another point is that you probably want to consider something in a way to aid the attachment brackets. Sometimes, they will let loose when a person puts some weight on a corner. This is a flaw in the table design and CD sells a fancy fix for this. It's not quite as dangerous as the pop-top falling on a hand but it's not something that you want happening.

Ken · Nov 6, 2009

easy cockpit table

Here is what we use when cruising, with the old style boat I can't tell you how many years it's been since that cabin table was in the upright position. The cockpit table was made using two three inch closet flanges and a piece of three inch PVC. The table top and bottom were made making one cut in a table top piece of laid up board bought at one of the big box stores.

The second table is a cross cockpit table we use when making coffee or just need a lunch table.

Bilbo · Nov 7, 2009

Nice ideas Ken

I've considered a cockpit table here also.
Where do keep these when not using them?

Alfred · Nov 7, 2009

Good day
I have an old boat 1979 Catalina 22 #81. The table that I have is of plywood, about 1/2" to 3/4" thick covered with Formica. No Formica on the bottom just bare wood. I believe that it is of some marine type plywood. The Plywood, that I have, doesn't seem to warp at all. The only problem that I had, was that the edge strip of formica came loose, but a little epoxy fixed that. I too have wondered what kind of wood was used in the table and compartment covers? I have had no problems with the wood that was used in 1979. If you have a High end lumber company take it in and Ask. I have a Southern Lumber company here that is able to tell the type of wood. Fair Winds AL

alfred · Nov 7, 2009

Table date error

Good morning
I must of had a brain #!&*#! this morning, My Catalina 22 is a 1970. I hope that I didn't cause any problems. apologetic Al

Ken · Nov 8, 2009

cockpit tables

We just toss them in the back lazerette, once broken down they stow easily.

texaspsdx · Dec 1, 2009

I made mine new table out of Starboard. It has been great so far.

txtowman · Dec 6, 2009

mine is used 3/4 plywood with no finish and lots of blemishes. If I ever find another job i will make a proper one. The original was cut in half to make room for a cooler box and is useless. I sleep on the dinette so I need something substantial as I weigh about #235.

Boom Magnet · Dec 23, 2009

Table for the Catalina

I replaced the table in my '73 with a peice of 3/4" plywood that was "sand ply" grade, that's the stuff they use to make medium grade cabinets. It's strong and the thickness should keep it from warping. You can dress up the outer edges with some trim from a place like Lowes/homeDepot.

paphman said:
My wife and I sail a 1884 C-22. I would like to change out the cabin table covering and think it best to build a new one. Does anyone know what the cabin table is made of ? I want to make sure that it does not warp and is strong. Thanks

Dale

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