Cabin soles made from Starboard

[SFS]

I'm about to begin putting new soles in my 1983 H31. I am seriously considering Starboard rather than wood in order to reduce the upkeep factor. I've searched the archives (though you can imagine how often the word "starboard" is used in posts), and haven't found much, except this quote from DianaOfBurlington, in a thread about Plasteak above decks:

"....Vinyl siding is chalky paste in about 15 years. I'd venture the same timeframe for these polypropylene fake-wood products as well (including Starboard, which both loves mold and faints under UV)."

Has anyone redone cabin soles in Starboard (or an equivalent competitor's product)? Any feedback on how well it worked/works? Is it slippery when wet? Does it attract mold?

Any feedback is appreciated.

 

[31seahorse]

I would think Starboard would be a skating rink in the cabin. Would nonskid stick to it? Unless there is a very good reason to do something else I would replace the wood with wood. Resale value and nautical look are considerations in this case as in any project done by an owner.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I would think Starboard would be a skating rink in the cabin.

I'll second and third that .

Starboard is often used for sliders under ramp ends due to its low coefficient of friction (B.S. for slippery). One other problem is that nothing will stick to it (high density polyethylene). It does have many applications on boats as it is highly UV resistant but soles just isn't one of them.

 

[SFS]

Ok, I guess I have a LOT of staining, epoxy sealing, and topcoating (read more research) to do.

 

[Tom G P-21]

I haven't used it but looking around, plasteak still looks like your best option.

http://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-re...s/teak-holly-and-flooring/teak-holly-flooring

 

[SFS]

I don't get the whole "Comes in a roll and you glue it onto plywood" approach, compared to putting in wood. Seems like too much work and too much expense. You have to cut the plywood in either approach, you have to seal all the sides and edges with epoxy in either approach. After those step, the only thing left with wood is to topcoat it (an entire universe of possibilities, I know), then screw it down. With the vinyl, you have the gluing, the trimming, the matching of the patterns at the edges and hatches, dealing with the long lengths in a confined space. Sure, once it's in it's no maintenance, but the only time I laid linoleum in a house I said "never again".

Having said that, am I missing something? I'll be doing this myself, rather than writing a check, so installation is a big deal in my decision making process.

 

[SFS]

Since this will be my first attempt at soles, the slippery question is still an important one. If the final coat on marine ply is something like varnish or Cetol, how slippery is that? If we dont care about color, paint is an option, but how slippery is that?

 

[woodster]

i used helmsman spar urethane on my teak and holly it it is just fine

 

[The Garbone]

Used vinyl peal and stick planking in our old 27. Slickish when wet but that is what hand holds are for. Fellow on C30 board just did the peal and stick but cut it into 2" strips and used caulk as grout lines. Looks very nice and probably less slip prone.

 

[pateco]

I'm about to begin putting new soles in my 1983 H31. I am seriously considering Starboard rather than wood in order to reduce the upkeep factor. I've searched the archives (though you can imagine how often the word "starboard" is used in posts), and haven't found much, except this quote from DianaOfBurlington, in a thread about Plasteak above decks:

"....Vinyl siding is chalky paste in about 15 years. I'd venture the same timeframe for these polypropylene fake-wood products as well (including Starboard, which both loves mold and faints under UV)."

Has anyone redone cabin soles in Starboard (or an equivalent competitor's product)? Any feedback on how well it worked/works? Is it slippery when wet? Does it attract mold?

Any feedback is appreciated.

Due to a leak in my Hot water heater, I have some Teak and holly sole that needs replacing as well. (galley & 1/4 berth). However, on my 1983 Hunter 31, this is going to require removing some of the cabinetry as it goes over sections of the sole. Have you tried to get the old sole out yet?

 

[kito]

Used vinyl peal and stick planking in our old 27. Slickish when wet but that is what hand holds are for. Fellow on C30 board just did the peal and stick but cut it into 2" strips and used caulk as grout lines. Looks very nice and probably less slip prone.

Another advantage I found using the self stick tile/grout method is it forms to all the curves and angles of the floor....unlike plywood.

 

[SFS]

Due to a leak in my Hot water heater, I have some Teak and holly sole that needs replacing as well. (galley & 1/4 berth). However, on my 1983 Hunter 31, this is going to require removing some of the cabinetry as it goes over sections of the sole. Have you tried to get the old sole out yet?

I have not yet started on that Chip, but I have spoken on the phone with HMT2, and he has done so. I know he took out the nav station, which is where I will start, as the worst sole right now is the quarter berth.

From what I've read in researching this topic, a lot of people cut the soles out from under the cabinetry, to avoid all the extra work. I don't know how they get new pieces back under, or whether they just take the new material to the edge and call it good enough. I'd like to use the old pieces as templates where possible, so I'd like to take them out intact. That will also let me measure the thickness of the material, which according to HMT2, varies from location to location.

You've got my phone number, call me if you want to talk about this.

 

[agprice22]

Any HDPE will scar and mar easily. Dirt will get ground into it easily. It is also slippery, cannot easily be glued, painted, etc. i would not recommend any HDPE board product.
I made handrails, sliders, trim, swinging hatches, and crib boards out of HDPE products: King Starboard and Plasteak. It is good for these uses. It is too soft for flooring. IMHO.