Cabin Side Windows

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Ron5058

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Mar 12, 2004
25
Hunter 33_77-83 New Port Richey, FL
Modern Plastics link

For the previous link to Modern Plastics, remove the http at the beginning of the url. Or use the one below and then click "Buy Now" at the top of the screen
 
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Hugh289

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Jun 10, 2004
22
- - New Bern, NC
In another brilliant move, I decided on the spur of the moment to remove the fixed side windows from my H-30 because the plexiglass was clouded and crazed. Now I can't find a supplier for new ones. Does anyone have an idea?
 
B

Bob

Plastics Source

Here is a link for plastics, you could purchase a sheet and make your own as long as the frames are still good
 
B

Bob

Replacement Plastic

If that link I sent doesn't work search for modern plastics online store.
 
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jcherubini

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Jan 22, 2003
744
Hunter 25_73-83 Burlington NJ
Lexan or Lucite

For new windows I merely went to a commercial/retail plastics supplier and browsed their scrap bins. It was actually a fun day seeing what they sell and make out of plastic. I wanted 3/8" for the foredeck hatch and settled for 1/2" at the same price (all they had to cut it from). For the smoke-grey side windows I found 3/16" (for the small forward ones) and 1/4" (for the longer ones). I used the aluminium trim rings as templates and just cut them out and sanded them last week. If you can cut straight with a jigsaw or bandsaw it'll really help. Go fast and use a semi-coarse blade as it gets really ugly if you let it heat up too much because the plastic will melt back together behind your cut. Even though I cut them about a pencil-line too big all round it wasn't that easy sanding them to fair on the shop belt sander. The boat originally had aluminium frames with much thinner Plexiglas fitted with a (now wasted) gasket, but I opted to replace each whole assembly with one piece of plastic for a cleaner black-and-white look. (Be respectful of my dad's design and be sure to cut them out in the shape they're supposed to be.) I am investigating having some stainless-steel trim rings made that will dress off the outer edge of the plastic and add stiffness, inside and out, to a pretty flimsy cabinside. Some other H25 Mk-1 people have said they might want these too so I'll have the stainless guy keep patterns. I drilled the plastic out for the same holes as the aluminium frames had and 'for now' am installing them with #6 screws with finish washers on the outside and lock nuts on the inside. Later I will replace the machine screws with self-tapping screws when I make the trim rings for the inside out of 1/2" birch plywood (leftover from the table) finished with epoxy and Captain's Varnish. Should look pretty cool. This is not something to lose a lot of sweat over. Lexan is infinitely preferable to Lucite because it is less likely to break and will stand a lot more flexing, but it can be considered overkill on a boat that is not crossing oceans and Plexi is a fraction of its cost (like half or a third). Be sure to not strip off the windows' protective paper/film until seconds before you actually install them-- I am even scribing the paper on the inside and only stripping off the paper where the 5200 will go in order to keep the windows protected till next season starts. Instead of 5200 3M recommends using 4200 which has half the tensile strength and is intended to be 'removable'. But remember the plastic windows do add stiffness to the cabinside and they ought to be considered a structural part. That means bedding with silicone or anything without a truly adhesive chemical bond should be out of the question. JC 2 cherubiniyachts@aol.com
 
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Bob

Plastics confusion

JC-2 I am a little confused about your side window configuration, did you use the aluminum trim rings without the rubber gasket, or did you in some way shape or form glass the window directly into the hull opening? I just ordered the lexan, and I know its easy to cut with a router and a carbide blade, but I was planning on using the old gaskets over, after they were properly cleaned. They can be split at one end, the new lexan inserted (I think), and resealed with 4000, or 5200. The underlying plywood in the opening seems a bit damp, so I may put a skim coat of glass over it before I reinsert the window(s). I am trying to make everything as original as possible.
 
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jcherubini

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Jan 22, 2003
744
Hunter 25_73-83 Burlington NJ
for Hugh

Hugh, I understand you had the window assemblies with the now-yellowed plastic frames? Mine were not like that-- they were extruded aluminium, cold-rolled into the shape of what my dad drew, fitted with a now-dry (and leaking) gasket like an RV would have and dark-grey smoke Plexiglas. I replaced the whole thing with one piece of Plexi (actually Lucite; same generic thing) and cut it out to the shape of the whole assembly so the profile remains the same. JC
 
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jcherubini

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Jan 22, 2003
744
Hunter 25_73-83 Burlington NJ
for Bob

Bob, the aluminium frames WERE fitted inside the hole cut-outs, but of course they were made to lap over the outside where they received screw-holes and were through-bolted (actually screwed into the wood frames on the inside). I cut out my plastic to the shape of the WHOLE THING-- including the face lapping over the holes, so the profile will remain the same as it was with the window assemblies in it. I'm sorry I don't have pictures now. When this project gets a little further along I will. Some of the boats, the 30 and 27 I guess, had window rings fitted into the opening with NO through-bolting at all. They are a two-piece thing squeezed and clicked together over the fibreglass hole (probably smeared with the dreaded silicone first). The only recourse to you-- if Hunter or someone else cannot supply the original window frames-- is to cut out your Plexi a little bigger all the way round and through-bolt it like that. Mine are only about 5/8 to 3/4 bigger than the hole all the way round-- JUST enough for #6 screws and their trim washers. I drilled the holes first, using the trim ring as a pattern, and then cut them out (to avoid break-out from the drill). If you are careful you can approximate the shape by using a block to scribe round your window frames onto the Plexi. (I trust you have not yet removed the paper!) You do not need the router. What would you ride it along for a guide? The jigsaw or bandsaw, with, as I said, a moderately coarse blade, is the best bet. If you find the plastic welding together after you, you are going too slowly. Get a coarser blade. Cut about the width of a sawblade bigger than the line. The belt-sander, with like 80 grit (believe it or not), will be your best friend. You can polish them off later if you want. Be sure to knock the outside of the edges off with like 100 or 120 so as not to slice open the backs of girls' legs. If you get into a bind, send them to me and I can make them up for you. Been there, done that. ;) JC 2 cherubiniyachts@aol.com
 
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Bob

Thanks JC

Thanks JC, I am not quite there yet, I have the windows out, and the plexi ordered, but they are on my hunney-do list, and its getting longer by the day, but it is is fun, and I cant wait to get it in the water......
 
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Hugh289

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Jun 10, 2004
22
- - New Bern, NC
Thanks JC 2 -- Another option

JC 2 you're right about my original plastic frames, now yellowed and in pieces. (I have to say, they were tight and dry as could be). But I think I have another option at the link below. Bomon makes a specialized window for sail boats, which would be a very elegant solution for me, since I'm also installing stainless steel opening ports. The Boman two piece frame would in fact be similar to my old plastic frame in that the screws tighten to clamp the frame to the cabin wall- except that the Boman frame is made of much heavier aluminum, and uses safty glass. My only hesitancy is the very slight curvature of the cabin. The old Plastic with 1/4" plexi flexed enough to fit fine. I'm going to try and determine whether an absolutely flat glass and frame would work. Any idea? Bomon isn't the only supplier of these windows, but I can't find one who supplies lighter gauge assemblies using say, 3/8 Lexan and heavy plastic or light aluminum clamp frames.
 
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Hugh289

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Jun 10, 2004
22
- - New Bern, NC
Problem solved

I got a call back from Marks Plastics who still have the plans etc for the original Hunter windows. The current model is slightly heavier plexiglass, but otherwise is the same good design as my (now beloved) old windows. I'll paint the white plastic frames an aluminum color to match the repainted toe rail and slap those beautiful babies in there for another 27 years of service. Thanks to all Hugh
 
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Hugh289

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Jun 10, 2004
22
- - New Bern, NC
Not too bad

Basically 175 each plus tax and etc. No real options available, they just still have the original tooling I guess, that they drag out periodically for small orders. He's having me re-measure carefully, including cabin thickness, because he said there is a surprising amount of variance in the actual opening specs in the H-30s of my vintage ( '77), and the new windows can be varied slightly to get a tight fit. Delivery time is only a week or so. Hugh
 
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