Anyone know what the thickness of the flange should be? Slot in the teak rails suggest 1/4” ish? Looking at the hatch, I don’t think this shoul be this thin.
C22 sliding hatch
- Thread starter pcharn01
- Start date
Those flanges wear down over time. You are correct, yours need to be built back up. I wouldn't stand on the hatch until it's been done. Ideally the flanges would be as thick as possible and still easily fit in the teak grooves.
I did mine seven years ago, they're almost due to be done again.
I did mine seven years ago, they're almost due to be done again.
so grind the inside vertical to make room for glass cloth. Lay up several layers then finish last couple of layers with 423?
+1 on @Gene Neill advice for thick as possible-- sadly no profile pic on how thick that I could find in my archives but if you compare the thickness of the aft facing flange of the hatch (the part the teak trim is attached to ) -- double that thickness at least.
Some pics of the creative sculpting I had to do-- most of my edges were actually missing
Some pics of the creative sculpting I had to do-- most of my edges were actually missing
Looks like these hatches are made of an outer shell and inner shell that are bonded together with some type of composite core… looks like polyester and sawdust. The polyester under the gelcoat isn’t that thick. Need to figure out how to get some layers of glass bonded in for structural integrity.
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Ground out the inner shell and composite. Had several issues, the wear through the bottom side of the flange, resin starved fiberglass, and the top shell polling away from the composite core.
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Now laminating glass and epoxy to the outer shell. After this cures, peel off the peel ply and 3 more layers of glass and epoxy to ‘replace’ the inner shell that was ground away.
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7 layers of glass on each side. A little primer to protect from UV, ready for action! Flanges are .250 now.
