From what I read and what I see,most of you use the C.D.I. Furling systems and I guess it is the rigth choice for a fracctional rig. Seems you can fit either ff2 or ff4 .¿Is there a diference besides sizes? Which one would you recomend?
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
D
Dave Royce
FF4BB
I have the CDI FF4 with ball bearings on my 23.5. It may be over kill but have had for three years with no issues.
I have the CDI FF4 with ball bearings on my 23.5. It may be over kill but have had for three years with no issues.
R
Rick Webb
C
crazy dave
move over
I believe the FF4 was used on the 26 due to the wrie size of the forestay. You can use the FF2 on the 260 as you can get the stud thru. The only pain is taking the extrusion that is coiled up and bending it into a circle and tying with a tie wrap leaving it in the sun. You just got to be careful doing that as You can get aniled by it if not holding onto carefully. AThe instructions on the length will suggest cutting off 12 1/4 inches but from experience, use 13 1/2 to 14 inches or the top cap where the halyard line exits will catch the mast and/or the jib halyard. Been working with these rascals ever since they have been on the market. Purchase this unit thru the HOW chandlrey and phill will treat you well. Anymore poop just ring a ding a ling me. Crazy Dave
I believe the FF4 was used on the 26 due to the wrie size of the forestay. You can use the FF2 on the 260 as you can get the stud thru. The only pain is taking the extrusion that is coiled up and bending it into a circle and tying with a tie wrap leaving it in the sun. You just got to be careful doing that as You can get aniled by it if not holding onto carefully. AThe instructions on the length will suggest cutting off 12 1/4 inches but from experience, use 13 1/2 to 14 inches or the top cap where the halyard line exits will catch the mast and/or the jib halyard. Been working with these rascals ever since they have been on the market. Purchase this unit thru the HOW chandlrey and phill will treat you well. Anymore poop just ring a ding a ling me. Crazy Dave
B
Brian
Headstay Tension w/ CDI Furler
The headstay tension on my 260 w/ a CDI appears insufficient. How is headstay tension increased w/ the CDI in place? Is there a turnbuckle inside?
The headstay tension on my 260 w/ a CDI appears insufficient. How is headstay tension increased w/ the CDI in place? Is there a turnbuckle inside?
M
Michael Bell
Yes, but...
There is a turnbuckle inside – but that’s there to change the mast rake. The tension is increased by tightening the side stays. Keep in mind what your doing to the mast bend as you are tightening. If it’s currently correct and you don’t have a tension gauge – you may get by with tightening each side stay a couple of turns. Then check out the tension of the front stay (usually by sailing). By the way, a tension gauge is something that you either want to own, or better yet, your friend in the next slip owns.
There is a turnbuckle inside – but that’s there to change the mast rake. The tension is increased by tightening the side stays. Keep in mind what your doing to the mast bend as you are tightening. If it’s currently correct and you don’t have a tension gauge – you may get by with tightening each side stay a couple of turns. Then check out the tension of the front stay (usually by sailing). By the way, a tension gauge is something that you either want to own, or better yet, your friend in the next slip owns.
M
Mark
No change to head stay length
Once the head stay or furler is set thats where its stays. You do not adjust for tension. The length of the head stay is only for rake. TENSION FOR THE HEADSTAY IS SUPPLIED BY THE SHROUDS. The bend in the mast is made with the reverse diagonals with a slight change to the bend made by the tension on the shrouds.
Once the head stay or furler is set thats where its stays. You do not adjust for tension. The length of the head stay is only for rake. TENSION FOR THE HEADSTAY IS SUPPLIED BY THE SHROUDS. The bend in the mast is made with the reverse diagonals with a slight change to the bend made by the tension on the shrouds.
G
Gerard
headstay tension
When I step my mast on my 26 with CDI furler, I need to loosen the tension on the forestay in order to attach it. The tension on the shrouds is correct according to my Loos gauge and the Crazy Dave method (actually about 2/3 of the recommended Loos tension). The rake is correct and if I don't tighten the forestay, it flops when going to windward. So it is indeed possible in my opinion, that you need to tighten the forestay.
When I step my mast on my 26 with CDI furler, I need to loosen the tension on the forestay in order to attach it. The tension on the shrouds is correct according to my Loos gauge and the Crazy Dave method (actually about 2/3 of the recommended Loos tension). The rake is correct and if I don't tighten the forestay, it flops when going to windward. So it is indeed possible in my opinion, that you need to tighten the forestay.
B
Brian
Mark, Michael
Problem is: Mast is straight side to side, have about 6" rake back, but forestay is still fairly loose, especially in larger wind - can see forestay bowing out to leeward. Boat is slow sailing to windward & thought this might be a contributing factor. I appreciate your responses & want to read more!! Thanks!
Problem is: Mast is straight side to side, have about 6" rake back, but forestay is still fairly loose, especially in larger wind - can see forestay bowing out to leeward. Boat is slow sailing to windward & thought this might be a contributing factor. I appreciate your responses & want to read more!! Thanks!
A
alan
I'll avoid the argument by saying that...
...the headstay may be too long with the CDI unit attached as is has the effect of lenghthing it. alan
...the headstay may be too long with the CDI unit attached as is has the effect of lenghthing it. alan
C
crazy dave
If you have a CDI and afeel that you
If you feel that tightening the headstay is in order, take off the sail first but make sure you have a messenger line attached to furling line when it goes up so you can pull the sail back up. Then pull the ring off the long clevis pin and then slide the drum up. You will then see the turnbuckle. Remove the cotter pins and tighten to your hearts delight. Make sure to replace the cotter pin and then reverse what you have done. Then you can go back and retune the mast. If your upper or outer shrouds are all the way turned down with no room for adjustment, then your rake backwards is too much. Please advise me what you have done and we can go from there. Crazy Dave Condon
If you feel that tightening the headstay is in order, take off the sail first but make sure you have a messenger line attached to furling line when it goes up so you can pull the sail back up. Then pull the ring off the long clevis pin and then slide the drum up. You will then see the turnbuckle. Remove the cotter pins and tighten to your hearts delight. Make sure to replace the cotter pin and then reverse what you have done. Then you can go back and retune the mast. If your upper or outer shrouds are all the way turned down with no room for adjustment, then your rake backwards is too much. Please advise me what you have done and we can go from there. Crazy Dave Condon
- Status
- Not open for further replies.