I'm knee-deep in rehabbing an '81 c22. The backstay seems odd to me however. It's a single cable running to starboard of the mainsheet traveler. No tension adjuster except the turnbuckle. Anyone know if this was common for '81's? I plan to rig a split stay below the penndant and add a tension adjusting system. Any ideas on how to do this simply and quickly? Thanks!
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Typical setup
I believe that this backstay is common for C22s of all ages. It is possible and Catalina Directdoes sell a setup already to go but I believe that it involves cutting a hole at the inside of the cockpit below the port side of the traveler so that you can fasten the bolt for that side of the backstay. I was intigued at one point by a setup where that single backstay turnbuckle is replaceed and made adjustable through a wheel adjuster.
I believe that this backstay is common for C22s of all ages. It is possible and Catalina Directdoes sell a setup already to go but I believe that it involves cutting a hole at the inside of the cockpit below the port side of the traveler so that you can fasten the bolt for that side of the backstay. I was intigued at one point by a setup where that single backstay turnbuckle is replaceed and made adjustable through a wheel adjuster.
not exactly correct
There is no need to cut any holes in the cockpit to add the adjustable back-stay. You do need to watch where you drill the hole though. If memory serves me the brass bar stock embedded at the top of the transom is 5" long. All you need do is measure it to the exact place the eye bolt is on the opposite side and you'll be fine. Just remember to drill the hole so you can tap the 1/2" threads, I believe we use a 27/64" bit. I have installed several of these and have yet to cut any holes in the boat. One of the advantages of buying the kit form CD is they provide the eye bolt, we priced this kit out once and unless they have raised the price a lot you can't really save much by buying it piece meal. Its and easy install and one of the three important upgrades. The other two, Vang and Outhaul (install it in the boom) Good luck.
There is no need to cut any holes in the cockpit to add the adjustable back-stay. You do need to watch where you drill the hole though. If memory serves me the brass bar stock embedded at the top of the transom is 5" long. All you need do is measure it to the exact place the eye bolt is on the opposite side and you'll be fine. Just remember to drill the hole so you can tap the 1/2" threads, I believe we use a 27/64" bit. I have installed several of these and have yet to cut any holes in the boat. One of the advantages of buying the kit form CD is they provide the eye bolt, we priced this kit out once and unless they have raised the price a lot you can't really save much by buying it piece meal. Its and easy install and one of the three important upgrades. The other two, Vang and Outhaul (install it in the boom) Good luck.
Ken
I don't doubt your accuracy as I've never done this but I have seen this on the internet: http://catalina22fleet20.home.comcast.net/news/rpts/200006/200006.htm where it states aout 3/4 of the way down: "Catalina Direct "Several different materials have been used as backing plates for the [eyebolts] inside of the transom. Early boats had plywood, later boats had a piece of hardwood. Eventually all problems were solved by using bronze plate across the top of the transom." "Gain access through the vertical surface of the inside of the cockpit. We use a hole saw to cut a clean hole. Saw the hole directly below the [eyebolt]. Now you can reach in with an end wrench to tighten the [nut]." "Any small stainless plate will work to cover the hole. For a clean job that won't have a negative impact on your resale value, we cover the holes with small, louvered, stainless steel plates." Since I had to drill a hole anyway for the eyebolt, I started with a 1/4" bit. This pilot hole helped with drilling the final hole, and it allowed me to discovery whether there was wood or bronze laminated into my transom. Much to my relief I found bronze which meant I could tap the bronze plate with threads to accept the eyebolt (one of the options listed in the instructions that came with the kit)."
I don't doubt your accuracy as I've never done this but I have seen this on the internet: http://catalina22fleet20.home.comcast.net/news/rpts/200006/200006.htm where it states aout 3/4 of the way down: "Catalina Direct "Several different materials have been used as backing plates for the [eyebolts] inside of the transom. Early boats had plywood, later boats had a piece of hardwood. Eventually all problems were solved by using bronze plate across the top of the transom." "Gain access through the vertical surface of the inside of the cockpit. We use a hole saw to cut a clean hole. Saw the hole directly below the [eyebolt]. Now you can reach in with an end wrench to tighten the [nut]." "Any small stainless plate will work to cover the hole. For a clean job that won't have a negative impact on your resale value, we cover the holes with small, louvered, stainless steel plates." Since I had to drill a hole anyway for the eyebolt, I started with a 1/4" bit. This pilot hole helped with drilling the final hole, and it allowed me to discovery whether there was wood or bronze laminated into my transom. Much to my relief I found bronze which meant I could tap the bronze plate with threads to accept the eyebolt (one of the options listed in the instructions that came with the kit)."
Maybe
Before you are so quick to give advise on what you haven't done you should say you have only read what others have done. Its true that there were some early boats with wood in the top of the transoms. That was very early boats, by 1971 we found them to have the brass bar, so by then the wood was stopped, now? how far back were they made? Matt asked about a 1981, BTW the exact SAME year as my own boat. I think I KNOW something about this model boat, and guess what? I didn't read it on someones website. Is it true that CD advises butchering the boat? YES, They also sell the covers and make money doing it. Its in there interest to advise this. I WILL NOT pass out information on something I know nothing about! I completely rebuilt my own boat and have helped rebuild several others. My information comes from experience, not reading what someone else did and how they took short cuts to get a project finished.
Before you are so quick to give advise on what you haven't done you should say you have only read what others have done. Its true that there were some early boats with wood in the top of the transoms. That was very early boats, by 1971 we found them to have the brass bar, so by then the wood was stopped, now? how far back were they made? Matt asked about a 1981, BTW the exact SAME year as my own boat. I think I KNOW something about this model boat, and guess what? I didn't read it on someones website. Is it true that CD advises butchering the boat? YES, They also sell the covers and make money doing it. Its in there interest to advise this. I WILL NOT pass out information on something I know nothing about! I completely rebuilt my own boat and have helped rebuild several others. My information comes from experience, not reading what someone else did and how they took short cuts to get a project finished.
Ken and Bilbo
Thanks, guys - all good stuff. (Nice pun there, Bilbo!) I see where CD sells "blind" kits for installing the new stay anchor. The last thing I want to do is butcher the boat with an unecessary hole. I'll let you know how it turns out. I may wait 'til winter to deal with it.
Thanks, guys - all good stuff. (Nice pun there, Bilbo!) I see where CD sells "blind" kits for installing the new stay anchor. The last thing I want to do is butcher the boat with an unecessary hole. I'll let you know how it turns out. I may wait 'til winter to deal with it.
By the Way
Ken, I reread your first post and it dawned on me that there isn't an outhaul for the main - the vang is on the to-do list already. I'm currently sailing a Windrose 22 and plan to snatch that vang as well as my Harken furler before I sell that boat. Thanks for bringing the outhaul to my attention and saving me discovering the hard way at commissioning time.
Ken, I reread your first post and it dawned on me that there isn't an outhaul for the main - the vang is on the to-do list already. I'm currently sailing a Windrose 22 and plan to snatch that vang as well as my Harken furler before I sell that boat. Thanks for bringing the outhaul to my attention and saving me discovering the hard way at commissioning time.
Backstay questions
Good to see this topic. I just bought a replacement backstay for my 1971 boat. Mine has the "a-shaped" cable for the backstay tension adjustment. The stay that I bought did say it was for boats < 1985 so I figured it would fit. It ends up that it is longer than mine, and the boom hanging cable seems to split off about where I would cut the stay and put a loop on it for the right lenght if I just cut and modify this one. Anyone know if this is the only option or could I return this for the correct one? This has a loop for the top of the mast which fits fine, but the bottom has threads for a turnbuckle, but I would have to shorten it, bend the end around one of those loop forming thing and crimp it together - hopefully this makes sense, I'll post a photo if not. Tom Catalina 22 #881 1971
Good to see this topic. I just bought a replacement backstay for my 1971 boat. Mine has the "a-shaped" cable for the backstay tension adjustment. The stay that I bought did say it was for boats < 1985 so I figured it would fit. It ends up that it is longer than mine, and the boom hanging cable seems to split off about where I would cut the stay and put a loop on it for the right lenght if I just cut and modify this one. Anyone know if this is the only option or could I return this for the correct one? This has a loop for the top of the mast which fits fine, but the bottom has threads for a turnbuckle, but I would have to shorten it, bend the end around one of those loop forming thing and crimp it together - hopefully this makes sense, I'll post a photo if not. Tom Catalina 22 #881 1971
Something for more purchase
When I changed my backstay, I took the backstay to a rigging shop in Sandusky, OH and had them shorten the backstay and put a loop on the end so I could add hardware. I changed the backstay to something adjustable so I could control the shape of the mainsail in heavy weather. If you change the backstay to an adjustable, you need to be aware of what your rig will handle in heavy weather. Adjusting the backstay too much could cause rig failure. I suggest that you contact someone in your area and talk to them about how you could change the backstay for your boat.
When I changed my backstay, I took the backstay to a rigging shop in Sandusky, OH and had them shorten the backstay and put a loop on the end so I could add hardware. I changed the backstay to something adjustable so I could control the shape of the mainsail in heavy weather. If you change the backstay to an adjustable, you need to be aware of what your rig will handle in heavy weather. Adjusting the backstay too much could cause rig failure. I suggest that you contact someone in your area and talk to them about how you could change the backstay for your boat.
Mast vs. Fractional
More good stuff. My current boat-in-the-water is a fractional rig, so backstay adjustment is evn more critical than on my C22. I'll need to consider the heavy weather handling differences masthead vs. fractional once the new adjustable stay is on the C22......but i digress.....thanks to one and all. Great info!
More good stuff. My current boat-in-the-water is a fractional rig, so backstay adjustment is evn more critical than on my C22. I'll need to consider the heavy weather handling differences masthead vs. fractional once the new adjustable stay is on the C22......but i digress.....thanks to one and all. Great info!
backstay rigging
Take a look as this. http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=659
Take a look as this. http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=659
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