Thanks to everyone who has helped me with my engine problem. I have a new list of things I will check when I go down this week. One of the things I will attemp to review is whether the problem is in the Racor or the priming bulb I installed. To do this I will bypass both and lead the fuel hose directly from the fuel tank to the fuel pump on the engine. If I don't get the loss of RPM's or any stalling I will then at least have pinpointed where the problem lies. Is there anything I should be concerned about if I do this test? Is there any time limit I should adhere to before doing any damage to the engine? I assume not but I wanted to get second opinions. Thanks again, Joe Mullee
Bypassing The Racor
- Thread starter Joe Mullee
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No problem .....
No problem at all other than 'challenging' the engine 'guard' filter with possible debris. The Racors, with the engine mounted 'guard' filter in place, are only for life extention and prefiltration to the final/guard. The Guard is either a 10µM or 2µM if the cartrige in it is OEM Yanmar. A few gallons throughput for your 'test' isnt going to make any difference. There IS another way ..... simply shut off the valve on your tank and run the engine to stall, etc. then open your fuel line sequentially ... looking for air. If you have an air leak, the engine will draw extreme vacuum that will 'suck-in' air at the leak. Only downside is if you have a weak lift pump you can break the diaphragm .... or discover that the lift pump was the problem in the first place. Of course, you will have to bleed the *entire* system before you re-start.
No problem at all other than 'challenging' the engine 'guard' filter with possible debris. The Racors, with the engine mounted 'guard' filter in place, are only for life extention and prefiltration to the final/guard. The Guard is either a 10µM or 2µM if the cartrige in it is OEM Yanmar. A few gallons throughput for your 'test' isnt going to make any difference. There IS another way ..... simply shut off the valve on your tank and run the engine to stall, etc. then open your fuel line sequentially ... looking for air. If you have an air leak, the engine will draw extreme vacuum that will 'suck-in' air at the leak. Only downside is if you have a weak lift pump you can break the diaphragm .... or discover that the lift pump was the problem in the first place. Of course, you will have to bleed the *entire* system before you re-start.
May I suggest
May I suggest that instead of doing it this way, since you are going to have to break a fuel line anyway. Break the line at the inlet to the lift pump, attach another line and lead it to a jerry can with a couple gallons of fuel in it. If you have no problems with this, replace and attach the fuel line to the inlet of the Racor. Now you have your answer. If it now stalls, you have a problem with the Racor or squeeze bulb. If not the answer lies in the tank, either the vent of the tank pickup. Of course there is the slim chance it is a fuel line, but thats pretty slim.
May I suggest that instead of doing it this way, since you are going to have to break a fuel line anyway. Break the line at the inlet to the lift pump, attach another line and lead it to a jerry can with a couple gallons of fuel in it. If you have no problems with this, replace and attach the fuel line to the inlet of the Racor. Now you have your answer. If it now stalls, you have a problem with the Racor or squeeze bulb. If not the answer lies in the tank, either the vent of the tank pickup. Of course there is the slim chance it is a fuel line, but thats pretty slim.
Engine test
Joe If you double up on your mooring lines you should be able to run the engine in gear while still tied to the dock. Good luck Richard
Joe If you double up on your mooring lines you should be able to run the engine in gear while still tied to the dock. Good luck Richard
Thanks For The Ideas
I'm heading down this afternoon and will try to figure this out between today and all day tommorow. I have a list in order of what I will check. Thanks for adding to it. What a great site! Joe Mullee
I'm heading down this afternoon and will try to figure this out between today and all day tommorow. I have a list in order of what I will check. Thanks for adding to it. What a great site! Joe Mullee
Good Luck
Good luck Joe, hope you find it quickly. Doubling the dock lines and running the boat at the dock would certainly be a time saver.
Good luck Joe, hope you find it quickly. Doubling the dock lines and running the boat at the dock would certainly be a time saver.
air leak
If you haven't left for the boat yet; disconnect the fuel line from the tank and from the lift pump. Seal off one end with some plastic tape and silicone and adapt your dink air pump down to the other end with whatever will work; pieces of tubing, hose or whatever. Pressurize the pump and fuel line, and go over it with a little soapy water. Bubbles will show where the leak is and no water will enter because of the pressure.
If you haven't left for the boat yet; disconnect the fuel line from the tank and from the lift pump. Seal off one end with some plastic tape and silicone and adapt your dink air pump down to the other end with whatever will work; pieces of tubing, hose or whatever. Pressurize the pump and fuel line, and go over it with a little soapy water. Bubbles will show where the leak is and no water will enter because of the pressure.
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