Bypass hose for a Seaward Waterheater

[sailcapt340]

How do you by pass the Seaward 600 Water-heater when you winterize?
I am currently in the process of changing out all my potable water lines and would like to install a permanent bypass system for the water heater on my 2000 340.
I have all the new PEX lines run through the boat now so I have the perfect opportunity to install a bypass system.
Has anyone done this, do you have photos?
Thanks for the any help.

 

[Rich Stidger]

I don't bypass and fill the lines with the pink stuff. Instead I blow out all the lines with air from my dinghy pump and pump out the water heater from the bottom drain with a drill pump. Fast, easy, inexpensive. Never a problem in 17 years.

 

[sailcapt340]

Rich,
I also have blown out the lines each year. I have a small compressor fitted with a cone shaped nozzle that fits completely into the ends of, what was the original tubing, and blow out the water.
The reason I ask about the bypass is.
After running the new lines (15mm PEX), I found that on my 2000 340, the lines that run from the water pump and heater, over to the head actually go in a sort of reverse "S" shape. They go around the bilge area then up slightly to a very small wire chase opening ( barely fitting all the wires and hose through it). Then down slightly to an opening under the transom and finally ending up in the cabinet under the head sink.
I found that there are two small dips that could accumulate water and freeze.
It's those areas I'm really concerned about, given all the work of "inching" the new lines through.
This part of the job was the worst area to get new lines through. Now that I have all the new hosing roughed in I'm in a perfect position to revamp a little.
I didn't think our hand pumps could pump enough air through to completely blow out the lines, but like you said, no problems in 17 years. And I haven't had any in 15, maybe I'm overthinking this.
Thanks for the input.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

After running the new lines (15mm PEX), I found that on my 2000 340, the lines that run from the water pump and heater, over to the head actually go in a sort of reverse "S" shape. They go around the bilge area then up slightly to a very small wire chase opening ( barely fitting all the wires and hose through it). Then down slightly to an opening under the transom and finally ending up in the cabinet under the head sink.
I found that there are two small dips that could accumulate water and freeze.
It's those areas I'm really concerned about, given all the work of "inching" the new lines through.

Any reason you couldn't install quick connects that'll let you drain those areas?

 

[Rich Stidger]

Rich,
I also have blown out the lines each year. I have a small compressor fitted with a cone shaped nozzle that fits completely into the ends of, what was the original tubing, and blow out the water.
The reason I ask about the bypass is.
After running the new lines (15mm PEX), I found that on my 2000 340, the lines that run from the water pump and heater, over to the head actually go in a sort of reverse "S" shape. They go around the bilge area then up slightly to a very small wire chase opening ( barely fitting all the wires and hose through it). Then down slightly to an opening under the transom and finally ending up in the cabinet under the head sink.
I found that there are two small dips that could accumulate water and freeze.
It's those areas I'm really concerned about, given all the work of "inching" the new lines through.
This part of the job was the worst area to get new lines through. Now that I have all the new hosing roughed in I'm in a perfect position to revamp a little.
I didn't think our hand pumps could pump enough air through to completely blow out the lines, but like you said, no problems in 17 years. And I haven't had any in 15, maybe I'm overthinking this.
Thanks for the input.

I think you are over-thinking. Even if you have a dip that has some water in it, the freeze danger is if the vessel (in this case some tubing) is solidly filled so that there is no room to expand. A hose with a dip doesn't meet this criteria because the two ends are open or empty. Besides that, I really think that blowing the tubing out will remove all but the smallest amount of water. The air pressure won't just "bubble" through the hose, it will pretty much clean it out.

But don't believe me. Take a piece of tubing that you have left over, put a couple dips in it and blow it out with your pump. Then see how much water is left. I'm betting that it is an insignificant amount.

After I pump out my HW tank, I am sure there is a half inch of water in the bottom that will freeze, but it won't expand to cause any damage because the rest of the tank is empty. Ditto for the supply tanks as well.

 

[sailcapt340]

Peggy,
I did think of that, but ruled it's out as it involves removing the largest section of the sole (6' + x 1 1/2 wide) each time. Also, the only area available to possibly install a disconnect under the sole is so compact and surrounded by a the wiring harness. It really isn't very user friendly in there.
To say the least, I am really glad that the running of the new lines is a job behind me now.

 

[sailcapt340]

Good point Rich

Thanks to you and Peggy for getting back to me.
The job is so labor intensive, just the roughing in of the new lines. That's why I'm being so cautious with the new lines...don't want to redo this anytime soon.
If the PEX fittings made a clean out fitting it would make the whole thing a non issue. But right now they only make a shutoff inline fitting, which really isn't going to help much.

 

[quadrille38]

If you want a water heater bypass kit Defender sells them.
All pex and easy to install.
I put one in a couple of years ago.

Other than the sacrifice of a knuckle or two (hey we measure successful boat projects in the number of scraped knuckles right?) it was easy to install.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Peggy,
I did think of that, but ruled it's out as it involves removing the largest section of the sole (6' + x 1 1/2 wide) each time.

If it were my boat, I'd turn that into two hatches (one would be too heavy to be practical)....in fact, I did! Boat builders don't install hatches because they cost a little more than plain flooring, but there's nothing sacrosanct about it or anything else builders leave out...and opening up access to the bilges is one of the best "upgrades" you can do. It's not hard to do or expensive.

 

[sailcapt340]

Like Minds...

Peggy,
Right after I posted my last entry I got to thinking...why not make that flooring 2 pieces. It would eliminate the awkwardness and the weight issue.
I now have a winter project.

 

[Capt jgw]

I just disconnect the lines from the heater and connect together with a coupling. Mark which one goes where so you can put them back in the Spring. With the lines off the heater will drain itself. A little water will be left inside but it has lots of room to expand.

 

[sailcapt340]

Job Completed

Thought you would like to know the job of running all new potable water lines is completed...
I switched from the original 1/2 inch tubing to 15mm PEX tubing and fittings. All in all, it went somewhat smoothly, the pulling of new lines through the boat has a lot to be desired.
There are quite a few dips and turns the lines follow that are not visible to the naked eye, and the lines always seem to find the one spot to hang up in those areas.
What I did was actually sew the old and new lines together by drilling small holes in each and tying with good waxed line. That worked far better than a barbed fitting into each line. It held together through all the pushing and pulling that was needed. One thing you don't want is to lose the tubing somewhere in a stringer area.
If I have any words of advice it would be take your time with this project, it will require patience.
I had one fitting (15mm x1/2 inch female), all total I needed 9, that was faulty. It just didn't grab the tubing and hold fast.
I found this out after charging the system with water pressure. That sprayed a lot of water and stopped the job dead in its tracks. I had to find another Whale Fitting, fortunately West Marine had 1 ! I suggest Whale Fittings by far.
So if you do decide to do this job, have a lot of patience and buy an extra fitting or two, just in case.
They can always be brought back and for some reason the trip to return an item is shorter and easier than a trip to find the same item.
Good luck with and if you need any guidance just ask.

As for the cabin sole project...that's for another day and another time...I'm Going Sailing!