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That's - wait, this - is an all-time record
I don't believe we've ever had 100 posts in a thread before. As you can see, the site isn't even designed for that. Well, if ever there was a fitting candidate, this would be it. Anybody dare to try a word count?
I don't believe we've ever had 100 posts in a thread before. As you can see, the site isn't even designed for that. Well, if ever there was a fitting candidate, this would be it. Anybody dare to try a word count?
Blame Bernie, no hunter, no yous guys
I figure that NOT counting this post there is about 18936 words give or take a couple. Man yous guys can write.
I figure that NOT counting this post there is about 18936 words give or take a couple. Man yous guys can write.
Response to Bernie - My 260
It appears we are going to get our "second" boat fixed and not get a third. This is probably just well, since all the "extras" had already been installed. It is down at the fiberglass shop as of today, but I doubt it will be fixed until early next week. I'll let you know how it turns out. How does the fix look on yours? Are you pleased with what you see? Jim
It appears we are going to get our "second" boat fixed and not get a third. This is probably just well, since all the "extras" had already been installed. It is down at the fiberglass shop as of today, but I doubt it will be fixed until early next week. I'll let you know how it turns out. How does the fix look on yours? Are you pleased with what you see? Jim
102, 3??
I've never bought a new one, so haven't had the Dealer/Factory experience. But, I've owned 3 Hunters. 26.5, 30, and 35.5. Yep I liked them. When I've called Hunter, I've always been treated very well in spite of being a "used" buyer. All I've talked to have been helpful. All of which makes it hard for me to understand the no response policy you state they have with respect to these postings. They obviously have a problem. I can't believe they can't address it without causing themselves legal problems. As hard as I try not to be, I am sensitive to the attitude about my boat displayed by owners of the "better" brands. We don't need justification of the attitude in any form. I would expect Hunter to fix this problem in a manner that would allow them to use it in their advertising literature.
I've never bought a new one, so haven't had the Dealer/Factory experience. But, I've owned 3 Hunters. 26.5, 30, and 35.5. Yep I liked them. When I've called Hunter, I've always been treated very well in spite of being a "used" buyer. All I've talked to have been helpful. All of which makes it hard for me to understand the no response policy you state they have with respect to these postings. They obviously have a problem. I can't believe they can't address it without causing themselves legal problems. As hard as I try not to be, I am sensitive to the attitude about my boat displayed by owners of the "better" brands. We don't need justification of the attitude in any form. I would expect Hunter to fix this problem in a manner that would allow them to use it in their advertising literature.
Water check
Alan, Responding to water on top of the water tank lid, sometimes it is very difficult to find leaks. May I suggest the following: 1. Put 1 gallon of red or pink lemonad mix into tank and fill with water. if it is tank, you will see the color flavored lemonade. 2. Next, look at wing nut to see if you have a gasket under the washer and if not replace. Make sure drain bail plug is tight by turning it. 3. Look at the base of compression post. Not only do you need to caulk around the bolt head, you need to look at the compression plate that sits on top of the fiber glass and if you suspect any openings or crevices between the plate and fiberglass, take you finger and work in 5200 but the area has to be dry. Also, look at the base of the compression post to see if any holes. There will be two with one in back and one in front. If there are no screws in them, put # 10 with 24 thread size and again caulk the threads with 5200. 4.Look at the transom specificall the hull to deck joint to make sure there are no splits. Also, underneath on bottom of hull you will find a screw that holds the base plate of mast carrier pole. Make sure you dab a little of caulk over screw head. 5.Check any add ons that are thru hull below water line. 6.By now you have eliminated any water coming thru hull below water line. The quickest way to find out if it is the transom, gasket underneath the washer or compression post in either the 26 or 260 is to add weight. Get about 6-8 folks and first stand in the rear, then middle and front. This is what I told Hunter when looking for leaks and guess what they found it. Regarding the Hatchboards, generally, the most leaks occur from not a long enough piece of wood on the top back portion of the slider and/or lack of caulk between the board and the lexan. You will have to remove the slider hatch and check the piece of wood. It needs to be the edge of the lexan at both ends and while at it, remove and caulk entire length. Also check for leaks under the front piece of wood or handle. Hope this helps and I pray this thread will cease and we can get along to other matters Crazy Dave
Alan, Responding to water on top of the water tank lid, sometimes it is very difficult to find leaks. May I suggest the following: 1. Put 1 gallon of red or pink lemonad mix into tank and fill with water. if it is tank, you will see the color flavored lemonade. 2. Next, look at wing nut to see if you have a gasket under the washer and if not replace. Make sure drain bail plug is tight by turning it. 3. Look at the base of compression post. Not only do you need to caulk around the bolt head, you need to look at the compression plate that sits on top of the fiber glass and if you suspect any openings or crevices between the plate and fiberglass, take you finger and work in 5200 but the area has to be dry. Also, look at the base of the compression post to see if any holes. There will be two with one in back and one in front. If there are no screws in them, put # 10 with 24 thread size and again caulk the threads with 5200. 4.Look at the transom specificall the hull to deck joint to make sure there are no splits. Also, underneath on bottom of hull you will find a screw that holds the base plate of mast carrier pole. Make sure you dab a little of caulk over screw head. 5.Check any add ons that are thru hull below water line. 6.By now you have eliminated any water coming thru hull below water line. The quickest way to find out if it is the transom, gasket underneath the washer or compression post in either the 26 or 260 is to add weight. Get about 6-8 folks and first stand in the rear, then middle and front. This is what I told Hunter when looking for leaks and guess what they found it. Regarding the Hatchboards, generally, the most leaks occur from not a long enough piece of wood on the top back portion of the slider and/or lack of caulk between the board and the lexan. You will have to remove the slider hatch and check the piece of wood. It needs to be the edge of the lexan at both ends and while at it, remove and caulk entire length. Also check for leaks under the front piece of wood or handle. Hope this helps and I pray this thread will cease and we can get along to other matters Crazy Dave
Dear Dave
Thanks for the detailed reply. You told me that stuff in March or April and everything checked out. What I was trying to say was that it was prpobably water trapped on top of the ballast tank and not a leak. The same condition Bernie was talking about after his boat was repaired. It may have entered when the boat was launched or from a previous year. I did dye the tank but the suspect water was never red although I think salt water eats food coloring as the ballast tank was not red after a day. The compression post area had a tad of rust but was always dry even after heeling 25 plus degrees in 2-4 foot waves on either side. The rubber washer under the ballast tank control is missing but I placed paper towels aroud it and they were never wet. I will check the bolt under the hull as a matter of maintenance when hauled for the season. Thanks much again. Alan P.S. WHY did they place a rub rail at the waterline that needs through the hull screws????????????????????????
Thanks for the detailed reply. You told me that stuff in March or April and everything checked out. What I was trying to say was that it was prpobably water trapped on top of the ballast tank and not a leak. The same condition Bernie was talking about after his boat was repaired. It may have entered when the boat was launched or from a previous year. I did dye the tank but the suspect water was never red although I think salt water eats food coloring as the ballast tank was not red after a day. The compression post area had a tad of rust but was always dry even after heeling 25 plus degrees in 2-4 foot waves on either side. The rubber washer under the ballast tank control is missing but I placed paper towels aroud it and they were never wet. I will check the bolt under the hull as a matter of maintenance when hauled for the season. Thanks much again. Alan P.S. WHY did they place a rub rail at the waterline that needs through the hull screws????????????????????????
Thanks, Bernie!
First, I am happy that the repairs to your boat have been successful! I also have a H260 on which I took delivery about a year ago. Mine was DRY. Second, amid the concern about your boat, some may have failed to notice your other posting in the Photo Forum about the rudder-to-motor connection. We both did our homework before ordering our boats, but you obviously went farther than I did. I also have wheel steering and a Mercury 9.9 Bigfoot outboard. When mine was delivered, we had to put her in my slip along the Lewes to Rehoboth Bay canal in Delaware. When the tide is running, parts of the canal resemble one of our Pennsylvania trout streams, the tidal current is THAT bad. My dealer recommended a rudder-to-motor connection or a tiller on the outboard. There have been other postings on the Forum on this subject, but yours is about the best I have seen for the equipment we have on our boats. I have printed your posting from the Photo Forum (the third photo did not transmit too well) and I will be showing it to the people at my boatyard and/or machine shop in the hope that they can duplicate what you have done. I'll let you know how it turns out. Again, many thanks! Good luck with your new boat and happy sailing! Ralph C. Regar S/V Shambala
First, I am happy that the repairs to your boat have been successful! I also have a H260 on which I took delivery about a year ago. Mine was DRY. Second, amid the concern about your boat, some may have failed to notice your other posting in the Photo Forum about the rudder-to-motor connection. We both did our homework before ordering our boats, but you obviously went farther than I did. I also have wheel steering and a Mercury 9.9 Bigfoot outboard. When mine was delivered, we had to put her in my slip along the Lewes to Rehoboth Bay canal in Delaware. When the tide is running, parts of the canal resemble one of our Pennsylvania trout streams, the tidal current is THAT bad. My dealer recommended a rudder-to-motor connection or a tiller on the outboard. There have been other postings on the Forum on this subject, but yours is about the best I have seen for the equipment we have on our boats. I have printed your posting from the Photo Forum (the third photo did not transmit too well) and I will be showing it to the people at my boatyard and/or machine shop in the hope that they can duplicate what you have done. I'll let you know how it turns out. Again, many thanks! Good luck with your new boat and happy sailing! Ralph C. Regar S/V Shambala
Ralph Regar
Thanks for your kind words. I still have one problem that I have not solved that does not seem to be a problem for you although you are using the same engine. If you have a few minutes, I have some questions to ask that may help me. My 9.9 bigfoot is able to push the boat at hull speed, but does not get above 2000 rpm. To keep the engine from working too hard, it should really be running between 4500-5000 at hull speed. I have the lowest pitch prop that Mercury makes for the 9.9HP 4-stroke bigfoot (10 3/8 x 9.5). I have been talking with a prop shop and they can take a Mercury 4-stroke non-bigfoot prop that has a pitch as low as 5 and replace the hub rubber and spline socket with the size that fits the bigfoot shaft. I also have the extra long shaft engine (25inches) which some say may be affecting the rpms (but that really doesn't make sense to me). So I am also considering raising the engine mount bracket, My questions are these: what pitch prop do you have? what length shaft? and what is your wide open throttle rpm while in gear? I would grealy appreciate any information you can pass on. I have talked to technical people at Mercury, Michigan Wheel Propellers, and Comprop and the only answer they come up with is that the lower pitch props for the bigfoot will probably start coming out in about a year. Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your kind words. I still have one problem that I have not solved that does not seem to be a problem for you although you are using the same engine. If you have a few minutes, I have some questions to ask that may help me. My 9.9 bigfoot is able to push the boat at hull speed, but does not get above 2000 rpm. To keep the engine from working too hard, it should really be running between 4500-5000 at hull speed. I have the lowest pitch prop that Mercury makes for the 9.9HP 4-stroke bigfoot (10 3/8 x 9.5). I have been talking with a prop shop and they can take a Mercury 4-stroke non-bigfoot prop that has a pitch as low as 5 and replace the hub rubber and spline socket with the size that fits the bigfoot shaft. I also have the extra long shaft engine (25inches) which some say may be affecting the rpms (but that really doesn't make sense to me). So I am also considering raising the engine mount bracket, My questions are these: what pitch prop do you have? what length shaft? and what is your wide open throttle rpm while in gear? I would grealy appreciate any information you can pass on. I have talked to technical people at Mercury, Michigan Wheel Propellers, and Comprop and the only answer they come up with is that the lower pitch props for the bigfoot will probably start coming out in about a year. Thanks for your help.
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