I'm considering buying a 1980 Hunter 25. I haven't seen it yet, but before I go, would be interested in any components I should especially look out for, or require close examination. The boat is stated as sound. Thanks in advance.
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Stu Sauer
Hunter Twentyfive
I had a 1979 shoal draft (3') up until 1986 and have many fond memories. The 4' draft lead keel would be a better choice than the shoal draft version which at times won't point better than maybe a 100 degree tacking angle. You may want a 150 Genoa for light air as well as the standard 110 jib and at least one reef in the main for wind speeds in the high teens and twentys. I was always able to raise and lower the mast myself by loosening the lowers and using the boom and mainsheet tackle to lower it forward over the bow pulpit at the beginning and end of the season. You wouldn't want do this every week if you expect to trailer the boat. The later models had more opening ports vs the fixed ports in the '78-79 versions. The outboard needs a lifting type bracket sufficient to keep it clear of the water when sailing or in the slip. Look for at least a 9.9 horse power long shaft outboard with electric start. Ours had a porta-potty (not so great, but no plumbing or thru hulls to deal with). A non pressurized Origo type alcohol stove would be preferable to the pump up type. The standard boat did not have any shore power provisions, but presumably that could be a do it your self add on. It had a decent hull shape with a good turn of speed, a simple single spreader mast and boom, and was inexpensive to maintain as well as easy to learn to sail.
I had a 1979 shoal draft (3') up until 1986 and have many fond memories. The 4' draft lead keel would be a better choice than the shoal draft version which at times won't point better than maybe a 100 degree tacking angle. You may want a 150 Genoa for light air as well as the standard 110 jib and at least one reef in the main for wind speeds in the high teens and twentys. I was always able to raise and lower the mast myself by loosening the lowers and using the boom and mainsheet tackle to lower it forward over the bow pulpit at the beginning and end of the season. You wouldn't want do this every week if you expect to trailer the boat. The later models had more opening ports vs the fixed ports in the '78-79 versions. The outboard needs a lifting type bracket sufficient to keep it clear of the water when sailing or in the slip. Look for at least a 9.9 horse power long shaft outboard with electric start. Ours had a porta-potty (not so great, but no plumbing or thru hulls to deal with). A non pressurized Origo type alcohol stove would be preferable to the pump up type. The standard boat did not have any shore power provisions, but presumably that could be a do it your self add on. It had a decent hull shape with a good turn of speed, a simple single spreader mast and boom, and was inexpensive to maintain as well as easy to learn to sail.
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Craig
I've got a '77
and we just love it. It is the lead keel 4'6" draft. Ir also has a marine head. Lot's of room for the 2 of us, and it sails pretty good. We're still learning too. Had it up to 5.5 kn on the knotmeter. Craig
and we just love it. It is the lead keel 4'6" draft. Ir also has a marine head. Lot's of room for the 2 of us, and it sails pretty good. We're still learning too. Had it up to 5.5 kn on the knotmeter. Craig
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David Foster
Archives and Reviews
Check the archives and reviews for the h25, and all the Cherubini designed Hunters of that era. There is a wealth of info there. Actually, though, the issues are common to all plastic boats of that vintage: 1, 2, & 3. Water damage! After 15 to 20 years, most of these boats have some kind of rot of the laminated deck's wooden core, either under the mast, or at other deck fittings, especially the lifeline stanchions. The grid, motor mounts, and lower parts of the woodwork may also have problems. 4. Wear and fatigue. Standing and running rigging and fittings can be ready to yield especially if the boat has been in salt water. Plastic fittings for hatches, ports, and plumbing may also be ready to go. 5. Corrosion. This is a real issue for salt water boats. That's why they often price around 10-15 percent less than a fresh water boat. 6. Instruments. The speedo and depth guage on our '77 h27 seemed to be working, but the digital readout was shot, and the speedo wiring was hopelessly messed up with no docs from the PO. Luckily, all of the above are easy to fix. Make sure that _you_ pick a good surveyor based on recommendations from local boaters, and you can get the seller to pay for 90 percent of the issues. Good luck, the h25 is a great boat! David Lady Lillie
Check the archives and reviews for the h25, and all the Cherubini designed Hunters of that era. There is a wealth of info there. Actually, though, the issues are common to all plastic boats of that vintage: 1, 2, & 3. Water damage! After 15 to 20 years, most of these boats have some kind of rot of the laminated deck's wooden core, either under the mast, or at other deck fittings, especially the lifeline stanchions. The grid, motor mounts, and lower parts of the woodwork may also have problems. 4. Wear and fatigue. Standing and running rigging and fittings can be ready to yield especially if the boat has been in salt water. Plastic fittings for hatches, ports, and plumbing may also be ready to go. 5. Corrosion. This is a real issue for salt water boats. That's why they often price around 10-15 percent less than a fresh water boat. 6. Instruments. The speedo and depth guage on our '77 h27 seemed to be working, but the digital readout was shot, and the speedo wiring was hopelessly messed up with no docs from the PO. Luckily, all of the above are easy to fix. Make sure that _you_ pick a good surveyor based on recommendations from local boaters, and you can get the seller to pay for 90 percent of the issues. Good luck, the h25 is a great boat! David Lady Lillie
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Patrick
go for it!
I just picked up a 78 for 2500 bucks that came with almost new sails and a 97 johnson 9.9. She had been moored in St. Augustine for a couple years but except for the reef growing on the bottom it hasn't needed any work. Everything is rock solid and she handles beautifully -its no race rig but the gps yielded 6.8kts steady in yesterday's 10-15 mph breeze with the stock sails. not bad for a neglected 26 year old boat!
I just picked up a 78 for 2500 bucks that came with almost new sails and a 97 johnson 9.9. She had been moored in St. Augustine for a couple years but except for the reef growing on the bottom it hasn't needed any work. Everything is rock solid and she handles beautifully -its no race rig but the gps yielded 6.8kts steady in yesterday's 10-15 mph breeze with the stock sails. not bad for a neglected 26 year old boat!
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Crazy Dave Condon
Surveyor
So often I run into folks with good intentions but when a boat is 20 years old, I suggest to get a surveyour. You need to know if there is any delamination, defects with equipment like wiring harnesses, swing keel pivot bolts and cabling, mast, standing rigging especially around the studs where attached, and so forth. Hope this helps you.
So often I run into folks with good intentions but when a boat is 20 years old, I suggest to get a surveyour. You need to know if there is any delamination, defects with equipment like wiring harnesses, swing keel pivot bolts and cabling, mast, standing rigging especially around the studs where attached, and so forth. Hope this helps you.
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Larry Jenkins
Thanks for all of your posts
It's encouraging that you've had sucess with your H25 purchases, and after I get a chance to inspect the boat, I am committing to getting a surveyor's assesment. Anyone know a good one in Southern Maryland?
It's encouraging that you've had sucess with your H25 purchases, and after I get a chance to inspect the boat, I am committing to getting a surveyor's assesment. Anyone know a good one in Southern Maryland?
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Gill
Why spend $ on survey
I purchased my first sailboat, an 82 H25 4 years ago with no knowledge on what to look for other than common sense. I jumped up & down on the boat to feel for how sound the boat was & looked for leaks in the cabin. I reached down the hull & felt for blisters & verified that the electrical systems were in proper operation. At the time the boat appeared to be sound & worth the small price I paid. I have since discovered that the boat is a tank on the water & by that I mean that it is tough as nails & sails great. I have taken her out in 35 plus winds under full sails all the time waiting for something to fail & nothing ever has & have been so proud of how well she sails. I cannot express in words how solid this boat is built. Why spend the extra $ on a survey when the cost of the boat is probably no too great?
I purchased my first sailboat, an 82 H25 4 years ago with no knowledge on what to look for other than common sense. I jumped up & down on the boat to feel for how sound the boat was & looked for leaks in the cabin. I reached down the hull & felt for blisters & verified that the electrical systems were in proper operation. At the time the boat appeared to be sound & worth the small price I paid. I have since discovered that the boat is a tank on the water & by that I mean that it is tough as nails & sails great. I have taken her out in 35 plus winds under full sails all the time waiting for something to fail & nothing ever has & have been so proud of how well she sails. I cannot express in words how solid this boat is built. Why spend the extra $ on a survey when the cost of the boat is probably no too great?
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Crazy Dave Condon
KrESPONSE TO MONEY
YOu had some knowledge what you were looking at. I have spoken to many folks who were looking to buy boats and did not have the experience and bought a pig in a poke spending alot of money on repairs or in some cases moth balled the boat or chain saw massacre. It is a personal choice to get a surveyour but in most cases worth it on older boats.
YOu had some knowledge what you were looking at. I have spoken to many folks who were looking to buy boats and did not have the experience and bought a pig in a poke spending alot of money on repairs or in some cases moth balled the boat or chain saw massacre. It is a personal choice to get a surveyour but in most cases worth it on older boats.
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