Hello all, I am a proud new owner of a 1978 Hunter 27. She is named Summer Winds, and currently hails from Westport, CT. I am hoping someone can tell me what are some common problems are that I might want to look out for. I am meeting with the owner for the first time and would like to be able to ask him about whether he has experienced any of the more common problems and to talk about routine maintenance such as when the stuffing box was last repacked. Any tips about other questions appreciated. The boat is going to be dry for the rest of the winter and I would like to replace/ repair things now so that I am ready to go in the Spring. I have enjoyed reading the posts from the archives and feel happy to be joining a group of people who care so much about their boats (and fellow owners). Thanks in advance for any help. Sean
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Welcome Aboard
I have a 31 Hunter named Windsong, but a good friend of mind has a 1976 Hunter 27 that he has own for over 15 years. He has had very little problems with his boat except for the things that wear out or break over time. I have been doing some of the repairs on his boat and have gotten to know the 27 very well. Where are you going to keep your boat?
I have a 31 Hunter named Windsong, but a good friend of mind has a 1976 Hunter 27 that he has own for over 15 years. He has had very little problems with his boat except for the things that wear out or break over time. I have been doing some of the repairs on his boat and have gotten to know the 27 very well. Where are you going to keep your boat?
Thanks
Thanks for your response. I am planning on keeping it at Captain's Cove in Bridgeport, but am looking at other potential spots in the area also. I am moving to the area and haven't fully scoped out the mooring/ club options. Are you in the CT area?
Thanks for your response. I am planning on keeping it at Captain's Cove in Bridgeport, but am looking at other potential spots in the area also. I am moving to the area and haven't fully scoped out the mooring/ club options. Are you in the CT area?
Sean...
I live in Trumbull and my boat is at Captain's Cove, Better check with Jan at the Cove fast for a slip they sellout fast.
I live in Trumbull and my boat is at Captain's Cove, Better check with Jan at the Cove fast for a slip they sellout fast.
Capt. Sean
You are about to become the owner of a Hunter Cherubini. The 27 is a terrific design. John Cherubini said, "A yacht should be graceful enough to be worthy of the sea." The 27 certainly is that. Regardless, the years take there toll as you have heard already. First, check the compression post by looking for an indentation at the mast step. Under the bulkhead at the base of the compression post inspect the "I" beam for advanced deterioration. You find this by lifting the bilge hatch. Then, check the stringers for rot and the chainplates that are attached. Don't cut corners because of the extra cost and have her surveyed. Fair Winds.
You are about to become the owner of a Hunter Cherubini. The 27 is a terrific design. John Cherubini said, "A yacht should be graceful enough to be worthy of the sea." The 27 certainly is that. Regardless, the years take there toll as you have heard already. First, check the compression post by looking for an indentation at the mast step. Under the bulkhead at the base of the compression post inspect the "I" beam for advanced deterioration. You find this by lifting the bilge hatch. Then, check the stringers for rot and the chainplates that are attached. Don't cut corners because of the extra cost and have her surveyed. Fair Winds.
Water in the deck
Congratulations on acquiring a great crusing boat! To elaborate on Mike's comments, most problems with boats of this age are caused by wear or corrosion - they are easy to spot and fix. The problems that are harder to see, and fix are the ones caused by the slow entry of water into the encapsulated wood that is meant to stiffen the deck and the bilge. Anywhere that the deck is penetrated for fittings or hardware is suspect for rot of the wood core. That includes the mast step, the stanchions, and deck hardware. If the mast step is affected, one symptom is difficulty in closing the aft door to the head when the mast is stepped and tensioned. As with any boat of this age, careful work with a moisture meter by your surveyor will probalby spot the problem areas. Problems with the compression post itself are actually less common with the h27 than other boats of the line. They are also easy to spot as deterioration of the "post itself,typically at the top. The "post" is actually two teak boards forming a T shape, and making up the starboard jamb of the aft door to the head. Even less common (but possible) is penetration of the wood in the grid in the bilge. The only way I know to inspect for this is to drill a hole in the top of the glass over the timber. I wouldn't suggest bothering unless there is some other reason for suspicion. Finally, there are the ports (windows). Whether they open, or not, water has probably been entering around them for a long time. Most members who have replaced them report that the wood layer is simply missing from rot. Fortunately. though, the cabin roof doesn't depend much on this layer for structural stifness, so you can wait until you really want to replace the windows before dealing with this issue. (Lady Lillie is still waiting after five years, and no plans for the coming year.) The other common leak is the hull/deck joint. We address this by tightening all the bolts every year. Water from the ports and the hull/deck joint seeps down the fabric on the cabin walls where it causes some delamination or other minor problems. So far, we have just reglued the fabric, since the leaks have been minor, even through the six months on the hard every winter. Finally, I would mention the standing rigging. An inspection for "pigtails" on the cables (spot then by the way they catch a piece of tissue paper lightly passed over the cable) and tiny cracks in the fittings (clean the fittings, the apply die, wipe it off and observe with a magnifying glass) indicate the need to replace the rigging. They say ten years on salt water is the estimated life, so talk to the P.O. for his actions. Lady Lillie's rigging was good (according to our professional rigger) after 23 years on fresh water, Good luck, and great sailing. A great feature of the h27 is the cabin. My wife and I think it is ideal for the two of us, and spend 20 to 30 nights a year on the boat, often for weeks at a time. We have sailed with four adults, but that is for good friends or famliy to say the least. David Lady Lillie
Congratulations on acquiring a great crusing boat! To elaborate on Mike's comments, most problems with boats of this age are caused by wear or corrosion - they are easy to spot and fix. The problems that are harder to see, and fix are the ones caused by the slow entry of water into the encapsulated wood that is meant to stiffen the deck and the bilge. Anywhere that the deck is penetrated for fittings or hardware is suspect for rot of the wood core. That includes the mast step, the stanchions, and deck hardware. If the mast step is affected, one symptom is difficulty in closing the aft door to the head when the mast is stepped and tensioned. As with any boat of this age, careful work with a moisture meter by your surveyor will probalby spot the problem areas. Problems with the compression post itself are actually less common with the h27 than other boats of the line. They are also easy to spot as deterioration of the "post itself,typically at the top. The "post" is actually two teak boards forming a T shape, and making up the starboard jamb of the aft door to the head. Even less common (but possible) is penetration of the wood in the grid in the bilge. The only way I know to inspect for this is to drill a hole in the top of the glass over the timber. I wouldn't suggest bothering unless there is some other reason for suspicion. Finally, there are the ports (windows). Whether they open, or not, water has probably been entering around them for a long time. Most members who have replaced them report that the wood layer is simply missing from rot. Fortunately. though, the cabin roof doesn't depend much on this layer for structural stifness, so you can wait until you really want to replace the windows before dealing with this issue. (Lady Lillie is still waiting after five years, and no plans for the coming year.) The other common leak is the hull/deck joint. We address this by tightening all the bolts every year. Water from the ports and the hull/deck joint seeps down the fabric on the cabin walls where it causes some delamination or other minor problems. So far, we have just reglued the fabric, since the leaks have been minor, even through the six months on the hard every winter. Finally, I would mention the standing rigging. An inspection for "pigtails" on the cables (spot then by the way they catch a piece of tissue paper lightly passed over the cable) and tiny cracks in the fittings (clean the fittings, the apply die, wipe it off and observe with a magnifying glass) indicate the need to replace the rigging. They say ten years on salt water is the estimated life, so talk to the P.O. for his actions. Lady Lillie's rigging was good (according to our professional rigger) after 23 years on fresh water, Good luck, and great sailing. A great feature of the h27 is the cabin. My wife and I think it is ideal for the two of us, and spend 20 to 30 nights a year on the boat, often for weeks at a time. We have sailed with four adults, but that is for good friends or famliy to say the least. David Lady Lillie
Thank You
Thank you David, Mike and Patrick. I have printed out your comments and will check everything you have mentioned. I am going to the boat today and can possibly post pictures later in case you are interested. Thank you again, it has been great to get all this expert advice so quickly!
Thank you David, Mike and Patrick. I have printed out your comments and will check everything you have mentioned. I am going to the boat today and can possibly post pictures later in case you are interested. Thank you again, it has been great to get all this expert advice so quickly!
Sean, I also own a hunter 27, 1977
I agree with all of the previous posts. With regard to the compression of the mast step. Mine has compress a little bit, but not enough to make me have to fix it yet. I did reset the step itself to make certain that the water doesn't get in that area. I have read that in this particular boat, it us not usually the post, but rather the wood directly under the step. Other owners have recommended removing the step fitting, cutting away the fiberglass, and replacing the supporting wood underneath. This would be followed by the reglass and reinstall of the step receiver. It is difficult to see until the mast is actually stepped. Another issue that I have run into...I have the yanmar sb8 diesel. It appears that to replace the packing, the entire engine must be slid back a bit into the cabin and the shaft decoupled. The stuffing box in my 27 will not slide back enough toward the engine to allow a stuffing pick in there for old Packing removal. I have not done this yet, I plan to try and tighten it up this season first. I had the top end of the the yanmar rebuilt this winter by Mack Boring in Middleboro, MA. The rebuilt the entire top end of the engine including a new injector. To the best of my knowledge, the top end of the engine had never been touching since the boat was built. It is a great sailing boat with lots of room and puts the newer 90's Hunter to shame. Lots of mass (7000 pounds!) I have the 4' keel and she points really well. I have also noticed that the windows tend to leak. Whatever you do, do not use 3M 5200 to reset them. I had one leaking and removed it. It still leaked after reseting. I think that hunter cut the original opening a little too big. Let me know how you make out!
I agree with all of the previous posts. With regard to the compression of the mast step. Mine has compress a little bit, but not enough to make me have to fix it yet. I did reset the step itself to make certain that the water doesn't get in that area. I have read that in this particular boat, it us not usually the post, but rather the wood directly under the step. Other owners have recommended removing the step fitting, cutting away the fiberglass, and replacing the supporting wood underneath. This would be followed by the reglass and reinstall of the step receiver. It is difficult to see until the mast is actually stepped. Another issue that I have run into...I have the yanmar sb8 diesel. It appears that to replace the packing, the entire engine must be slid back a bit into the cabin and the shaft decoupled. The stuffing box in my 27 will not slide back enough toward the engine to allow a stuffing pick in there for old Packing removal. I have not done this yet, I plan to try and tighten it up this season first. I had the top end of the the yanmar rebuilt this winter by Mack Boring in Middleboro, MA. The rebuilt the entire top end of the engine including a new injector. To the best of my knowledge, the top end of the engine had never been touching since the boat was built. It is a great sailing boat with lots of room and puts the newer 90's Hunter to shame. Lots of mass (7000 pounds!) I have the 4' keel and she points really well. I have also noticed that the windows tend to leak. Whatever you do, do not use 3M 5200 to reset them. I had one leaking and removed it. It still leaked after reseting. I think that hunter cut the original opening a little too big. Let me know how you make out!
Good luck on your new toy
Sean, Good luck, great boat. I I've hap my 1978 H-27 for almost 10 years now. Very few big problems but I have replaced the Grey ports (need to do the fixed windows next), Replace the trapazoid hatch. New Furler, New Anchor Hawsaw, New interior lights, new interior lining (fabric on walls), new cushion covers (thanks to my wife), Transmission job on the Yanmar 8, new hatch boards (3/4" oak), New tiller, New formica wall covering on bulkheads, new sink pump, 2nd electric panel in port bunk, Mew genny and I need a new main. The running rigginh will be replaced this spring. New rail mounter foprce 10 grill A lot of other little stuff. But I spend a lot more time sailing and a lot less money than some of my freinds with floating condos. The H-27 (1978) is just about bulletproof. I have the shoal keep and it's not a great sailor up wind but fun and safe. I'm across the sound in Centerport from you but drive through Bridgeport on my way to my sons school in Vermont a few times a year. I have some great pics of "My Pleasure" which I'll try to post if I can figure out how to do it.
Sean, Good luck, great boat. I I've hap my 1978 H-27 for almost 10 years now. Very few big problems but I have replaced the Grey ports (need to do the fixed windows next), Replace the trapazoid hatch. New Furler, New Anchor Hawsaw, New interior lights, new interior lining (fabric on walls), new cushion covers (thanks to my wife), Transmission job on the Yanmar 8, new hatch boards (3/4" oak), New tiller, New formica wall covering on bulkheads, new sink pump, 2nd electric panel in port bunk, Mew genny and I need a new main. The running rigginh will be replaced this spring. New rail mounter foprce 10 grill A lot of other little stuff. But I spend a lot more time sailing and a lot less money than some of my freinds with floating condos. The H-27 (1978) is just about bulletproof. I have the shoal keep and it's not a great sailor up wind but fun and safe. I'm across the sound in Centerport from you but drive through Bridgeport on my way to my sons school in Vermont a few times a year. I have some great pics of "My Pleasure" which I'll try to post if I can figure out how to do it.
Howard, a couple of hunter 27 ?s for you!
1. which portlights did you replace and where did you get them? I have contemplated removing mine and taking them to a glass company to replace the plexi. I am noticing a tiny bit of compression at my mast step. Do you have this problem. I don't think it is the teak post, but rather compression of the wood just underneath the mast step fitting. I have made certain no more water can get in there. The prev. owner let it go. I have also had the upper end of the yanmar rebuilt this winter and bought a new exhaust elbow on the side of caution. I am adding a solar vent this summer and maybe an small opening portlight to the right of the companionway. Any thoughts?
1. which portlights did you replace and where did you get them? I have contemplated removing mine and taking them to a glass company to replace the plexi. I am noticing a tiny bit of compression at my mast step. Do you have this problem. I don't think it is the teak post, but rather compression of the wood just underneath the mast step fitting. I have made certain no more water can get in there. The prev. owner let it go. I have also had the upper end of the yanmar rebuilt this winter and bought a new exhaust elbow on the side of caution. I am adding a solar vent this summer and maybe an small opening portlight to the right of the companionway. Any thoughts?
Grey/Pomenette from Thrifty Mariner
On my 1978 I have 4 openeing portlights. I got the Grey/Ppomennette opening ports. They were almost extact replacements for the old ones. I did need to do a little adjusting with a file on the cabin sides to make room for the drip spouts on the new ports. I think they were 14" ports. Thrifty Mariner, I think, is out of business but search the net and I sure you find them at a discount. Thrifty had factory seconds that looked great. After on season you couldn't tell the difference. I have no mast compression on my old girl so I guess I'm lucky. I'm careful not to over tension the shrouds. (In case you couldn't tell I don't type or spell very well). The biggest problem I have to date is spalling of the old bottom paint. No blisters but the old epoxy based paint comes off in big chips each spring. I tried one of the marine strippers last year and it was a mess. I did switch from epoxy based bottom paint to a sloughing paint. Maybe that will help but since the boat is in a yard that dosen't allow bottom work (that's the trend on the north shore of LI) I'll have to live with it. I have jack stands and next year I'll consider storing in my yard. That way I can do a sanding job on plastic tarps . I just have to find a hauler that can pull the boat and step the mast. I only live a few miles from the water. As to my engine I cleaned the elbow out this year and changed the thermostat. I think I need to find a good mechanic to do a good check up on the little one banger (top end valve adjsutment & injector check ). She starts right up but I seem to overlaod very easily. Any suggestions? I'l like to send you all some pics but I'm still trying to figure out how to make the pics of "My Pleasure" smaller. My digital camera makes them too big (to many meg's? ) but I can't figure that one out. Any suggertions here? Howard
On my 1978 I have 4 openeing portlights. I got the Grey/Ppomennette opening ports. They were almost extact replacements for the old ones. I did need to do a little adjusting with a file on the cabin sides to make room for the drip spouts on the new ports. I think they were 14" ports. Thrifty Mariner, I think, is out of business but search the net and I sure you find them at a discount. Thrifty had factory seconds that looked great. After on season you couldn't tell the difference. I have no mast compression on my old girl so I guess I'm lucky. I'm careful not to over tension the shrouds. (In case you couldn't tell I don't type or spell very well). The biggest problem I have to date is spalling of the old bottom paint. No blisters but the old epoxy based paint comes off in big chips each spring. I tried one of the marine strippers last year and it was a mess. I did switch from epoxy based bottom paint to a sloughing paint. Maybe that will help but since the boat is in a yard that dosen't allow bottom work (that's the trend on the north shore of LI) I'll have to live with it. I have jack stands and next year I'll consider storing in my yard. That way I can do a sanding job on plastic tarps . I just have to find a hauler that can pull the boat and step the mast. I only live a few miles from the water. As to my engine I cleaned the elbow out this year and changed the thermostat. I think I need to find a good mechanic to do a good check up on the little one banger (top end valve adjsutment & injector check ). She starts right up but I seem to overlaod very easily. Any suggestions? I'l like to send you all some pics but I'm still trying to figure out how to make the pics of "My Pleasure" smaller. My digital camera makes them too big (to many meg's? ) but I can't figure that one out. Any suggertions here? Howard
Hunter 27
I have owned a Hunter 27' 1976 for the past six years, The greatest boat, same minor problems, NOTE MINOR!! Great Boat!! The lines are the classic stlye, forgiving, sails herself. I have done many upgrades and continue. Gook Luck>> I sail in the Delaware River to the Ches. Bay.
I have owned a Hunter 27' 1976 for the past six years, The greatest boat, same minor problems, NOTE MINOR!! Great Boat!! The lines are the classic stlye, forgiving, sails herself. I have done many upgrades and continue. Gook Luck>> I sail in the Delaware River to the Ches. Bay.
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