Has anyone had experience in replacing the aft starboard Bulkhead on an Oday 25? The upper right corner has rotted out due to water seeping in through the shroud attachment
Bulkhead Replacement
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Is it easy to remove? I take it it that it is attached through the sink cabinet? Is it secured anywhere else to the hell or deck?
It's not a big deal, but neither is it like replacing a doorknob. The bulkhead is usually glued to the hull via tabs, which can be cut with a angle grinder ir hammer and wood chisel....carefully. The cabinetry is usually only screwed together so is not to hard to tske apart. You will need to start taking things apart and see what u get into.. Also, where there is bulkhead rot there is other problems you have yet to find. Most glaringly, why is the bulkhead getting wet and repeatedly over a long period? Are you a do it yourselfer?teacherspet said:
Also there is the option of using git rot on the corner and it will harden and stop the rot, but is unsightly. Not a prob if the area is hidden from site, yet open enough thet it can be fully accessible with a brush, and completely dry.
Consider checking out my profile page, my photo album, and especially my oldest posts such as "trouble with tabernacles" and "cutta hole in my boat".
also been there
Look up my posts from last summer to see some of what you might run into. First of all DO NOT SAIL until fixed. The chainplate is likely to pull out under load, shoot through the deck and take the mast over the side (like mine did). Choose only marine grade plywood for replacement. The bulkhead is screwed to the settee and to the cabin liner in addition to being fiberglassed to the hull. You want to get it out in one piece so you can use it for an exact template. You will need to take out the compression post to be able to slide the bulkhead out. Unfortunately the leaking has also damaged the balsa core of the deck so you will need to remove a section of deck to get ALL the wet core out then replace the core and reglass the deck. As has been said previously it is not impossible but will take time and you'll swear a lot. My yard wanted several thousand to do the replacement (I did both sides while I had things apart), I did it for about $500 in materials. (You'll need 2 4x8 sheets of marine grade plywood to do both sides, I used Meranti)...google it and you will find a source, I sourced mine in NJ.
Keep us posted on how the job goes.
Look up my posts from last summer to see some of what you might run into. First of all DO NOT SAIL until fixed. The chainplate is likely to pull out under load, shoot through the deck and take the mast over the side (like mine did). Choose only marine grade plywood for replacement. The bulkhead is screwed to the settee and to the cabin liner in addition to being fiberglassed to the hull. You want to get it out in one piece so you can use it for an exact template. You will need to take out the compression post to be able to slide the bulkhead out. Unfortunately the leaking has also damaged the balsa core of the deck so you will need to remove a section of deck to get ALL the wet core out then replace the core and reglass the deck. As has been said previously it is not impossible but will take time and you'll swear a lot. My yard wanted several thousand to do the replacement (I did both sides while I had things apart), I did it for about $500 in materials. (You'll need 2 4x8 sheets of marine grade plywood to do both sides, I used Meranti)...google it and you will find a source, I sourced mine in NJ.
Keep us posted on how the job goes.
To save some money, maybe, you might be able to do it with one sheet. As mentioned above you can't get both bulkheads out of one 4x8 sheet of ply. Almost but not quite.
If the port bulkhead, which is bigger, isn't in too bad shape the starboard bulkhead should be small enough to be cut out of the old port bulkhead.
Rich
If the port bulkhead, which is bigger, isn't in too bad shape the starboard bulkhead should be small enough to be cut out of the old port bulkhead.
Rich
Teachers Pet
Teachers Pet
What Keith and Rich have not told you is their pages in the archives about this project. And then there is Appleman's project and pictures somewhere in the archives and who was the guy before him, Joe something?
This is a doable project should keep you busy. Find the several threads in the achives for reference.
Ed K
O 26
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Teachers Pet
What Keith and Rich have not told you is their pages in the archives about this project. And then there is Appleman's project and pictures somewhere in the archives and who was the guy before him, Joe something?
This is a doable project should keep you busy. Find the several threads in the achives for reference.
Ed K
O 26
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If you guys get the chance, you should pick up this month's May/June issue of "Small Craft Advisor" Magazine No. 69. Capt'n Pauley has a great article with illustrations entitled, "Deck Problems: Revisited" Before you do anything that involves repairing a delaminated deck or sealing deck fastenings and openings, you may want to check out his write-up first.
Joe
Joe
Also have a question about bulkheads. I have a leak at the tabernacle and in order to rebed, the port bulkhead has to come out. I can see signs of previous leaks from this area, but overall the bulkhead is pretty solid. Obviously, we can't know for sure until we pull it, but I'm wondering replacing it completely vs. dealing with some minor rotting with epoxy and then putting the original back in. The chainplate areas are solid.
So the question is whether I can pull the bulkhead, dry it out over the winter, then epoxy around the edges and re-install. It's not the work I'm trying to avoid, but the expense of buying the correct plywood for the job.
So the question is whether I can pull the bulkhead, dry it out over the winter, then epoxy around the edges and re-install. It's not the work I'm trying to avoid, but the expense of buying the correct plywood for the job.
If there is not much rot I think your plan would work. I did that with the bulkhead that forms the front of the hanging locker. The bottom had rotted. So instead of replacing it I dried it out real well and brushed the rotted area with several coats of epoxy. It dried and seemes hard and sturdy. I have also replaced my bulkheads but I did not use marine grade plywood. I bought oak (on one side) plywood, cut it to shape, sealed the edges and chainplate attachment area including the insides of the bolt holes and then painted it. I could have stained it but wanted to lighten the interior up. initially I had epoxied the whole bulkhead but found that I could not get a good paint job on it. The epoxy bled through no matter what I did. there r some helpful threads in my history. And my photo album might be useful. Do u know how to find someones' old threads on their profile page? It is rather hidden.Indysailor said:
working with epoxy
When working with epoxy remember a few things. Most of the most popular brands have wax in them and you must use acetone to clean the wax residue off surface before next coat or painting. The wax coat is called blush.
There are many types of epoxy. Thin or penetrating epoxy is used to seal ends of wood or plywood. It is also used to repair inner spaces of wood that has rotted somewhat but not lost shape.
Regular epoxy is thicker and will not go as deep into wood as thin epoxy. It is good for second or subsequent coats when build surface back to original level or shape. When using regular epoxy consider using fillers.
Epoxy fillers are determined by where the epoxy will be. Under water, silica is used. Above water and structural repairs use fibers such as polyester, glass, or Kevlar. Final layers that are to be faired us micro bubbles or actual wood to allow for final shaping.
When using fibers as filler, when it cures, it will look like a rats nest. Just use sander to fair out. The fibers allow for next layer to adhere better, referred to as mechanical adhesion.
Always keep in mind that plain epoxy is yucky yellow or tan which is hard to hide on final color finish. Make sure that you pigment epoxy to near the final colors of area. So, if your final color is white, make sure that you pigment epoxy to cure white. Otherwise it may take many coats of paint to blend and hide.
Of course none of the above applies if you believe that Obama is competent. In that case you need several agencies to evaluate your work. And several humongous government grants. Ask Keith for advice on this subject.
Ed K
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When working with epoxy remember a few things. Most of the most popular brands have wax in them and you must use acetone to clean the wax residue off surface before next coat or painting. The wax coat is called blush.
There are many types of epoxy. Thin or penetrating epoxy is used to seal ends of wood or plywood. It is also used to repair inner spaces of wood that has rotted somewhat but not lost shape.
Regular epoxy is thicker and will not go as deep into wood as thin epoxy. It is good for second or subsequent coats when build surface back to original level or shape. When using regular epoxy consider using fillers.
Epoxy fillers are determined by where the epoxy will be. Under water, silica is used. Above water and structural repairs use fibers such as polyester, glass, or Kevlar. Final layers that are to be faired us micro bubbles or actual wood to allow for final shaping.
When using fibers as filler, when it cures, it will look like a rats nest. Just use sander to fair out. The fibers allow for next layer to adhere better, referred to as mechanical adhesion.
Always keep in mind that plain epoxy is yucky yellow or tan which is hard to hide on final color finish. Make sure that you pigment epoxy to near the final colors of area. So, if your final color is white, make sure that you pigment epoxy to cure white. Otherwise it may take many coats of paint to blend and hide.
Of course none of the above applies if you believe that Obama is competent. In that case you need several agencies to evaluate your work. And several humongous government grants. Ask Keith for advice on this subject.
Ed K
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Thanks for the info on epoxy. I was thinking that the edges will be where there is damage, so penetrating epoxy was what I had in mind. Is that so different than thinned epoxy?
Hoping the damages is not nearly what was found in My Girl.
Hoping the damages is not nearly what was found in My Girl.
Penetrating epoxy is basically just thinned epoxy. Thinning with acetone would work I think. It does take much longer to catalyze. Depending on temp it could be as long as a week to harden.
Rich
Rich,
While you are generally correct. There are thin epoxies that are formulated to be thin or flowable.
Get Rot at your west marine is such a product. From the get go it was formulated to be watery.
Another product is ESP 155 sold by http://www.epoxyproducts.com/
and specifically here:
http://www.epoxyproducts.com/1_marineresins.html [need to scroll way, way down to find]
Also this company sells a product TA 661 which I recommend having when working with epoxy. It is a cleaner that cleans brushes used with epoxy so long as you immerse before the epoxy kicks. This stuff also cleans brushes used with bottom paint!
If you can figure out this companies web site, let me know.
Ed K
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I have found that plain quick hardening epoxy, without any fillers, penetrates very very well. I have never thinned it further. I do not think further thinning would be profitable. However. I do agree with Ed K, please stay scared and keep voting republican, I, the rich, am making a killing. I have to boast that I own what is probably the only $25k o'day 26 on lake weissRBone said:
The killer is that I met a new club member last week. He owns a very nice looking newly painted o'day 25 that looks like new. She sports a new set of canvas(sails), covers, rolling furler, brand new teak, no i dont mean refinished, i mean brand fricking new lumber teak, and a new Honda 8 or 9 HP outboard. What did he give for her? $6k. ...He did not do a bit of work on her, he said he bought her in a distressed sale. .....I think I am going to skuttle her next week.
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The four girls in the pictures r military wives, my wife and daughter and two daughters in law. The two boys, my sons, r active duty AF. The husbands missing r yours truly, who is taking the picture, and the son in law, who is deployed to Afghanistan with the 101st. Oooorha!
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