Has anyone had experience in replacing the aft starboard Bulkhead on an Oday 25? The upper right corner has rotted out due to water seeping in through the shroud attachment
It's not a big deal, but neither is it like replacing a doorknob. The bulkhead is usually glued to the hull via tabs, which can be cut with a angle grinder ir hammer and wood chisel....carefully. The cabinetry is usually only screwed together so is not to hard to tske apart. You will need to start taking things apart and see what u get into.. Also, where there is bulkhead rot there is other problems you have yet to find. Most glaringly, why is the bulkhead getting wet and repeatedly over a long period? Are you a do it yourselfer?teacherspet said:Is it easy to remove? I take it it that it is attached through the sink cabinet? Is it secured anywhere else to the hell or deck?
------------------------- // ------------------------------To save some money, maybe, you might be able to do it with one sheet. As mentioned above you can't get both bulkheads out of one 4x8 sheet of ply. Almost but not quite.
If the port bulkhead, which is bigger, isn't in too bad shape the starboard bulkhead should be small enough to be cut out of the old port bulkhead.
Rich
If there is not much rot I think your plan would work. I did that with the bulkhead that forms the front of the hanging locker. The bottom had rotted. So instead of replacing it I dried it out real well and brushed the rotted area with several coats of epoxy. It dried and seemes hard and sturdy. I have also replaced my bulkheads but I did not use marine grade plywood. I bought oak (on one side) plywood, cut it to shape, sealed the edges and chainplate attachment area including the insides of the bolt holes and then painted it. I could have stained it but wanted to lighten the interior up. initially I had epoxied the whole bulkhead but found that I could not get a good paint job on it. The epoxy bled through no matter what I did. there r some helpful threads in my history. And my photo album might be useful. Do u know how to find someones' old threads on their profile page? It is rather hidden.Indysailor said:Also have a question about bulkheads. I have a leak at the tabernacle and in order to rebed, the port bulkhead has to come out. I can see signs of previous leaks from this area, but overall the bulkhead is pretty solid. Obviously, we can't know for sure until we pull it, but I'm wondering replacing it completely vs. dealing with some minor rotting with epoxy and then putting the original back in. The chainplate areas are solid.
So the question is whether I can pull the bulkhead, dry it out over the winter, then epoxy around the edges and re-install. It's not the work I'm trying to avoid, but the expense of buying the correct plywood for the job.
Some pixemergpa1 said:If there is not much rot I think your plan would work. I did that with the bulkhead that forms the front of the hanging locker. The bottom had rotted. So instead of replacing it I dried it out real well and brushed the rotted area with several coats of epoxy. It dried and seemes hard and sturdy. I have also replaced my bulkheads but I did not use marine grade plywood. I bought oak (on one side) plywood, cut it to shape, sealed the edges and chainplate attachment area including the insides of the bolt holes and then painted it. I could have stained it but wanted to lighten the interior up. initially I had epoxied the whole bulkhead but found that I could not get a good paint job on it. The epoxy bled through no matter what I did. there r some helpful threads in my history. And my photo album might be useful. Do u know how to find someones' old threads on their profile page? It is rather hidden.
Yes, and I did look at your pix a while back. Thanks for posting all those.Do u know how to find someones' old threads on their profile page? It is rather hidden.
- - - - // - - - -Yes, and I did look at your pix a while back. Thanks for posting all those.
Penetrating epoxy is basically just thinned epoxy. Thinning with acetone would work I think. It does take much longer to catalyze. Depending on temp it could be as long as a week to harden.Thanks for the info on epoxy. I was thinking that the edges will be where there is damage, so penetrating epoxy was what I had in mind. Is that so different than thinned epoxy?
Hoping the damages is not nearly what was found in My Girl.
Rich,Penetrating epoxy is basically just thinned epoxy. Thinning with acetone would work I think. It does take much longer to catalyze. Depending on temp it could be as long as a week to harden.
Rich
I have found that plain quick hardening epoxy, without any fillers, penetrates very very well. I have never thinned it further. I do not think further thinning would be profitable. However. I do agree with Ed K, please stay scared and keep voting republican, I, the rich, am making a killing. I have to boast that I own what is probably the only $25k o'day 26 on lake weissRBone said:Penetrating epoxy is basically just thinned epoxy. Thinning with acetone would work I think. It does take much longer to catalyze. Depending on temp it could be as long as a week to harden.
Rich
Dude, that's great.. That is great. I love itIndysailor said:You're boat is still a foot longer than his. He will forever be a guy on a lesser boat.