Building race marks
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No idea on how to build the things but can you leave them out all season and not be considered a navigation hazard?
Our club made durable marks from 8 and 10-inch PVC pipe. (Free scraps from a local contractor) Drill 1-inch holes in the bottom area to anchor the concrete ballast in the bottom 2-feet. Don't forget to embed the ring bolt. Fill the remaining 6-feet or so with styrofoam scraps, stuffed in firmly. Fill the last 3 or 4-inches with 'foam-in-place' or use an end cap.
You will know if you hit it on rounding so you can take your turns.
You will know if you hit it on rounding so you can take your turns.
Our local YC made new ones last year out of what appeared to be plastic 55 gallon drums. They painted them bright (highway stripe) yellow with red and green numbers. They glued those temporary L shaped reflectors that they use for road work on top so you can spot them with a flashlight/spotlight at night. They seemed to hold up well last year but our season is only 6 months and in fresh water. YMMV.
Our club cuts a sheet of 3/4" marine plywood in half to make a sandwich with styrofoam billets between them. A large eyebolt goes through the sandwich and tightens everything down. Nice-sized washers spread the load, and the eye gets attached to the mooring line. On top of the sandwich platform we screw down an orange and white reflective road constsruction barrel, marked with a letter designating which permanent mark it is. People complained that these were still difficult to see at long distance, so they are now two barrels high, and can be seen more than two miles away. They work well and don't take long to make. They're too big for people to want to mess with, and they last well, since we bring them in for the winter.
Bill: these marks are common. On the Great Lakes there are all kinds of buoys and markers not on the chart. This is why CRegs require a constant lookout. If you hit something, on the chart or otherwise, it is your fault, plain and simple.
Thanks for the replies. some good ideas and I hope more will come.
Thanks for the replies. some good ideas and I hope more will come.
They look great! Can you find out what you do to anchor them and ballast them to keep them upright?Our local YC made new ones last year out of what appeared to be plastic 55 gallon drums. They painted them bright (highway stripe) yellow with red and green numbers. They glued those temporary L shaped reflectors that they use for road work on top so you can spot them with a flashlight/spotlight at night. They seemed to hold up well last year but our season is only 6 months and in fresh water. YMMV.
Here's what Ron, who was in charge of making the new marks, had to say. YMMV as far as anchors go, since we're on a shallow lake with no currents to worry about. We have 10 marks, plus the center pin. Olympic Circle plus a dash mark in each of the southern fingers of the lake.
Marks are 55 gal plastic drums. Empty. Attached by a bridle of 3 chains to a 1 gallon bucket of concrete, a couple of feet below the surface, that serves as ballast, keeping them upright. Anchor chain from ballast to a 5 gallon plastic bucket on the bottom, typically filled with 1 sack of concrete...1/2 to 2/3 full...attached to an embedded loop of rebar.
Center pin (old location...now holding 5 mark) and current location (1/2 mile north) have more robust anchors. New welded concoction of brake drums, courtesy EYC, and old 30 gal drum partially filled with concrete.
Marks WILL NOT support any moored vessel. Doesn't take much to drag a 5 gal bucket on the bottom.
Center pins have stayed put under the pressure of moored committee boats...so far.
Hope this helps
Marks are 55 gal plastic drums. Empty. Attached by a bridle of 3 chains to a 1 gallon bucket of concrete, a couple of feet below the surface, that serves as ballast, keeping them upright. Anchor chain from ballast to a 5 gallon plastic bucket on the bottom, typically filled with 1 sack of concrete...1/2 to 2/3 full...attached to an embedded loop of rebar.
Center pin (old location...now holding 5 mark) and current location (1/2 mile north) have more robust anchors. New welded concoction of brake drums, courtesy EYC, and old 30 gal drum partially filled with concrete.
Marks WILL NOT support any moored vessel. Doesn't take much to drag a 5 gal bucket on the bottom.
Center pins have stayed put under the pressure of moored committee boats...so far.
Hope this helps
We used the 40 gallon barrels years ago but found they had too much windage and tended to drift in a good stiff breeze or large waves. Needed heaveier weights for anchors which gets heavy and cumbersome to build & transport. The 8 inch PVC pipes seem to work much better and if you need to see them better, put a flag on top.
Our club, FYC, has a couple different styles. The 8" PVC are markers 1,4,6. The start line (A+B) and 2,5 are 25Gal barrels. And #3 is kind of a different (Keg) shape. All are painted red with black #'s. To hold them down we use chain with old car break rotors (4-5).
I don't know why they are different. I figure it's a cost saving thing to use what you have handy.
They get power washed each fall and painted each spring "if" they need it.
No reflectors for night. I guess you would just here it.
I don't know why they are different. I figure it's a cost saving thing to use what you have handy.
They get power washed each fall and painted each spring "if" they need it.
No reflectors for night. I guess you would just here it.
Use 50 litre plastic drums and fibreglass them for added strength. Our club uses similar marks. But they are used in a lake.
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