i've noticed a buckling on the outside of the hull corresponding to where the chain plates would be attached on the inside of the hull amidships. Any one notice or had a simmilar problem?
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D
David
J
John W
Same Problem
I have the same problem. The buckling is reduced when I slacken the stays. Spoke to a boat yard person and he suggested that maybe the deck had lost it's integrity as a result of water infiltraton. I will check this out in the spring.If this is the case I may have to replace the core of the deck on both sides. I would welcome suggestions. John
I have the same problem. The buckling is reduced when I slacken the stays. Spoke to a boat yard person and he suggested that maybe the deck had lost it's integrity as a result of water infiltraton. I will check this out in the spring.If this is the case I may have to replace the core of the deck on both sides. I would welcome suggestions. John
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Henry Weber
Hunter hull dimples
My 1977 H-30 also has this problem. On both sides (topsides) there is a concave area about 2 ft in diameter with a depth of maybe an inch or less. It is exactly opposite the rear lower shroud bulkheads where they attach to the hull. It is quite noticable on the exterior and increases with tension on the rear shroud cable. I do not understand how this can be related to core rot in the deck. I think that is a different and unrelated problem. Do you feel this is a structural fault worthy of concern or only cosmetic? In rough weather the dimple flexes in and out with each wave. It is quite apparent. Any ideas for a fix? Henry
My 1977 H-30 also has this problem. On both sides (topsides) there is a concave area about 2 ft in diameter with a depth of maybe an inch or less. It is exactly opposite the rear lower shroud bulkheads where they attach to the hull. It is quite noticable on the exterior and increases with tension on the rear shroud cable. I do not understand how this can be related to core rot in the deck. I think that is a different and unrelated problem. Do you feel this is a structural fault worthy of concern or only cosmetic? In rough weather the dimple flexes in and out with each wave. It is quite apparent. Any ideas for a fix? Henry
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larry seiberlich
RE worthy of concern
Pete answeared me with a list of concerns. He owns a 30 and does not have this problem. I do not think a hull should show any buckle. Fiberglass is known for its strength, the old boats, I thought would be over built. Maybe the rigging is just to tight, I hope. I don't know how fiberglass can keep flexing before there is a crack in the gel coat. As Pete said it coud be related to a seperation due to rot. No consulation, but your the 2nd boat that has this problem. We wil have to see who else writes. Larry
Pete answeared me with a list of concerns. He owns a 30 and does not have this problem. I do not think a hull should show any buckle. Fiberglass is known for its strength, the old boats, I thought would be over built. Maybe the rigging is just to tight, I hope. I don't know how fiberglass can keep flexing before there is a crack in the gel coat. As Pete said it coud be related to a seperation due to rot. No consulation, but your the 2nd boat that has this problem. We wil have to see who else writes. Larry
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larry seiberlich
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larry seiberlich
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Alan Johnson
Dimple?
I also noticed a depression in the hull above the waterline where the blukhead is tabbed into the hull. I beleive my was caused on the rigging being too tight when it was put on the hard for the winter layup. I relaxed the stays and most of the depression bouced back but not completely.
I also noticed a depression in the hull above the waterline where the blukhead is tabbed into the hull. I beleive my was caused on the rigging being too tight when it was put on the hard for the winter layup. I relaxed the stays and most of the depression bouced back but not completely.
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David
Larry
The inspection report stated: a wet core in the deck area of the shrouds requiring repair, weak chainplate attachment knees and bulkhead requiring repair. BTW, it was not my boat.
The inspection report stated: a wet core in the deck area of the shrouds requiring repair, weak chainplate attachment knees and bulkhead requiring repair. BTW, it was not my boat.
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terry dornan
storage
I had the same problem, and the top of the coach roof did need rework around the compression post and mast shoe. (Which is what the yard was likely referring to) However in my case the problem went away when I stopped storing the boat in the original cradle and went to stands I had the original wooden crib and what became obvious was that the keel support was deflecting and the boat was suspended on the fore and aft support plates. The dimple relaxed in about a month of proper storage.
I had the same problem, and the top of the coach roof did need rework around the compression post and mast shoe. (Which is what the yard was likely referring to) However in my case the problem went away when I stopped storing the boat in the original cradle and went to stands I had the original wooden crib and what became obvious was that the keel support was deflecting and the boat was suspended on the fore and aft support plates. The dimple relaxed in about a month of proper storage.
Simplest fix--?
Someone yelled at me once for saying this but I'll risk saying it again-- My '74 H-25 showed a little bit of a ripple in the sheer where the shrouds attached. The deck is probably cored in that spot (though it should not have been), but that is unlikely to be the problem in this case. The shrouds attach to an angle of SS bolted to the toerail so that the load is spread along more of the aluminium and the fibreglass flange. This was one of the main reasons Hunter and others used that black toerail thing. If the sheer ripple goes away when you slack the shrouds, the problem might have been poor tuning. We de-rigged this boat and I have not checked for the problem since. In any case I'll be laying up new 'glass along the hull there, backing out a few of the toerail bolts including the big ones in the chainplate, and re-glassing the hull to the deck in that area. Even if you do have water saturation the worst the job will require is that you keep grinding till it's dry and then lay up new 'glass on it. Doing this in a responsible way can never hurt anything. It's not rocket science and anyone can do it well enough. --Way easier than the equivalent job on a steel car body! Also you might drill a few pilot holes into the bottom of the deck and run a dehumdifier to draw some water out of it. Again exploration with a grinder can only require that you lay up some new glass. (ALL of this work is being done from the INSIDE, remember-- don't ever disturb decent gelcoat!) I know of people who have 're-cored' old decks by grinding out the powder and goo, drying it out, and laying up solid fibreglass with epoxy-- if you can vacuum-bag it, I'd say it'll be better than it was originally! JC 2
Someone yelled at me once for saying this but I'll risk saying it again-- My '74 H-25 showed a little bit of a ripple in the sheer where the shrouds attached. The deck is probably cored in that spot (though it should not have been), but that is unlikely to be the problem in this case. The shrouds attach to an angle of SS bolted to the toerail so that the load is spread along more of the aluminium and the fibreglass flange. This was one of the main reasons Hunter and others used that black toerail thing. If the sheer ripple goes away when you slack the shrouds, the problem might have been poor tuning. We de-rigged this boat and I have not checked for the problem since. In any case I'll be laying up new 'glass along the hull there, backing out a few of the toerail bolts including the big ones in the chainplate, and re-glassing the hull to the deck in that area. Even if you do have water saturation the worst the job will require is that you keep grinding till it's dry and then lay up new 'glass on it. Doing this in a responsible way can never hurt anything. It's not rocket science and anyone can do it well enough. --Way easier than the equivalent job on a steel car body! Also you might drill a few pilot holes into the bottom of the deck and run a dehumdifier to draw some water out of it. Again exploration with a grinder can only require that you lay up some new glass. (ALL of this work is being done from the INSIDE, remember-- don't ever disturb decent gelcoat!) I know of people who have 're-cored' old decks by grinding out the powder and goo, drying it out, and laying up solid fibreglass with epoxy-- if you can vacuum-bag it, I'd say it'll be better than it was originally! JC 2
F
Fred
Common problem
I have seen this several times in the pre '79 Hunters. To much stress is in a concentrated area drawing the side of the hull inward. The fix is to build a "knee" for the chain plate that spreads the load out and ties into a support structure.
I have seen this several times in the pre '79 Hunters. To much stress is in a concentrated area drawing the side of the hull inward. The fix is to build a "knee" for the chain plate that spreads the load out and ties into a support structure.
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