Broken Trans linkage

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Fred G

I have an 81' Hunter 30 with a Yanmar 2QM15 2 cylinder Diesel. The controls are on the pedistal(Edison). When I went to move the Trans lever, it was very difficult, then broke free, but I knew it had broken. It broke at the transmission. I can see the cable (looks like a thin tube though) moving when I move the trans shifter on the pedistal. The bolts look rusted so I assume they are not original. Any tips on how to reattach the linkage., what parts to replace it with, and how to make the linkage work smoothly?
 
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Howard

Sounds like the external sheath problem

I've had similar problems on my boat so here is how if figured out the problem: First things first does the transmision work or is it the cable? The transmission cable has 2 parts. An internal cable and an extranal sheath. The internal is a thin stainless steel stranded wire and the external is usually spiral steel covered with plastic (black or blue). The ends of the extrnal sheath are attached in a retaining clip on both ends (inside the pedistal and near the motor). With the external sheath held tight moving the lever moves the internal wire. This transmitts the motion to from the lever on the pedistal to the motor shift. The first question is does the shift lever on the motor move. If you are clear of the dock and other boats and have a friend have him/her steer and try to shift the boat into forward, reverse and neutral. You should be able to do it manually. If it shifts smoothly the problem is in the cable. You could also try this at the dock or mooring but be sure that the prop is clear or have a nice swim. (I speak from experience here) Next is to see if the internal cable moves smoothly. With the cable detached from the shift lever at the engine try to shift back and forth. You should be able to see the end of the internal cable move in and out at near the engine. If it moves easily the problem is in in the external sheath retaining clamps or in the cable ends. If it doesn't move easily the problem is the cable. You really can't fix the cables since they get corroded from the inside. Next check out the cable ends. there is a clip type arangement in the pedistal and a fork arrangement rear the engine. Take a look and make wure that they are still attached. From your description I would bet that the fork at the engine end of the cable is rusted off, bent or missing or something. If you can get the nuts off you may be able to get a replacement or make one up from a pieve of flat stock stainless steel. At this point you also need to check the external sheath retaining clips. They clamp around the external sheath and are usually screwed to a crossmember of side of the engine compartment. If they are loose or missing they need to be replaced. These clips take a bit of a load when you move the shift lever on the pedistal so they tend to loosen up and come off. You can try to find a replacement or make up a substitute. I hope that this helps.
 
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Fred G

Thanks Howard

Thanks Howard!, The linkage has detached itself at the transmission. I can see a tube moving if I stand in the cockpit, look into the engine compartment, balance on one foot, and use the other to move the lever. Unlike my former boat (68' Westerly 26) the Hunter does not have a large hatch on the floor of the cockpit that gives you easy trans/driveshaft access, so I have to get a friend to go out to the boat with me to conduct further tests. I am worried about the actual connection to the transmission. Is it possible for the cable to break? Also, if it is the transmission that is difficult to shift, what can I check/do to help this? I haven't checked the fluid level, how full is it supposed to be? Thanks again for your pointer Howard!
 
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John Tesoriero

Broken shifter

I have a 1980 H30 with the same engine and I had the same problem a few years ago. The weakest link in the entire shift system is the ball joint which connects the cable to the transmission lever. After a few years, the parts wear and the ball part comes out of its socket. You can temporarily wire the pieces together to get your boat back to the slip. Bettre yet, just replace the ball and/or socket fitting. West Marine has the parts.
 
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Howard

Prob not the trans:

The transmission should shift easily with a gentle clunk when it goes int gear. If it's stiff, I would look for rust or scale at the point that the leaver enters the transmission case. It it's clean, the problem is inside and more difficult that I can explain in this e mail. The problem is prob. the caple. The ends do break off sometimes. You need to see what has happened to the fitting on the end. On my boat the cable ends in a short threaded rod. There is a hex nut on the threads with a lock washer and then a 'U" shaped brack with a hole in the center that the rod sticks into. There is then another lock washer and hex nut. Once the "U" is on the end of the rod from the cabel there is a clevis pin that sticks through the ends of the "U" with the shift leaver in the middle. On the other end (up near the shifter in thte cockpit I have a pall joint arrangement. I've seen the ball joints at both ends (depends on the set up) and they can break. If the break it is often because the cabel is not running smooth. Good luck.
 
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Fred G

It was the linkage ; new problem.

You guys were right, it was the linkage. The threaded rod at the trans broke off. I detached it at the trans (which shifts easily by hand - Yeah!), and the pedistal, but there is a block that holds both the throttle and the trans cables that I cannot figure out how to remove and put back properly. I put a question with details in the "Ask all sailors" section. Thanks again!!
 
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