Broken Rudder

[jdearl]

I have a Hunter 170, believe it is a 1999 or 2000. Out sailing the other day and the rudder blade broke, at the top where the pivot pin goes through the rudder head. Photos attached.
So I need to get a new rudder blade. I guess I could try to repair but will save that as a last resort. Not having any luck finding just the original style blade. Did check in the parts store on this site.
Any suggestions on where to purchase new, used, someone parting out a boat, etc. would be greatly appreciated.
Have been following this site for many years but just now registered. This is my first post so hoping I did the picture upload and everything correctly.
Jeff

 

[Calif. Ted]

They have rudders for your boat here on the site, their prices are usually the same as the manufacturer with better service.
Model-Specific Rudders

 

[jdearl]

Thanks for sending that link. The price is higher than I would like to spend so maybe will keep searching for a used option.

 

[jdearl]

Tried to post in the Gear Wanted section but have to be registered for 90 days before I can do that.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Repairing at that critical point is next to impossible at the rudderhead. @chuckwayne and @rgranger
Do you know of any used parts dealers particularly in Florida that @jdearl van go to to see if there is a used H170 rudder is available?

 

[rgranger]

I’ve only had experience with rudder craft. Very excellent company

 

[JBP-PA]

Repairing at that critical point is next to impossible at the rudderhead. @chuckwayne and @rgranger

Yea, you can't glue it back together, but you can cut it back further and rebuild it. I've done a similar thing.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

@JPB-PA
Can you give a description or details how you repaired your rudder would greatly be appreciated? Many thanks

 

[JBP-PA]

I cut it back to where there was no damage as shown in the pictures. I made a "foam" core out of microballons/epoxy. I just made a rough oversize mold with cardboard and then shaved it back to my desired dimensions. I wanted the skin thicker than the original for extra strength. I ground back the remaining good skin to get at least a 12:1 bonding area, again I went a little higher than 12:1. Then I laid up glass. Mostly 1708 (in hindsight I would have used 1700 or 1200 without the CSM layer). Some woven cloth to help shape the corners. I got to my final shape with a template from the original plus testing with the rudder head, plus by eye. Then fairing and paint. I used off the shelf paint from Total Boat which is why the color doesn't quite match, but it easily passes the 10 foot rule.

 

[JBP-PA]

It broke because some idiot backed down a hill that was too steep and the rudder caught. I'm not naming names but their initials are JBP.

 

[JBP-PA]

Ok. "mostly" passes the 10ft rule.

 

[rgranger]

but it easily passes the 10 foot rule.

my new favorite rule....

 

[KeukaSailer]

Or you could make one yourself with simple hand tools...get a nice piece of 4/4 teak, mahogany, or cherry from local lumber supply. trace out the old rudder on the work piece with pencil. cut out with jig saw. use the rudder bracket to mark your holes and drill. Use router with round over bit to round the edges....and finally coat with 5 coats of spar varnish. Not only will it be cheaper, you'll have pride of making yourself, and nice wood rudder will at serious old school bling to your boat

 

[stickinthemud57]

Or you could make one yourself with simple hand tools...get a nice piece of 4/4 teak, mahogany, or cherry from local lumber supply. trace out the old rudder on the work piece with pencil. cut out with jig saw. use the rudder bracket to mark your holes and drill. Use router with round over bit to round the edges....and finally coat with 5 coats of spar varnish. Not only will it be cheaper, you'll have pride of making yourself, and nice wood rudder will at serious old school bling to your boat

I like the look of that (in my mind's eye). A possible problem might be the difference in buoyancy. If a lighter rudder makes it more difficult to lower it fully (i.e. when it has kicked up and you are trying to pull it back into place when you are underway), that could be problematic. I would add that if the OP does craft their own that they try to replicate the "airfoil" shape of the stock rudder. When I went to an airfoil rudder for my MacGregor 26S I realized how much better that design is than a simple blade - better pointing at all speeds and and less stalling at low speeds.

 

[PaulK]

If the setup is like it shows in the photo in post #11, it would be easy to bolt uprights on both sides of the broken rudder, cut to match the original shape. With a hole drilled through them and a new pin for the tiller to pivot on, it would be better (stronger!)than new. You could use aluminum or Stainless steel sheets, a strong wooden board, or perhaps even Starboard.