My new "old" 1988 C-30 has woodwork in poor condition. I like the traditional look of varnished teak. My best guess is to seal with two coats of epoxy, top with 5 to 6 coats of varnish and finish with 2 to 3 coats of polyurethane. I have all the teak off of the boat. Any experience with or opinions of this system? Plan to use System 3 products.
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Refinish
Art, Sand everything down to 220 finish, vacuum, apply a good quality varnish, sand with 220 after 3rd coat, after 5th coat, slightly thin 6th coat. Let dry, install, enjoy. A light sanding yearly and a new coat of varnish will keep it up.
Art, Sand everything down to 220 finish, vacuum, apply a good quality varnish, sand with 220 after 3rd coat, after 5th coat, slightly thin 6th coat. Let dry, install, enjoy. A light sanding yearly and a new coat of varnish will keep it up.
Don't epoxy
Unless you're militant about your brightwork (don't fool yourself, you won't be), you'll regret using epoxy. As soon as the varnish fails, the epoxy will turn white from UV burn and then you'll be up a very ugly creek. Follow John's instructions and don't bother with the polyurethane. LaDonna
Unless you're militant about your brightwork (don't fool yourself, you won't be), you'll regret using epoxy. As soon as the varnish fails, the epoxy will turn white from UV burn and then you'll be up a very ugly creek. Follow John's instructions and don't bother with the polyurethane. LaDonna
Art the epoxy
is probably the best way to go. The April 2002 issue of SAIL magazine has an excellent article by Ken Textor on the epoxy method. In summary, the hard part is the initial preparation and epoxy application. After that it is an easy job of applying varnish. He adds, be sure to use a varnish that has UV inhibitors.
is probably the best way to go. The April 2002 issue of SAIL magazine has an excellent article by Ken Textor on the epoxy method. In summary, the hard part is the initial preparation and epoxy application. After that it is an easy job of applying varnish. He adds, be sure to use a varnish that has UV inhibitors.
Here is something to consider.
Art: Here is a product to consider. Waterlox (http://www.waterlox.com/). It is made from Tung Oil and has UV protectant in their marine version. Practical Sailor had an article on marine finishes. One of the higher scoring ones was Epafines (sp?) I'd agree with LaDonna, when the varnish goes you will have a LOT of sanding on your hands trying to get the epoxy off, so you can start over again. Once you complete your brightwork, get covers for you teak. This makes it last a lot longer without the sun beating down on the 10-12 hours a day.
Art: Here is a product to consider. Waterlox (http://www.waterlox.com/). It is made from Tung Oil and has UV protectant in their marine version. Practical Sailor had an article on marine finishes. One of the higher scoring ones was Epafines (sp?) I'd agree with LaDonna, when the varnish goes you will have a LOT of sanding on your hands trying to get the epoxy off, so you can start over again. Once you complete your brightwork, get covers for you teak. This makes it last a lot longer without the sun beating down on the 10-12 hours a day.
cetol light with gloss
No it is not varnished teak, but you don't have to retouch every other month (once per year).
No it is not varnished teak, but you don't have to retouch every other month (once per year).
Cetol Gloss
Debra: Have you had fairly good luck with the Cetol Gloss? I have heard some complain that it tends to crack and peel. I personally like the Cetol Light. It lets the grain show through better and seems to hold up well. It is just not for everyone. Some would rather work on their boat than take it out of the slip <g>. This also helps save the sails. <g>
Debra: Have you had fairly good luck with the Cetol Gloss? I have heard some complain that it tends to crack and peel. I personally like the Cetol Light. It lets the grain show through better and seems to hold up well. It is just not for everyone. Some would rather work on their boat than take it out of the slip <g>. This also helps save the sails. <g>
Steve, I just have one thing to say...
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." Whether it's sailing on a windy day or varnishing on a calm day, at least I'm on the boat!
LaDonna
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." Whether it's sailing on a windy day or varnishing on a calm day, at least I'm on the boat!
LaDonnaPolyurethane.
I have seen a few posts about polyurethane. What seem to not be realized is that most hull paints are polyurethane now. There are several brands of clear polyurethane on the market with excellent UV blocking properties. I have used them on Moonrise and they do not turn white or hazy over the course of the season. After the inital sanding and coats I apply 1 to 2 coats at the begining of the season to seal the areas that have been dinged over the course of the season. You have to do that with varnish also to prevent it from lifting from underneath by water and mildew intrusion. Polyurethane is a excellent product with many applications that is very resiliant, just make sure you get the right one for your application as there are many different kinds.
I have seen a few posts about polyurethane. What seem to not be realized is that most hull paints are polyurethane now. There are several brands of clear polyurethane on the market with excellent UV blocking properties. I have used them on Moonrise and they do not turn white or hazy over the course of the season. After the inital sanding and coats I apply 1 to 2 coats at the begining of the season to seal the areas that have been dinged over the course of the season. You have to do that with varnish also to prevent it from lifting from underneath by water and mildew intrusion. Polyurethane is a excellent product with many applications that is very resiliant, just make sure you get the right one for your application as there are many different kinds.
Cetol on sale at boat us
I have used the Sikkens, Cetol on teak for many years and have had good results. If you are interested it is on sale 2 cans for the price of one at BoatUS. This is only on sale till Feb 16th, 2003. http://www.boatus-store.com/monthlyflyer/01.asp
I have used the Sikkens, Cetol on teak for many years and have had good results. If you are interested it is on sale 2 cans for the price of one at BoatUS. This is only on sale till Feb 16th, 2003. http://www.boatus-store.com/monthlyflyer/01.asp
4 coats Cetol & 1 coat gloss
Steve - I haven't gotten the gloss on yet. I have 4 coats of Cetol light. There is a boat in the same marina that has 4 + 1 and it was a year before it showed wear.
Steve - I haven't gotten the gloss on yet. I have 4 coats of Cetol light. There is a boat in the same marina that has 4 + 1 and it was a year before it showed wear.
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