Brightwork question

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Dec 9, 2008
426
1980 Hunter 30 "Denali" Seaford, VA
Hello,

I've had the new to us H30 for a couple of months now and as I get through the projects I can't help but think that I should restore the brightwork. For the most part it's not hard to figure out, but that long stip that runs along the cabin side... how do you sand that? I have a black and decker 'mouse' that I figure I'll use but I wonder if there is something better out there.

thanks!

Jon
 

Scott

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Sep 24, 1997
242
Hunter 31_83-87 Middle River, Md
After using an electric sander for years on the narrow strip of teak trim along the coach top, it eventually became flat and thin. Made new trim, and will sand it using rubber sanding blocks. A package of 5 can be purchased at Woodcraft for about $6. At least a bunch of years ago they could. They're about 2.5" long, 1.25" high, with 1 concave edge of various radii for sanding small rounded surfaces.
Hope this helps.
 
Dec 9, 2008
426
1980 Hunter 30 "Denali" Seaford, VA
I thought about hand sanding it, but I kinda think that the PO had just let the teak go natural and that I might need to get it down a bit. The B&D Mouse has a concave attachment for nose of it that I thought would work well and keep it rounded.

I may get some sanding pads just in case and see how each works. Not exactly a fun project but it will look better...
 

Paul F

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Jun 3, 2004
827
Hunter 1980 - 33 Bradenton
What also works

Almost no work involved. Use Olympic Deck Cleaner to prepare the brightwork and then use Dyco Paints Inc. WB40 Dock N Deck to finish. Looks and lasts well.
http://www.olympic.com/stain_products/exterior_stains/cleaners/index.htm
and
http://www.dycopaints.com/Wood-Stain.asp?details=41

Water based is very easy to use. Put about seven coats of stain on after taping off the brightwork. This will last two to three years and then it is easy to refresh with the cleaner and stain as time goes by.
 
May 31, 2007
776
Hunter 37 cutter Blind River
Personally I think that eyebrow is a very bad idea. It provides no structure and demands many holes through the glass into the core. Great place for leaks and rotting wood. It is also very finickety to re-finish. I removed mine, filled the screwholes then painted a black stripe instead. No muss, no fuss, no leaks from now on.
 
Mar 22, 2004
733
Hunter 30 Vero Beach
We just re-did ours on our H30 a few weeks ago. The admiral sanded it by hand then coated with 6 coats of Epifanes. All of the previous owners must have sanded and varnished many times before I did it. someone told me that that strip, when the boat was new, was 3/4" thick. mine's less than 1/2" thick now. Don't know how true that is, but I wouldn't doubt it.

Dave
 
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