I'm going to refinish my brightwork AGAIN this spring. Need suggestions on best products.Nothing holds up more than 2 years--at best. I sail on L.I. Sound and keep boat covered in winter. Thanks
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David
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Wulfe
Epifanes
Practical Sailor tested several products for three years, and I believe one of the Epifanes products was rated as the best for long-term quality of finish. I will look it up this evening and post the specific product then, unless someone else remembers? Fair winds, Wulfe s/v Jenny-Anne
Practical Sailor tested several products for three years, and I believe one of the Epifanes products was rated as the best for long-term quality of finish. I will look it up this evening and post the specific product then, unless someone else remembers? Fair winds, Wulfe s/v Jenny-Anne
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LaDonna Bubak - CatalinaOwners.com
What do expect from your finish?
There are several factors to consider when chosing a finish. Do you want to put it on & then never touch it again? Won't happen. EVERY finish needs *some* maintenance. Do you want it to last for a couple of years before having to maintain it? Try Cetol, Armada, West Marine WoodPro though you'll get an ugly (in my opinion) painted look. Bristol Finish boasts that it can last 2-3 years in Florida without maintenance AND it has the look of varnish. Application is tricky though and if not done properly, you could be in for a world of hurt. If you don't mind maintenance, and it sounds like you do, varnish is relatively cheap and very traditional. Epifanes is my preferred varnish but there are several good ones (don't bother with the cheapie ones). At least once a season, you have to sand the brightwork and apply 2-3 coats of new varnish to keep up the UV protection. Oil is easy but washes away faster than you can put it on. Besides, a truly beautiful oil finish is just as much, if not more, work than varnish! There are other products out there but I don't have personal experience with any of them. I've heard positive things about HoneyTeak. I have no doubt folks here will chime in with their opinions - this is really a hot topic! Check the archives under varnish or brightwork if you don't believe me!! LaDonna
There are several factors to consider when chosing a finish. Do you want to put it on & then never touch it again? Won't happen. EVERY finish needs *some* maintenance. Do you want it to last for a couple of years before having to maintain it? Try Cetol, Armada, West Marine WoodPro though you'll get an ugly (in my opinion) painted look. Bristol Finish boasts that it can last 2-3 years in Florida without maintenance AND it has the look of varnish. Application is tricky though and if not done properly, you could be in for a world of hurt. If you don't mind maintenance, and it sounds like you do, varnish is relatively cheap and very traditional. Epifanes is my preferred varnish but there are several good ones (don't bother with the cheapie ones). At least once a season, you have to sand the brightwork and apply 2-3 coats of new varnish to keep up the UV protection. Oil is easy but washes away faster than you can put it on. Besides, a truly beautiful oil finish is just as much, if not more, work than varnish! There are other products out there but I don't have personal experience with any of them. I've heard positive things about HoneyTeak. I have no doubt folks here will chime in with their opinions - this is really a hot topic! Check the archives under varnish or brightwork if you don't believe me!! LaDonna
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Eric Swift
While on the subject
of brightwork. I am trying to stay away from a product that is opaque or that has an orange cast to it. Been a wood worker too long! So I would like to have a clear finish but want to use the best that is out there. Sikkens Cetol is too orange even in their "light" variety. Any suggestions? (I will also check the archives).
of brightwork. I am trying to stay away from a product that is opaque or that has an orange cast to it. Been a wood worker too long! So I would like to have a clear finish but want to use the best that is out there. Sikkens Cetol is too orange even in their "light" variety. Any suggestions? (I will also check the archives).
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Dick of Sylvan
Varnish
Modern spar varnish with uv protection (one of the more expensive brands) works well for me in sunny western Wyoming. I try to keep the woodwork covered with a tarp when not sailing, and I do touch it up every couple of years, but that is easy and the result is always so pleasing that it is well worth the little effort involved. Dick
Modern spar varnish with uv protection (one of the more expensive brands) works well for me in sunny western Wyoming. I try to keep the woodwork covered with a tarp when not sailing, and I do touch it up every couple of years, but that is easy and the result is always so pleasing that it is well worth the little effort involved. Dick
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Derek Rowell
I purchased a pack of....
... Bristol Finish at the Newport Boat show last fall. I really like the high gloss varnish look. The samples and photos looked gorgeous and the salesman gave me the extreme low maintenance story, and did the cigarette lighter trick to show me how flame resistant it was, etc, etc. Sounded just too good... Then I looked some threads on other bulletin boards, and they were filled with horror stories about application difficulties and the stuff turning white, etc. There were just too many (extremely) negative comments for me, and I decided not to risk using it. The company insists that all of the bad results are caused by not following the directions. Wanna buy it cheap? Derek
... Bristol Finish at the Newport Boat show last fall. I really like the high gloss varnish look. The samples and photos looked gorgeous and the salesman gave me the extreme low maintenance story, and did the cigarette lighter trick to show me how flame resistant it was, etc, etc. Sounded just too good... Then I looked some threads on other bulletin boards, and they were filled with horror stories about application difficulties and the stuff turning white, etc. There were just too many (extremely) negative comments for me, and I decided not to risk using it. The company insists that all of the bad results are caused by not following the directions. Wanna buy it cheap? Derek
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Bob Todd
David...
I second Cetol! Properly applied it lasts for years with only minor touch-ups. Mine has stood up to the New England weather for five years and still looks good. However, I will be stripping all of the exterior teak off my boat and will be replacing it with a resin based material. No more maintenance! Yeah, I know there are some real die-hards out there, but I go to the boat to go sailing, not to refinish wood. Labor of love? I don't think so, just plain labor. Cheers, Bob Linkage to my web page below.
I second Cetol! Properly applied it lasts for years with only minor touch-ups. Mine has stood up to the New England weather for five years and still looks good. However, I will be stripping all of the exterior teak off my boat and will be replacing it with a resin based material. No more maintenance! Yeah, I know there are some real die-hards out there, but I go to the boat to go sailing, not to refinish wood. Labor of love? I don't think so, just plain labor. Cheers, Bob Linkage to my web page below.
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Jim Willis
Sick of Sikkens- anybody tried Teak Shield?
I am in the process of investigating Teak products too. I first used Dexalay (sor to yellowish) and it did look nice on cleaned and bleached Teak. Then I used Cetol- awful to clean up and I don't like the orange finish although this can be minimized by applying thinly like french polish on a rag. I tried my own Superwax which was great on interior teak, but did not hold up well (less than a year on doors, less on flat surfaces) although it still beads water and even light sanding exposes the good Teak. Now I am trying a new mix that has held up nicely no in HI for about 5-6 months and is honey colored but not slippery underfoot (apply like oil, but not shiny like varnish). I have always thought that something like this might be nice on teak decks. I also have some Teak Shield that I have not tried (two part) and possible could use my stuff as a sealant underneath. ANy feedback on Teak Shield? It is a two part material but might be hell to remove if I don't like it! Anbody? Jim W
I am in the process of investigating Teak products too. I first used Dexalay (sor to yellowish) and it did look nice on cleaned and bleached Teak. Then I used Cetol- awful to clean up and I don't like the orange finish although this can be minimized by applying thinly like french polish on a rag. I tried my own Superwax which was great on interior teak, but did not hold up well (less than a year on doors, less on flat surfaces) although it still beads water and even light sanding exposes the good Teak. Now I am trying a new mix that has held up nicely no in HI for about 5-6 months and is honey colored but not slippery underfoot (apply like oil, but not shiny like varnish). I have always thought that something like this might be nice on teak decks. I also have some Teak Shield that I have not tried (two part) and possible could use my stuff as a sealant underneath. ANy feedback on Teak Shield? It is a two part material but might be hell to remove if I don't like it! Anbody? Jim W
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Les Murray
Derek, do not be afraid of Bristol Finish!
Derek, I have been using Bristol Finish for two years now and swear by it. I usually find that herre in NE, I can get one to two years out of an application. The prep work and application method is just like varnish, except the ability to apply wet-on-wet. I usually apply four or five coats one day, then come back the following weekend, sand the finish, and apply the remaining three or four coats to get a nice finish. I have not had any problems with yellowing or milky appearance. Surface prep is the key. Let me know if you have any questions or really want to get rid of the stuff. I will take it. Les Murray s/v Ceilidh '86 C-36 #560 Bristol, RI
Derek, I have been using Bristol Finish for two years now and swear by it. I usually find that herre in NE, I can get one to two years out of an application. The prep work and application method is just like varnish, except the ability to apply wet-on-wet. I usually apply four or five coats one day, then come back the following weekend, sand the finish, and apply the remaining three or four coats to get a nice finish. I have not had any problems with yellowing or milky appearance. Surface prep is the key. Let me know if you have any questions or really want to get rid of the stuff. I will take it. Les Murray s/v Ceilidh '86 C-36 #560 Bristol, RI
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