I am going to install a bow roller on my Hunter 31. There are bolts on the bow plate which run through the rail that I can use, because the back side is exposed. There is on screw which is at the back of the plate that I would like to use. Because of the anchor locker I cannot tell if this screw goes into a nut and washer or a permanent plate. If it is a nut then I will need to cut an access into the anchor locker to get access to this. Does anyone know for sure.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
L
Laura Bertran
We Did This
There is a metal plate under the bow plate and extending aft under the first several inches of fiberglass deck. The bow plate bolts thread into that plate and you can add more bolt holes and cut a bolt thread in the plate. Let me know if you need any clarification. Laura Bertran 1985 H31, Rising Tide Annapolis, MD
There is a metal plate under the bow plate and extending aft under the first several inches of fiberglass deck. The bow plate bolts thread into that plate and you can add more bolt holes and cut a bolt thread in the plate. Let me know if you need any clarification. Laura Bertran 1985 H31, Rising Tide Annapolis, MD
R
Rip Edmundson
Picture?
Laura, Could you post a photo of your installation? Or Email one to me? I would love to add a bow roller. Thanks, Rip Edmundson rip@edmundson.com
Laura, Could you post a photo of your installation? Or Email one to me? I would love to add a bow roller. Thanks, Rip Edmundson rip@edmundson.com
B
Brett
Thanks
I will be removing the aft-most screw closest to the centerline this weekend to check this. If I understand correctly you are confirming that this screw will in fact be a bolt going into a tapped metal plate that is under the deck. I will be adding one more bolt through the rail about 2 inches back from the bow. This one will go through the hull/deck flang and have a nut and washer on the underside. This new bolt in addition to an existing one on the rail will give me two bolts forward. I will then use previously mentioned aft bolt and then I was hoping to drill and tap the bow plate and add one more bolt aft. What I should do is drill all the way through the metal plate under the deck and tap only the plate below the deck. Maybe I could take some pictures as I proceed. I always seem to forget the camara when I am focused on work.
I will be removing the aft-most screw closest to the centerline this weekend to check this. If I understand correctly you are confirming that this screw will in fact be a bolt going into a tapped metal plate that is under the deck. I will be adding one more bolt through the rail about 2 inches back from the bow. This one will go through the hull/deck flang and have a nut and washer on the underside. This new bolt in addition to an existing one on the rail will give me two bolts forward. I will then use previously mentioned aft bolt and then I was hoping to drill and tap the bow plate and add one more bolt aft. What I should do is drill all the way through the metal plate under the deck and tap only the plate below the deck. Maybe I could take some pictures as I proceed. I always seem to forget the camara when I am focused on work.
M
Michael O'
Pictures please
I'd enjoy seeing the pictures of bow rollers on the H'31. That's one improvement that I've considered for years, but haven't spent the time (and money) to upgrade. I would also appreciate hearing how much the upgrade cost and what the hassle factor was in the installation, etc. Of course, the next issue would be a windlass!
I'd enjoy seeing the pictures of bow rollers on the H'31. That's one improvement that I've considered for years, but haven't spent the time (and money) to upgrade. I would also appreciate hearing how much the upgrade cost and what the hassle factor was in the installation, etc. Of course, the next issue would be a windlass!
L
Laura Bertran
I'll take a picture...
...when I'm on the boat this weekend. We bought the bow roller from Garhauer. I don't remember the cost but it wasn't too bad. And just to clarify, yes, you do tap into the metal (I think aluminum) plate that is sandwiched under the bow plate and the first few inches of fiberglass deck aft of the bow plate. I also installed a Windline opening chock that I use to lock the anchor in the roller and also to run the rode fair to the cleat when the anchor is deployed. The bolts securing this chock also go into the tapped plate. I'll figure out how to post the pictures once I get them. Laura Bertran
...when I'm on the boat this weekend. We bought the bow roller from Garhauer. I don't remember the cost but it wasn't too bad. And just to clarify, yes, you do tap into the metal (I think aluminum) plate that is sandwiched under the bow plate and the first few inches of fiberglass deck aft of the bow plate. I also installed a Windline opening chock that I use to lock the anchor in the roller and also to run the rode fair to the cleat when the anchor is deployed. The bolts securing this chock also go into the tapped plate. I'll figure out how to post the pictures once I get them. Laura Bertran
B
Brett
That would be great!
Your response is much appreciated. I made up a cardboard template from measurements. I will be verifying the template on the boat this weekend before drilling the holes in the bow roller. Knowing how far back the metal plate under the deck goes would be useful. Your pictures would show me how far back you were able to go. I will fill the rest of my week with finishing screen inserts for the overhead hatches. And yes I will try real hard to remember to take pictures as I go.
Your response is much appreciated. I made up a cardboard template from measurements. I will be verifying the template on the boat this weekend before drilling the holes in the bow roller. Knowing how far back the metal plate under the deck goes would be useful. Your pictures would show me how far back you were able to go. I will fill the rest of my week with finishing screen inserts for the overhead hatches. And yes I will try real hard to remember to take pictures as I go.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.