Bow Pulpit

[BrianW]

Hi All: I'm removing and replacing my 1994 H26 bow pulpit and a forward port stanchion that was damaged during Tropical Storm Cindy. Any advice on removing the old and installing the new pulpit and stanchion would be greatly appreciated. Also, info on how they're installed would be helpful. Do the mounting screws go through embedded

 

[Dale Wile]

Special Tool

I can't give you specific information about the method of mounting the bow pulpit, but I can tell you about my experience replacing the stern railing on my Hunter 23.5. I, too, met the immovable object in trying to loosen the mounting screws. The "helpful hardward guy" sold me a tool that did the job. I don't know what it is called, but it is a heavy steel screwdiver-like device that holds different bits (slotted, phillips, etc.). With the bit in the screw, you hit the opposite end of the tool with a hammer. It is like an impact air-hammer, without the air. A ring on the tool allows you to set it for left or right rotation, to back out a screw or to tighten a screw. I'm sure I could not have removed the bolts without that tool. From my experience, most of the fasteners on the Hunter are threaded bolts tapped into backing plates, and do not have nuts on the inside. Hope this helps.

 

[BrianW]

Impact Screwdriver?

Dale, it sound like you used an impact screwdriver. Another question... were the backing plates embedded into the boat's fiberglass and have threaded holes for the mounting screws....or did you have to get access from underneath the deck to a non-embedded backing plate (threaded or with nuts)? Your info about the impact screwdriver was very helpful! Any more info from you or anyone else would be great. Thanks! Brian

 

[Dale Wile]

Yes and yes.

Yes, the backing plates were threaded and embeded. No nuts, and no need to access the interior. In other words, this was an "outside job."

 

[BrianW]

Thanks Dale!

This will make my life MUCH easier.

 

[John Van Wagoner]

Stanchion replacement

Brian, I am in the process of changing out all of my stanchion bases, gates, bow and stern rails due to storm damage over memorial day weekend. The easiest part has been the stanchion bases. So far I have removed 10 of them, including the bases for the gates on a 410. Here are several tips: start with a screw driver. If that doesnt work use a socket wrench with a philips head tip in a socket. I use an extension also. If that dosent work use the impact tool, just as Dale described. That usually does the trick. If you stip the head so that you can't use either of these tools, then as a last resort (and I had to do this), use a Dremel tool to cut off the head of the bolt. Once you get the stanchion off the bolt should protrude above the deck about 1/4 inch. Grab it with vice grips and twist. The heat from the cutting will generally loosen the corrosion that causes the bolt to bind in the aluminum. When reassembling use antisieze on the ends of the bolts. Stainless into aluminum is bad news if any water gets in...real bad corrosion. Good news...I got all stanchion bases off. Generally it took a little muscle to get the bolt to turn slightly, but once it did a few more turns and it came out easily. Now if I can only get the new stanchion bases to fit in the existing holes in my deck.

 

[BrianW]

Great Info John!

Thanks! Your tip on cutting the stripped screw head off sounds much much simpler than the alternate drilling and tapping method that I was dreading. I can now put more muscle into it without as much worry. I too will be holding my breath to see if my new stanchion & bow rails fit in the same deck holes. Thanks again, Brian