Bow or stern first docking

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Apr 12, 2005
263
Hunter 36 Cobb Island
Well I finally got my boat to Colonial Beach. I had a hard time getting the boat in the slip. Tried both ways, ended up tying up bow first. Which way is more suited for solo sailing? Any suggestions for approaching/leaving the dock Solo? TIA.
 
Jan 2, 2005
779
Hunter 35.5 Legend Lake Travis-Austin,TX
Practice, practice

With practice, you'll be doing it easily in no time. How is everyone else in the marina oriented, there may be a good reason for that. As has been said here before, don't come in any faster than you want to hit anything. Sometimes, stern first will take away any sense of privacy while you're in the cockpit or salon at the dock. Learn to use prop walk to your advantage. Have your fenders and dock lines ready ahead of time. Current, tides, prevailing winds... there are more variables than you give details on.
 
F

Franklin

I single hand everytime....

and used to go in bow first. It was a lot easier to get into the slip that way, but I always had problem slowing down enough and get the boat tied down before either prop walk or wind blew around. I re-anaylized the situtation and realized four things 1) the fact that my boat has a built in bumper near the deck, the bummer matched up with the slip if I came in stern first 2) I enjoy the stern entry of the boat from the dock instead of the port entry from the finger 3) I could use the techneque in the archives where I can dock single handed and not leaving the cockpit if I go in stern first** 4) I seem to have more control of the speed because I come to a complete stop and then back in. ** Run a line from the mid cleat outside the lifelines to the cockpit. create a big loop and hang over lifeline. Then run backup past mid cleat outside of lifelines. Bring that end back inside lifelines and to a winch. When backing in, just after the stern enters the slip, reach over and throw that loop around bow cleat on the finger (keep in reverse while doing this). Pull slack out of line from the winch. As the boat moves back, the line will tighten, bring the boat to a stop and pull it to the finger. keep giving slack slowly to allow the boat to back up to where you want it. When you got it all backed up, turn the engine off, hop off and tie off your bow and stern lines and your all done. Now I have to admit, backing is harder, but if you give yourself enough room to get your speed up, you can steer it in on the first try. The trick is to pass your slip up a bit before you stop. If you don't, you will run out of room before you get up enough speed to have steering.
 
F

Franklin

BTW

I forgot to add, I am parking a 376 in a 38' slip. My slip is only 2' wider then my boat and the passageway between my dock and the next dock is only 5-7' wider then the length of my boat. It's very tight so if I can do it, anybody can.
 
Apr 12, 2005
263
Hunter 36 Cobb Island
Franklin: Backing into a slip

"Then run backup past mid cleat outside of lifelines. Bring that end back inside lifelines and to a winch"? I am not sure what you mean?
 
M

Mark

It may go without saying

But I'll say it anyway. Leave a set of docklines at your slip. Mark
 
F

Franklin

picture it like this....

it's easiest to picture the end result. What your trying to achieve is the line goes from the midship cleat, raps around the bow finger (dock) cleat and then back up to a winch. You use the end at the winch to control to location of the boat. Now for it to work correctly, you have to position this line in a way that the lifelines (the wires around the side of the boat to help keep you onboard) don't get in the way. I can't tell you exactly how to run the line because each boat is different, but I'm sure you can figure it out. If this doesn't do it for you, check the archives for a thread about 4 weeks ago. That's where I got the idea. I've tried it 5 times and it's worked perfectly for me in different wind directions and speed.
 
B

Bill O'Donovan

Cheat sheet

1. Bow in when docking, it's easier. 2. Eye the wind direction and parlay it. 3. Slow down but don't stall the boat. 4. Coast for last 30 seconds. 5. Then reverse to stop dead in the water. 6. Affix first spring line to avoid ramming. 7. Affix first bowling to stay in slip. 8. The rest of the lines are details.
 
T

Tony

Docking Primer

Check out Jack Klang at link attached (http://www.quantumsails.com/pdf/maneuvering.pdf Best primer on docking i'ever seen t
 
F

Franklin

Primer

On page 8 it shows a diagram of going in bow first using the method I tried to described. The problem with that is that somebody needs to be up front to throw the line over the cleat and that's not possible when docking solo. That's why I go in stern first...so as soon as I got the stern is in the slip, I can reach over and throw the line around the cleat without leaving the cockpit. Another thing to note: it seems that the diagram shows the end at the helm. I run the end to a winch first, then back to the helm.
 
Mar 20, 2004
1,746
Hunter 356 and 216 Portland, ME
docking

Mark's got a good approach-we use a "dockmate"-a dockmounted pole with a hook on top to hold a premeasured bow line and spring line. we have a very tight approach in a busy slipway with a sharp turn into our slip. we back in, and pick up the two lines while idling in reverse-you drop the spring line on the midships cleat, and go forward and tie the bow-the spring and the engine hold the stern to the dock, and the bowline keeps the bow from blowing out-you can then secure the stern at your leasure
 
F

Franklin

but...

Do you do when you have to dock at another dock and it's a tight fit? That's what I like about the approach of doing it all from a line on the boat...no matter where you go, where the wind is from, who you have with you, or how tight it is, it works the same everytime. I used to have a line running across the slip to stop the boat but guys on the dock kept asking...what are you going to do when you have to dock someplace else. Well...now I have an answer :)
 
M

Mark

It may go without saying

But you can (should) have a set of docklines for your regular slip that are pre-measured (and pre-marked for cleat position) and another set for foreign slips. These need to be more versatile since you don't know where you will end up. Mark
 
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