I’ve just recently purchased (got a good deal) on a ’83 Mac 25. 1st time I took it out of the water I discovered a problem, one that a few others to this forum have had. The bow eye, where the trailer winch rope is attached, is coming out (more than an inch). I read how others have backed the nuts inside w/ a larger surface plate, but wonder how they got to it. I’m over 6’, crawling into the V-birth head 1st is hard enough, but gaining access to the eye nuts required my arm to be triple jointed. Inner liner to the boat is blocking direct access to the nuts; only a small access slot on the top. I can see the nuts w/ a flashlight & mirror, but can’t reach them. How has anyone gained access? My thought was to cut a hole, ~6-9” in dia. Make the diameter the size of a plug of some sort I can find (like you have on a kayak for water-tight compartment). This leaves access for later use, but closes the hole, looks nice. Sound like a plan? Tom
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Good plan
You can buy those plugs,I think they're called inspection plates,at pretty much any marine supply outlet and they're not expensive.Use a hole saw,some 4200 sealant and a few ss screws and you're done.It'll look good and you can gain access easily anytime.
You can buy those plugs,I think they're called inspection plates,at pretty much any marine supply outlet and they're not expensive.Use a hole saw,some 4200 sealant and a few ss screws and you're done.It'll look good and you can gain access easily anytime.
Bow Eye fixed
I was able to buy a 4" "screw-out deckplate" from a local marine supplier; only ~$9. Gave me access to the bow eye; added a piece of Al. plate (bent to fit the curve of the bow), eye is much more secure. I also had problems w/ the trailer winch; angle isn't quite correct to fully pull & hold boat into front rubber bumper. I added an eye above the winch, on the trailer, use a turnbuckle to tighten & hold the boat in the bumper. Thanks for the replies; as a new sailboat owner, I can really use the help. Ciao, Tom
I was able to buy a 4" "screw-out deckplate" from a local marine supplier; only ~$9. Gave me access to the bow eye; added a piece of Al. plate (bent to fit the curve of the bow), eye is much more secure. I also had problems w/ the trailer winch; angle isn't quite correct to fully pull & hold boat into front rubber bumper. I added an eye above the winch, on the trailer, use a turnbuckle to tighten & hold the boat in the bumper. Thanks for the replies; as a new sailboat owner, I can really use the help. Ciao, Tom
Mine too
Hello Tom: On my C22 the bow eye nuts are accessible but were starting to put a big strain on the fiberglas. I bent a piece of SS for a backing plate to conform to the V shape of the bow. I also welded a bar into this V to tie off the anchor rode. I built a 6" SS high box to raise the boat winch because the angle was not right & installed a turnbuckle as a back up. Also added a couple of aluminum "wings" about 5" X 8" (carpet lined) to guide the bow into the rubber bumpers. Regards, Bob B.
Hello Tom: On my C22 the bow eye nuts are accessible but were starting to put a big strain on the fiberglas. I bent a piece of SS for a backing plate to conform to the V shape of the bow. I also welded a bar into this V to tie off the anchor rode. I built a 6" SS high box to raise the boat winch because the angle was not right & installed a turnbuckle as a back up. Also added a couple of aluminum "wings" about 5" X 8" (carpet lined) to guide the bow into the rubber bumpers. Regards, Bob B.
Pretty much the same
I've restored 3 Mac's now and all had the same problem. But, I don't agree with the bent to fit backing. Instead, fill the void between the FLAT backing plate with epoxy, either mixed with micro balloons or built up with fiber glass. You may need a new longer U bolt for your bow eye, but this is much stronger, it spreds the pull on the backing plate and gives a flat surface for the washers and nuts.
I've restored 3 Mac's now and all had the same problem. But, I don't agree with the bent to fit backing. Instead, fill the void between the FLAT backing plate with epoxy, either mixed with micro balloons or built up with fiber glass. You may need a new longer U bolt for your bow eye, but this is much stronger, it spreds the pull on the backing plate and gives a flat surface for the washers and nuts.
Mine Too
Greg: I could have described my bow eye backing plate better. The original was a shaped wooden block, glassed to fit the V bow but flat where the washers & nuts make contact. It seemed a bit small to take the strain of the winch etc. My 1/8" SS backing plate is placed onto this wooden block so it also has about a 2" flat area for the washers & nuts, then angled 3" long "wings" to contact the hull. Much more contact area than the original. The SS plate is glued with epoxy putty to the original & to the hull to fill any gaps & of course the nuts are pulling it all together. I welded a 1/4" SS bar between the two "wings" to keep them more rigid & to tie off the rode. Also installed a SS plate outside the hull, between the bow eye & the hull as the holes in the hull looked to be too large & looked like hell. (See photo in previous response) The bolts are long enough for this added thickness. Regards, Bob B.
Greg: I could have described my bow eye backing plate better. The original was a shaped wooden block, glassed to fit the V bow but flat where the washers & nuts make contact. It seemed a bit small to take the strain of the winch etc. My 1/8" SS backing plate is placed onto this wooden block so it also has about a 2" flat area for the washers & nuts, then angled 3" long "wings" to contact the hull. Much more contact area than the original. The SS plate is glued with epoxy putty to the original & to the hull to fill any gaps & of course the nuts are pulling it all together. I welded a 1/4" SS bar between the two "wings" to keep them more rigid & to tie off the rode. Also installed a SS plate outside the hull, between the bow eye & the hull as the holes in the hull looked to be too large & looked like hell. (See photo in previous response) The bolts are long enough for this added thickness. Regards, Bob B.
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