Greetings. I recently picked up this 1977 Hunter 27. All is well with the exception of the attached picture. I don't know what to call this piece, I know that its on the bow and that it needs fixing. Actually, it reminds me of a toenail that is about to break. Does anyone have an idea as to a correct fix? The dangling toenail piece is really brittle, from inside the v berth, I can see way too much daylight!!!!
Bow crack/ hole help???
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Resin and filler
I would build it back up with resin and glass mat filler pieces to seal the exposed glass mat and fill in what looks like a very large ding. Can't tell if it is a casting or just part of the deck mold from the picure. Top it off with some epoxy putty, sand and repaint to match. Headstay load appears to be taken by the stay strap on the bow below the furler drum in the picture.
I would build it back up with resin and glass mat filler pieces to seal the exposed glass mat and fill in what looks like a very large ding. Can't tell if it is a casting or just part of the deck mold from the picure. Top it off with some epoxy putty, sand and repaint to match. Headstay load appears to be taken by the stay strap on the bow below the furler drum in the picture.
I agree with Dan
Doesn't look like a load bearing part. Just patch and paint for a waterproof fix to keep water out of the glass.
Doesn't look like a load bearing part. Just patch and paint for a waterproof fix to keep water out of the glass.
Problem is !
Line runs over that piece and potentially under a great deal of pressure. We have the same piece on our boat and it broke because the mooring line battered it. I was told by a boat yard that filling it would not hold up. So, I made up a 1/4" thick plate of aluminum. it looks like crap but it seems to have done the job so far. If anyone has a more elegant solution I would be interested as well.
Line runs over that piece and potentially under a great deal of pressure. We have the same piece on our boat and it broke because the mooring line battered it. I was told by a boat yard that filling it would not hold up. So, I made up a 1/4" thick plate of aluminum. it looks like crap but it seems to have done the job so far. If anyone has a more elegant solution I would be interested as well.
Stainless Steel Bow Cap
The best fix is to have a 4-5 mm stainless steel cap made. Remove the entire plastic piece. Using new backing plates you can remount your bow cleats and any lines rubbing against the bow will not hurt the new cap. The cap can be cut out to fit around your furler. You would never have to worry about the bow again. Good luck.
The best fix is to have a 4-5 mm stainless steel cap made. Remove the entire plastic piece. Using new backing plates you can remount your bow cleats and any lines rubbing against the bow will not hurt the new cap. The cap can be cut out to fit around your furler. You would never have to worry about the bow again. Good luck.
Rebuild for strength
This is a high stress part of the boat. To rebuild it with fiberglass, you will need to grind a taper back from the hole, and layer in the glass, expanding the size of sheets to fill the taper. Given the damage on the inner layers, I would add a layer or two on the inside. Getting the repair right will require buying a book on working in fiberglass, and carefully following the (mostly easy) directions. The alternative would be to hire an experienced glass guy with a good reputation. While covering the repair with metal may be good prevention, I think that a glass repair is needed to restore the structural strength of the bow. The good part is that you have a great cruising boat, and it is worth the effort to repair this damage. David Lady Lillie
This is a high stress part of the boat. To rebuild it with fiberglass, you will need to grind a taper back from the hole, and layer in the glass, expanding the size of sheets to fill the taper. Given the damage on the inner layers, I would add a layer or two on the inside. Getting the repair right will require buying a book on working in fiberglass, and carefully following the (mostly easy) directions. The alternative would be to hire an experienced glass guy with a good reputation. While covering the repair with metal may be good prevention, I think that a glass repair is needed to restore the structural strength of the bow. The good part is that you have a great cruising boat, and it is worth the effort to repair this damage. David Lady Lillie
I'm with Okiman and Tony Z....
on 2 conditions...1) you got a great deal, 2) you plan on keeping the boat awhile. Personally, if I was going to keep it, I'd look into replacing the "cap" people are talking about with aluminum diamond plate. A local welder could use the old pieces and shape up a "cap" to cover the busted up bow and really dress it up. Mount your cleats there and the roller furling will wrap around the front. I'd still fill in the "gaps" with epoxy, but you will NEVER match to any degree the gelcoat or the faded out/weathered look of the "cap" that is on it. One other minor comment, those bow lights will have to be replaced and relocated higher, preferably to the top of the bow railing as the original location does not meet Coast Guard codes.
on 2 conditions...1) you got a great deal, 2) you plan on keeping the boat awhile. Personally, if I was going to keep it, I'd look into replacing the "cap" people are talking about with aluminum diamond plate. A local welder could use the old pieces and shape up a "cap" to cover the busted up bow and really dress it up. Mount your cleats there and the roller furling will wrap around the front. I'd still fill in the "gaps" with epoxy, but you will NEVER match to any degree the gelcoat or the faded out/weathered look of the "cap" that is on it. One other minor comment, those bow lights will have to be replaced and relocated higher, preferably to the top of the bow railing as the original location does not meet Coast Guard codes.
Yeah, that is anchor line chaff.
Actually yours does not look as bad as some boats I have seen. I would make a mold out of cardboard and tape and fill it up with epoxy. Some black paint and should look like new. The problem is preventing it from happening again. All it takes is to anchor out one night in 20-25 knot winds and the anchor rode will eat another groove. In our 27' I moved the cleats and installed a bow roller to prevent the anchor rode from chaffing the deck.
Actually yours does not look as bad as some boats I have seen. I would make a mold out of cardboard and tape and fill it up with epoxy. Some black paint and should look like new. The problem is preventing it from happening again. All it takes is to anchor out one night in 20-25 knot winds and the anchor rode will eat another groove. In our 27' I moved the cleats and installed a bow roller to prevent the anchor rode from chaffing the deck.
I'm with Honeyman. Replace the cap with
aluminium. I would use smooth rather than diamond plate, for looks, and for less chafe on your gear. Fill the crack with epoxy putty first, but don't worry about it too much. Just get it sealed up. The cleats and tack fitting have enough bolts to hold the new cap to the boat. You may need longer bolts if the aluminium is thicker than the cap. There should be backing plates under the cleats already. If not, add an aluminium backing plate big enough to take all the cleat and tack fitting bolts. You could add a bow roller while you're at it. Just weld a couple of pieces of 3/8 or 1/2" plate to the top of the cap so they stick out over the bow, drill for a bolt, and use whatever roller you like. I have used (the harder type)rubber trailer rollers on several anchor rollers, and they work fine. You can keep the cost down if you get the aluminium and cut the top piece yourself with a sabre saw, then take it to a welding shop to have the lower lip welded on, and sand it smooth yourself with a grinder. If you can afford it the welding shop can do it all quicker then you can.
aluminium. I would use smooth rather than diamond plate, for looks, and for less chafe on your gear. Fill the crack with epoxy putty first, but don't worry about it too much. Just get it sealed up. The cleats and tack fitting have enough bolts to hold the new cap to the boat. You may need longer bolts if the aluminium is thicker than the cap. There should be backing plates under the cleats already. If not, add an aluminium backing plate big enough to take all the cleat and tack fitting bolts. You could add a bow roller while you're at it. Just weld a couple of pieces of 3/8 or 1/2" plate to the top of the cap so they stick out over the bow, drill for a bolt, and use whatever roller you like. I have used (the harder type)rubber trailer rollers on several anchor rollers, and they work fine. You can keep the cost down if you get the aluminium and cut the top piece yourself with a sabre saw, then take it to a welding shop to have the lower lip welded on, and sand it smooth yourself with a grinder. If you can afford it the welding shop can do it all quicker then you can.
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