The bow cleat on my 1995 H26 suddenly has a lot of play in it, coming from the forward phillips screw, and I'm new enough to this business (I've had the boat a year) that I'm not sure how best to deal with it. It won't tighten. Is there a plate under the cleat into which it seats? If so, how does one get at it? Or is this a matter of 5200? For the moment, I'm tying off at the bow D ring which is used when trailering, since I don't want to add more stress to the cleat, but I'd like to figure out how to fix the cleat itself. Your ideas -- and patience with such a simple question -- will be much appreciated. Richard "Lark"
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Don't use 5200!
It may be permanent, but that doesn't mean it can't leak. The cleat should be back-plated...you can't tighten the screw because plate has worked off it...the screw has nothing to bite into. Others can tell you how to find it...I'll only tell you what to do once you have: remove the cleat completely, clean out all the existing bedding compoud, re-set it bedded with proper bedding compound, and thred the screws back into the backing plate. That part is a 2 person job.
It may be permanent, but that doesn't mean it can't leak. The cleat should be back-plated...you can't tighten the screw because plate has worked off it...the screw has nothing to bite into. Others can tell you how to find it...I'll only tell you what to do once you have: remove the cleat completely, clean out all the existing bedding compoud, re-set it bedded with proper bedding compound, and thred the screws back into the backing plate. That part is a 2 person job.
Dock cleats
There's a bigger problem with using 5200 to solve this: it's not strong enough! 5200 will bond the cleat to the surface of your boat but that is NOT going to be strong enough to rely on for anything like a dock cleat. That's why you have bolts there in the first place! I don't know about your boat, but I've found that most of the hardware on my 77 Hunter 27 does NOT have backing plates. This includes things like cleats, lifeline stanchions and winches. (It makes me cringe every time I look at these things.) I'm in the process of reinstalling all that hardware with stainless steel backing plates so I won't have to worry about sudden hardware failure in a squall or somesuch. I don't know about later Hunter models.... did they ever come to there senses and start using backing plates?
There's a bigger problem with using 5200 to solve this: it's not strong enough! 5200 will bond the cleat to the surface of your boat but that is NOT going to be strong enough to rely on for anything like a dock cleat. That's why you have bolts there in the first place! I don't know about your boat, but I've found that most of the hardware on my 77 Hunter 27 does NOT have backing plates. This includes things like cleats, lifeline stanchions and winches. (It makes me cringe every time I look at these things.) I'm in the process of reinstalling all that hardware with stainless steel backing plates so I won't have to worry about sudden hardware failure in a squall or somesuch. I don't know about later Hunter models.... did they ever come to there senses and start using backing plates?
Whaaat?
I do hope they put backing plates on all their deck gear. Wonder if Hunter could respond to this?
I do hope they put backing plates on all their deck gear. Wonder if Hunter could respond to this?
Backing plates
The backing plates in newer models are embedded in the glass. You can't see them, but they're there. I do not know for a fact, but my hunch is that your '77 27 is built the same way. The bolts tap into the backing plate instead of having nuts and washers beneath it.
The backing plates in newer models are embedded in the glass. You can't see them, but they're there. I do not know for a fact, but my hunch is that your '77 27 is built the same way. The bolts tap into the backing plate instead of having nuts and washers beneath it.
Two Simple Options
Two simple options: Drill fully through into the bow cavity and add addtional backing and bolt through with longer bolts. (better) or Retap the OEM embedded backer with one size larger hardware and repeat the OEM installation. (OK)
Two simple options: Drill fully through into the bow cavity and add addtional backing and bolt through with longer bolts. (better) or Retap the OEM embedded backer with one size larger hardware and repeat the OEM installation. (OK)
Thanks -- anyone know how to access the plate?
Helpful suggestions all. I couldn't see how to get to the back of the plate from inside the boat -- ideas or experiences, anybody? Richard "Lark"
Helpful suggestions all. I couldn't see how to get to the back of the plate from inside the boat -- ideas or experiences, anybody? Richard "Lark"
Richard, I have the same boat as yours, but as
always it is there and I am here. If you remove both mounting screws (be sure to keep the screw seperate so you know which came out of which hole) you should be able to look down into the hole and see the threaded devise or plate that the screws mount in. Then; 1. Check each screw to see if the threads are intact, ruined, stripped or rubbed out. If the screw is wrecked then there is a good chance the holding plate is still good. Usually in this type of installation the holding plate is harder than the screw so the screw fails rather than the plate. 2. Using a thin sharp scribe or ice pick, check if the mounting devise or plate moves around. Has it broken free of the fiberglass that locks it in place? If it has then the easiest repair might be to drill thru and mount and seal a new plate inside the boat. 3. Is there a mounting plate or nut there in the first place? 4. If there a plate is it steel (magnetic), stainless steel(very hard) or aluminum(soft metal). If there is a plate or devise and it still is tight then; 1. Steel. Go to the next size screw, drill for this tap size, use bottoming tap to install new threads, blow out carefully and install this size screw with some type of sealent. Remember to drill fitting for new screw size. 2. Aluminum. Same as for steel or heli-coil to use same size screw. My choice would be to heli-coil both. 3. Stainless steel. It is not very forgiving and hard to work for some one not used to this work. Yor might be better off to drill clear thru until a backing plate can be installed from below and sealed. Not much help, just a lot of work. That is why we have winters. Project time. Ray S/V Speedy
always it is there and I am here. If you remove both mounting screws (be sure to keep the screw seperate so you know which came out of which hole) you should be able to look down into the hole and see the threaded devise or plate that the screws mount in. Then; 1. Check each screw to see if the threads are intact, ruined, stripped or rubbed out. If the screw is wrecked then there is a good chance the holding plate is still good. Usually in this type of installation the holding plate is harder than the screw so the screw fails rather than the plate. 2. Using a thin sharp scribe or ice pick, check if the mounting devise or plate moves around. Has it broken free of the fiberglass that locks it in place? If it has then the easiest repair might be to drill thru and mount and seal a new plate inside the boat. 3. Is there a mounting plate or nut there in the first place? 4. If there a plate is it steel (magnetic), stainless steel(very hard) or aluminum(soft metal). If there is a plate or devise and it still is tight then; 1. Steel. Go to the next size screw, drill for this tap size, use bottoming tap to install new threads, blow out carefully and install this size screw with some type of sealent. Remember to drill fitting for new screw size. 2. Aluminum. Same as for steel or heli-coil to use same size screw. My choice would be to heli-coil both. 3. Stainless steel. It is not very forgiving and hard to work for some one not used to this work. Yor might be better off to drill clear thru until a backing plate can be installed from below and sealed. Not much help, just a lot of work. That is why we have winters. Project time. Ray S/V Speedy
What I did
After losing the bow cleat on my 26, I put in two cleats in the fashion of the 260. On the sides of the bow, drilled through to the anchor well with backing etc. There's also an inspection plate on each side of the anchor well to access the nuts. This has held up for two or three years with no problems.
After losing the bow cleat on my 26, I put in two cleats in the fashion of the 260. On the sides of the bow, drilled through to the anchor well with backing etc. There's also an inspection plate on each side of the anchor well to access the nuts. This has held up for two or three years with no problems.
All backing plates aluminum
All the backing plates on the H26 are aluminum embedded in the glass. Easy to tap to a larger size but also, since the screws are SS (much harder) I would guess the backing plate threads would give way first. Good luck, Jim Covey
All the backing plates on the H26 are aluminum embedded in the glass. Easy to tap to a larger size but also, since the screws are SS (much harder) I would guess the backing plate threads would give way first. Good luck, Jim Covey
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