Bottom Stripping

sailingdog · Apr 1, 2009

I would sand the hull lightly in any case... since you'll need to provide some tooth for the bottom paint to grip. As for what paint to use, I'd recommend going with a co-polymer multi-season ablative paint, rather than a hard-epoxy paint, as the paint won't build up on the hull. Interlux Micron CSC comes to mind.

higgs · Apr 1, 2009

I am not sure if you are familiar with Practical Sailor. They are sort of a Consumer Reports of sailing products. They are constantly testing bottom paints and I just got their review issue of last years tests. If you you check the member files and e mail me, I would be happy to clip the article and send it to you pronto.

sailaway78 · Apr 1, 2009

Go with an ablative

While I am a big proponent of Trinidad, for my area, don't think you want to do that in your location. More than likely your boat comes out of the water every winter, and an ablative is the way to go. Others will have to recommend brands as I have virtually no knowledge of the ablative paints. I did look at an ablative product last time I did my bottom, called Super Ship Bottom. Looked pretty good, price was very competitive, and when I called them they told me it would go for three years in this area. Not connected with them in any way, just something else to consider.

sailingdog · Apr 1, 2009

If you haul the boat every winter, you definitely want a MULTI-SEASON ablative paint. Otherwise, you're just wasting your money. Most hard epoxy paints are single season, in that if they dry out for an extended period of time, they become useless.

Prime Time · Apr 1, 2009

I have used Ultima SR, an ablative multiseason paint and was happy. It is abit pricey.
I switched to West Marine's CPP Plus which is cheap, can be bought for less than 100/gallon. Single season ablative.

48dodge · Apr 1, 2009

I used Peel Away with success on my boat as well. I found out that the paper they supply with the tub ran out quickly and didn't quite work as well as I would've liked. Just pick up some sheet plastic and use that instead. It's easier to smooth across the surface and keeps the moisture in much better. I can't believe you found that stuff for so cheap! Hope you picked up more than one. To give you an idea, I needed two buckets for my Oday 222 with about the same situation as to the layers of paint.

CalebD · Apr 1, 2009

I too have been using the WM CPP ablative paint on our hull bottom. I am getting a little tired of re-painting every year but the price (of the paint) is right. This paint was rated as a 'best buy' by Piratical Sailor in one of their bottom paint articles and is supposedly made by Petit.
My routine is to do a minimal sanding job and then get some rags and Interlux 202 or 216 thinner and rub the entire bottom with this before painting. My question is: is the rub down with thinner step really beneficial and necessary or should I skip it?

Guest · Apr 1, 2009

Bottom paint

In 2004 I rolled on three coats of WM ablative to our boat hull, which we keep in the water and sail year around. Each year since we've cruised her all over PNW waters and each late spring I have a diver check the hull and install fresh zincs. Every year the diver tells me other than some fuzz we're good for another year.

Alas, I've decided to do the bottom this year for the first time since 2004 and will, like before, install three coats of WM ablative. I'm very satisfied with their product and I expect to get several seasons of protection as I did before.

Terry Cox

Prime Time · Apr 1, 2009

Light sanding

CalebD said:
I too have been using the WM CPP ablative paint on our hull bottom. I am getting a little tired of re-painting every year but the price (of the paint) is right. This paint was rated as a 'best buy' by Piratical Sailor in one of their bottom paint articles and is supposedly made by Petit.
My routine is to do a minimal sanding job and then get some rags and Interlux 202 or 216 thinner and rub the entire bottom with this before painting. My question is: is the rub down with thinner step really beneficial and necessary or should I skip it?

I just lightly (minimally!!) sand, use a tack cloth with acetone and it works fine.

Ted · Apr 1, 2009

Make sure you are using the correct Peel Away product. They make several strippers and most will do damage to gelcoat. You want to be using Peel Away Marine as it is safe for the gelcoat and will not soften it. I'm not sure if the big box home improvement stores carry the marine stripper. Another stripper option that works even better than Peel Away is Soy Strip. It's environmentally friendly too. I've used both products and prefer the Soy Strip. No affiliation whatsoever. Both products like warmer temperatures however longer dwell times will help soften the paint before removal. Definitely sand before painting. Fun project isn't it?

Dean5735 · Apr 2, 2009

I would be very very surprised if you don't have blisters. You may have already removed more paint since the post, did you find any? Do you know what they would look like? Not hard to see, looks like someone shot the bottom with a bb gun in spots. You will need to address this. If you are taking it down after that long, be sure to do the right thing!! It will be better than it was when new. I did my 85 and am very happy to have a waterproof bottom now.

Maine Sail · Apr 2, 2009

Not all boats blister..

blowinganddrifting said:
I would be very very surprised if you don't have blisters. You may have already removed more paint since the post, did you find any? Do you know what they would look like? Not hard to see, looks like someone shot the bottom with a bb gun in spots. You will need to address this. If you are taking it down after that long, be sure to do the right thing!! It will be better than it was when new. I did my 85 and am very happy to have a waterproof bottom now.

The bottom of our 30 year old boat is currently stripped awaiting a barrier coat and smooth bottom. At 30 years of age she is 99.9% blister free (I say 99.9% because we can't find any but they are still fairing, it's still possible). I was a little surprised to find none but then again not all boats suffered from blisters and the layup also had a role in it.

If you barrier coat the bottom must be dry below the 5% reading on an ElectroPhysics moisture meter. This 5% reading translates to about .25% moisture content in GRP.

This was the moisture reading on our hull..

Ron20324 · Apr 3, 2009

CMM said:
I followed up with Peel Away (again) and asked directly if Peel Away 1 would damage the gel coat. The reply was and I quote "Not at All" . For 26 bucks for 1.25 gals (maybe even cheaper else where), this has to be the easiest way to strip a bottom.

Hell, I might even start a side business .

CMM, Why not start a BOTTOM business???

BobM · Apr 4, 2009

Isn't it amazing. "Marine" must be the most expensive word in the english language to print. Somehow whenever they add it to a label the price automatically doubles ;-)

RichB · May 17, 2009

Reading this thread, I have finally come across the name of the layer that protects the gelcoat. The original "barrier" on my h23 is 80% intact. A previous owner has rough-sanded and painted portions directly on the gelcoat.
Which product is recommended to repair the barrier. The original dark green/grey barrier is very thin and smooth and almost looks like a plastic film. This information will help me assess the option of repainting or (since the h23 is trailered) going buff. I have visions of becomming the fastest 23 without bottom paint to create drag. What do ya think??

Maine Sail · May 17, 2009

CMM said:
When it is time, I hope I can convince Maine Sail to come over and give me some advice with the process I should follow for repair (if needed) and painting.

What yard is your C-30 in?? Are you at Handy's?

CMM said:
For 26 bucks for 1.25 gals (maybe even cheaper else where), this has to be the easiest way to strip a bottom.

Hell, I might even start a side business .

Talk to us when you're done..

They make it sound a LOT easier than it really is. After you have stripped the paint there will still be LOTS of sanding, fairing, filling etc. etc. before you can even begin to barrier coat. When you get her down to bare white gel coat I will be glad to stop buy with my meter and let you know how wet or dry she is and if she can be barrier coated or is too wet.. My guess is she will be fine but occasionally you get a bad layup that absorbs some moisture..

Invest in a good sander WITH VACUUM ATTACHMENT it will be the best money you spend. The Fein is the bomb, and honestly out performs anything I have ever used, but they are very pricey. After that I would recommend a Porter cable 97366.

If you don't use a vacuum attachment you will have many IRATE boat neighbors with bottom paint all over their boats and a very unhappy boat yard who has to deal with the EPA...

The Porter Cable CPO (Certified Pre-Owned) site has them for $149.00 which is a killer deal. This is usually a $300.00+ tool.

Porter Cable CPO Sander (LINK)

Bottom Stripping

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