Hello everyone. Makin' Luff was recently pulled, pressure washed, and blocked. In examining the bottom and keel, I found several areas where the previous layers of paint had been removed down to the original gelcoat. According to the previous owner, the bottom has never been completely stripped. I hope to do this fun job using a product called Peel Away, available at BoatUS and West Marine. I've used it before on J22's and Implulses with limited success (mainly due to too low temps and removing it earlier than recommended). Once all the paint is removed, I plan to fill in and fair the repairs, then barrier coat and bottom paint. The referenced photo was taken spring of '05 prior to sanding and repainting. I'm asking for advice, product reviews and / or recommendations, and general information from anyone who's done this project and has useful information to pass along. Any assistance would be appreciated. Photos even more so. Paul, if you're reading this, I still have the information you gave me awhile back regarding specific fairing of the trailing edge of the keel and rudder. I hope to incorporate that advice into the project. Thanks in advance. I want to wish everyone a wonderful and peaceful holiday. Curtis
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I did this
On Bietzpadlin. Peelaway a lot of patience, gloves, boots, bunny suits, gogles, apply it with a trowel. I used a four inch wall paper scraper, a 3M grill scrubbing pad and a garden hose. When applying the barrier coat you will need three coats. Adding color to each coat lets you see where you have been. No color for the first coat, red for the second coat, blue for the third coat, no color for the final coat. Butcher paper is coated and will substitute for Peelaway paper .
On Bietzpadlin. Peelaway a lot of patience, gloves, boots, bunny suits, gogles, apply it with a trowel. I used a four inch wall paper scraper, a 3M grill scrubbing pad and a garden hose. When applying the barrier coat you will need three coats. Adding color to each coat lets you see where you have been. No color for the first coat, red for the second coat, blue for the third coat, no color for the final coat. Butcher paper is coated and will substitute for Peelaway paper .
80 Grit And
a big grinder is faster. I tried the peel away stuff and ended up sanding and grinding the few blisters away. I got a cheap grinder at Harbor Freight. I figured id it made it through a 40 foot boat one time is was worth the 40 bucks. That was 7 years ago and the grinder still works. Fair winds Cap'n Dave I sail therefore I ARRRRRRRRRRR
a big grinder is faster. I tried the peel away stuff and ended up sanding and grinding the few blisters away. I got a cheap grinder at Harbor Freight. I figured id it made it through a 40 foot boat one time is was worth the 40 bucks. That was 7 years ago and the grinder still works. Fair winds Cap'n Dave I sail therefore I ARRRRRRRRRRR
barrier coats
This is going to sound idiotic,... but I will say it anyway. When you do a barrier coat, do it with complete preparation, perfect execution and under ideal conditions. You want to get a permanent or at least 'twelve year plus' bond that survives impact, flexing, temperature changes, dry storage, etc. Dry the hull out in hot months and resolve blisters. Its an easy process (best done yourself, don't trust paid yards on a schedule) but success is only measured over several decades.
This is going to sound idiotic,... but I will say it anyway. When you do a barrier coat, do it with complete preparation, perfect execution and under ideal conditions. You want to get a permanent or at least 'twelve year plus' bond that survives impact, flexing, temperature changes, dry storage, etc. Dry the hull out in hot months and resolve blisters. Its an easy process (best done yourself, don't trust paid yards on a schedule) but success is only measured over several decades.
Thick Paint- Use a Grinder
I tried the peel-away products but if the paint is thick, it will require multiple applications and create a gooy mess. I had to go to a grinder which was fast and effective. It is a lot of work so you better be in shape. The grinder helped expose blister problems and paint chips and dust were easily swept up. Any grinder marks are easy to patch and smooth. I would then acetone the bottom before the barrier coat goes on. Use at least four coats. Good luck.
I tried the peel-away products but if the paint is thick, it will require multiple applications and create a gooy mess. I had to go to a grinder which was fast and effective. It is a lot of work so you better be in shape. The grinder helped expose blister problems and paint chips and dust were easily swept up. Any grinder marks are easy to patch and smooth. I would then acetone the bottom before the barrier coat goes on. Use at least four coats. Good luck.
Repair and fairing material?
Thanks guys for the advice so far re: PeelAway vs. sanding or grinding. Any recommendations on what's your preferred material for patching / bonding / fairing? Interlux? West Systems? Bondo?? How about the barrier coat? What have you used in the past and why would you, or not, recommend it?
Thanks guys for the advice so far re: PeelAway vs. sanding or grinding. Any recommendations on what's your preferred material for patching / bonding / fairing? Interlux? West Systems? Bondo?? How about the barrier coat? What have you used in the past and why would you, or not, recommend it?
Bottom work
Haven't used PeelAway myself; there are certainly glowing recommendations and horror stories aplenty, so it must be done right, apparently. My understanding is that you will need a sander anyway, either to clean things up after the stripper or at least to rough up the hull for a good barrier bond. This is different from a grinder, which is useful for digging into blisters and removing fglass in repair jobs. So get a DECENT SANDER. Not some 1/4" circular drill or big box amateur thing, but a serious orbital (pref 6") variable speed machine with a vacuum attachment. Check out PorterCable, Fein, Bosch, or other industrial brands. The easiest stuff I have worked with is Interlux Watertite. Its a two-part putty that is already a perfect consistency and fairs great. For larger voids, West System epoxy with the correct filler or chopped strands or even cloth will be needed. I think also 3M makes a vinylester repair filler with strands for added strength. I'm going to pretend you didn't mention the B word. The barrier I used was Interprotect 2000E. Since then it has been made easier to apply, in that the time windows between coats are longer. I liked using it and see it frequently on other boats. The epoxy barrier coats (honey colored) I have seen often have a wavy surface, as if the layers sagged when going on. Other than that, they look pretty good too.
Haven't used PeelAway myself; there are certainly glowing recommendations and horror stories aplenty, so it must be done right, apparently. My understanding is that you will need a sander anyway, either to clean things up after the stripper or at least to rough up the hull for a good barrier bond. This is different from a grinder, which is useful for digging into blisters and removing fglass in repair jobs. So get a DECENT SANDER. Not some 1/4" circular drill or big box amateur thing, but a serious orbital (pref 6") variable speed machine with a vacuum attachment. Check out PorterCable, Fein, Bosch, or other industrial brands. The easiest stuff I have worked with is Interlux Watertite. Its a two-part putty that is already a perfect consistency and fairs great. For larger voids, West System epoxy with the correct filler or chopped strands or even cloth will be needed. I think also 3M makes a vinylester repair filler with strands for added strength. I'm going to pretend you didn't mention the B word. The barrier I used was Interprotect 2000E. Since then it has been made easier to apply, in that the time windows between coats are longer. I liked using it and see it frequently on other boats. The epoxy barrier coats (honey colored) I have seen often have a wavy surface, as if the layers sagged when going on. Other than that, they look pretty good too.
Anyone tried Pettit Bio-Blast?
This new kid on the block for stripping bare your hull is said to be biodegradable. They are making great claims about it, and I was wondering if anyone out there has tried it yet.
This new kid on the block for stripping bare your hull is said to be biodegradable. They are making great claims about it, and I was wondering if anyone out there has tried it yet.
Good feedback!
This is the information I'm seeking. I appreciate the input. Doing a Google Groups search for this topic has unveiled a ton of previous discussions. Most are in agreement over the quality and ease of use of Interlux and / or West Systems products. I haven't heard anyone mention alternative methods of paint removal; sand, walnut shell, or baking soda blasting. Any thoughts good or bad?
This is the information I'm seeking. I appreciate the input. Doing a Google Groups search for this topic has unveiled a ton of previous discussions. Most are in agreement over the quality and ease of use of Interlux and / or West Systems products. I haven't heard anyone mention alternative methods of paint removal; sand, walnut shell, or baking soda blasting. Any thoughts good or bad?
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