We resently purchased a used 22 that had only been used in fresh water. There is a bottom paint on the boat but the type is unknown. It is very soft and will dissolve easily if rubbed with a wet sponge or scotch brite. I'd like to redo the bottom but not sure whether to completely remove the old coating or not. Any ideas on determining whether the existing bottom paint is an ablative or sloughing ?? Thanks for any input.
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bottom job
When I had my 36 Catalina hauled, we had no idea of what type paint was previously used. The yard wet sanded off the existing bottom paint and put a new different coat on. I sold the boat in Feb 2000 and it had been 29 months since that bottom job. To my suprise, the paint was still in good shape.It did not seem to matter what type of paint was on the boat.They just wet sanded it off.........
When I had my 36 Catalina hauled, we had no idea of what type paint was previously used. The yard wet sanded off the existing bottom paint and put a new different coat on. I sold the boat in Feb 2000 and it had been 29 months since that bottom job. To my suprise, the paint was still in good shape.It did not seem to matter what type of paint was on the boat.They just wet sanded it off.........
Bottom Paint
Well we are in the same boat lol
The guys at the local boat store suggest a premium bottem paint that is made to go over ANY bottom paint Ive orderd some so ill post the brand when it comes in! WE have just had to accept the reality that our fresh water 76'C22 has been painted!(they did a good job but it is NOT the orriginal jellcoat as advertised DEVASTATED
Well we are in the same boat lol
The guys at the local boat store suggest a premium bottem paint that is made to go over ANY bottom paint Ive orderd some so ill post the brand when it comes in! WE have just had to accept the reality that our fresh water 76'C22 has been painted!(they did a good job but it is NOT the orriginal jellcoat as advertised DEVASTATEDGood looking bottom
I just completed a bottom job on my Catalina 22. I had the same type of paint characteristics that you described. I pulled the boat and power washed the hull. I marked all the blisters and opened them up with a Dremel Moto tool and a number 121 bit. This works like a dentists drill.( WEST epoxy systems has a good handbook on how to repair blisters for $3.00) I let the boat dry out for a few weeks then sanded the bottom before filling in the blisters with West Epoxy and 701 filler. I sanded down the filler and covered the epoxy with 3M barrier coat before painting with 2 coats of Interlux Micron CSC. It is made to go on over just about anything. (They have an excellent web page at Yachtpaint.com) The Paint cost $120 per gallon at Boater's World and was applied with a roller and followed with a brush as recommended by Interlux. This paint has the advantage of being able to be out of the water for extended periods of time without ruining its antifouling characteristics and is a little harder than most ablative copolymer paints. It is supposed to be good for several seasons before a repaint is needed. The disadvantage is that it takes 16 hours to dry. This total job took me about 20 hours of work over 4 weekends and the results were very good (everyone says I have a good looking bottom!) at 1/4 the cost the boatyard quoted.
I just completed a bottom job on my Catalina 22. I had the same type of paint characteristics that you described. I pulled the boat and power washed the hull. I marked all the blisters and opened them up with a Dremel Moto tool and a number 121 bit. This works like a dentists drill.( WEST epoxy systems has a good handbook on how to repair blisters for $3.00) I let the boat dry out for a few weeks then sanded the bottom before filling in the blisters with West Epoxy and 701 filler. I sanded down the filler and covered the epoxy with 3M barrier coat before painting with 2 coats of Interlux Micron CSC. It is made to go on over just about anything. (They have an excellent web page at Yachtpaint.com) The Paint cost $120 per gallon at Boater's World and was applied with a roller and followed with a brush as recommended by Interlux. This paint has the advantage of being able to be out of the water for extended periods of time without ruining its antifouling characteristics and is a little harder than most ablative copolymer paints. It is supposed to be good for several seasons before a repaint is needed. The disadvantage is that it takes 16 hours to dry. This total job took me about 20 hours of work over 4 weekends and the results were very good (everyone says I have a good looking bottom!) at 1/4 the cost the boatyard quoted.
Sanding=HELL
Hi in Massachusets' I have a 1974 C-22 that had accumulated quite an impressive bottom paint build up. In fact I could swear it was a quarter inch thick!.. I decided to take it off by using a paint scraper to remove the majority of "big chips" and then an orbital sander to remove the rest- down to the original gelcoat. Yuck!! THAT was an awful way to spend last spring! The gelcoat had no blisters and looked basically sound, but had quite a few "spider cracks" over its surface. Most people at marine stores and also at the Catalina 22 Foredeck said "don't worry". Okay, call me compulsive! I carefully cleaned the bare gelcoat with lots of acetone and applied clear epoxy to the entire hull (below the waterline) with a West Marine "No Nap" foam roller. It took exactly one quart of resin. Then I sanding this and applied three coats of Interlux "Aquarious" Waterbase bottom paint. It is a fairly hard paint to the touch until the boat is in the water. It has no toxins and works by "sliding off" and not allowing grunge to adhere to the bottom, especially while you are sailing. I still found that it helped to snorkle dive and brush the waterlilne every six weeks or so. After going to the Strictly Sail Show here in Chicago last February though, I found a Soy bean-based paint remover that does an incredible job- with NO SANDING! But it's not cheap. It would have had to be done in two stages since the paint was so thick and I think the cost of the chemical alone would be nearly $200. But sanding over one's head and breathing all that (toxic) dust is something I would gladly have missed. Good luck with your C-22! If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me at boatyodoe@21stcentury.net Steve Cook
Hi in Massachusets' I have a 1974 C-22 that had accumulated quite an impressive bottom paint build up. In fact I could swear it was a quarter inch thick!.. I decided to take it off by using a paint scraper to remove the majority of "big chips" and then an orbital sander to remove the rest- down to the original gelcoat. Yuck!! THAT was an awful way to spend last spring! The gelcoat had no blisters and looked basically sound, but had quite a few "spider cracks" over its surface. Most people at marine stores and also at the Catalina 22 Foredeck said "don't worry". Okay, call me compulsive! I carefully cleaned the bare gelcoat with lots of acetone and applied clear epoxy to the entire hull (below the waterline) with a West Marine "No Nap" foam roller. It took exactly one quart of resin. Then I sanding this and applied three coats of Interlux "Aquarious" Waterbase bottom paint. It is a fairly hard paint to the touch until the boat is in the water. It has no toxins and works by "sliding off" and not allowing grunge to adhere to the bottom, especially while you are sailing. I still found that it helped to snorkle dive and brush the waterlilne every six weeks or so. After going to the Strictly Sail Show here in Chicago last February though, I found a Soy bean-based paint remover that does an incredible job- with NO SANDING! But it's not cheap. It would have had to be done in two stages since the paint was so thick and I think the cost of the chemical alone would be nearly $200. But sanding over one's head and breathing all that (toxic) dust is something I would gladly have missed. Good luck with your C-22! If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me at boatyodoe@21stcentury.net Steve Cook
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