I am preparing to paint the bottom of my '85 Hunter 34 for my first time. The previous owner kept it in the water in Annapolis, MD last winter. We hauled it out and power washed it for survey in May and the bottom looked OK. It's been in the upper Chesapeake ever since. A complete bottom job was supposedly done on it in the mid '90's. I appreciate any advice I can get from prep to products.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
T
Tim Leighton
MY EXPERIENCE
Mike: Been doing the bottom of my H-31 for 16 years. No expert, but done it enough and have the sore back to prove it! In fact, finished my last bottom job on TIDE today (just sold her). I've used "ablative" paint for a number of years now and highly recommend them. As you may know, that type of paint wears off as you use the boat and reveals new antifouling paint all season. You put 2 contrasting color coats on and when you see lots of the first color paint, it's time to paint! You can go 18-24 months between haulings if you do a good job on both coats of paint. Good deal is that the paint doesn't build up over the years and the stuff works as well or better than any other type I've used. Understand that I'm a cruiser. If you are racing your 34, you will probably want to use a hard paint that gives a "slicker" finish. The type paint I used this year was the MICRON EXTRA w/ "slime blocker". Went on very well. You will use a good 2 gallons for the two coats. Wear surgical gloves, use the right type of paint roller, invest in a good roller handle (trust me on this one) and wear a painters hat (again, trust me on this one - I looked like a Smurf the last time!). Start at the keel and work your way up. Make sure you tape the waterline/bootstripe - easy to do, get the yard to show you how and then have at it. Good luck on your project. It will feel GREAT when you are done! Smooth Sailing, Tim L.
Mike: Been doing the bottom of my H-31 for 16 years. No expert, but done it enough and have the sore back to prove it! In fact, finished my last bottom job on TIDE today (just sold her). I've used "ablative" paint for a number of years now and highly recommend them. As you may know, that type of paint wears off as you use the boat and reveals new antifouling paint all season. You put 2 contrasting color coats on and when you see lots of the first color paint, it's time to paint! You can go 18-24 months between haulings if you do a good job on both coats of paint. Good deal is that the paint doesn't build up over the years and the stuff works as well or better than any other type I've used. Understand that I'm a cruiser. If you are racing your 34, you will probably want to use a hard paint that gives a "slicker" finish. The type paint I used this year was the MICRON EXTRA w/ "slime blocker". Went on very well. You will use a good 2 gallons for the two coats. Wear surgical gloves, use the right type of paint roller, invest in a good roller handle (trust me on this one) and wear a painters hat (again, trust me on this one - I looked like a Smurf the last time!). Start at the keel and work your way up. Make sure you tape the waterline/bootstripe - easy to do, get the yard to show you how and then have at it. Good luck on your project. It will feel GREAT when you are done! Smooth Sailing, Tim L.
Tim, what does it cost.
Tim: What does it cost you to do the bottom yourself? More curious than anything. We have PAID $500 for the Pull, pressure wash, prep, paint, labor, zincs, enviromental fees and the splash. I understand that it is has gone up to about $600.
Tim: What does it cost you to do the bottom yourself? More curious than anything. We have PAID $500 for the Pull, pressure wash, prep, paint, labor, zincs, enviromental fees and the splash. I understand that it is has gone up to about $600.
T
Tim Leighton
HUH??1@#$# YOU'VE GOT TO BE KIDDING!!
I'm moving to CA today!!! I thought most boating related prices were almost reasonable here on the S. Chesapeake Bay! Although I've only had the yard do all the work a couple times, I know I paid a LOT more than $600 for a full haul and paint job. Here is an approximate breakdown on my costs this trip just relating to the haul/painting (boat is going back in the water this morning): Haul/launch @ $6.00/ft $186 Pressure Wash @ $ 2/ft 62 Block/storage @ .40/day x 7 87 Paint (Micron Extra ablative) 1 gal 120 Assorted supplies 40 Sore back Priceless TOTAL $465 I kept the boat out of the water a few extra days because of my job schedcule and to have a survey done for the buyers of TIDE (by the way, the survey went VERY well w/ absolutely no major problems and only a few small minor ones - more in another posting to you). In any case, the costs were just a bit higher because of that, but still, if I could have the whole thing for the $600-800 range I'd jump right on! Lets think here....central CA.... good baseball (?)... Chinatown ... Napa Valley ...close skiing ... good sailing ... cheap haulouts! Yup, we'll be there next week! Smooth Sailing! Tim Leighton (ex-owner of TIDE now CHA CHA)
I'm moving to CA today!!! I thought most boating related prices were almost reasonable here on the S. Chesapeake Bay! Although I've only had the yard do all the work a couple times, I know I paid a LOT more than $600 for a full haul and paint job. Here is an approximate breakdown on my costs this trip just relating to the haul/painting (boat is going back in the water this morning): Haul/launch @ $6.00/ft $186 Pressure Wash @ $ 2/ft 62 Block/storage @ .40/day x 7 87 Paint (Micron Extra ablative) 1 gal 120 Assorted supplies 40 Sore back Priceless TOTAL $465 I kept the boat out of the water a few extra days because of my job schedcule and to have a survey done for the buyers of TIDE (by the way, the survey went VERY well w/ absolutely no major problems and only a few small minor ones - more in another posting to you). In any case, the costs were just a bit higher because of that, but still, if I could have the whole thing for the $600-800 range I'd jump right on! Lets think here....central CA.... good baseball (?)... Chinatown ... Napa Valley ...close skiing ... good sailing ... cheap haulouts! Yup, we'll be there next week! Smooth Sailing! Tim Leighton (ex-owner of TIDE now CHA CHA)
E
Ed Schenck
Cost in Ohio.
Just the cost of the paint! Last Spring I did not paint, cost = $0.00. Since we pay a flat rate for the season that includes haulout/powerwash/splash a paint job is very cheap. IF you do it yourself. One gallon of Trinidad SR is about $120. on sale. Value of my many hours of labor? Zero. Would I pay $600. a year if I could sail year 'round? You kidding?
Just the cost of the paint! Last Spring I did not paint, cost = $0.00. Since we pay a flat rate for the season that includes haulout/powerwash/splash a paint job is very cheap. IF you do it yourself. One gallon of Trinidad SR is about $120. on sale. Value of my many hours of labor? Zero. Would I pay $600. a year if I could sail year 'round? You kidding?
D
Dean Strong
For Tim
I like your idea of using two colors of bottom paint...I'm getting ready to do my first job too. Another question: What do you do for prepping the hull before painting in the way of scraping and sanding? Do you use power tools, etc? Thanks.
I like your idea of using two colors of bottom paint...I'm getting ready to do my first job too. Another question: What do you do for prepping the hull before painting in the way of scraping and sanding? Do you use power tools, etc? Thanks.
T
Tim Leighton
BOTTOM PREP
Dean: As I said before, I'm no expert but since I routinely stay at Holiday Inn Express's, I'll wade in here. IF you've used ablative paint before, surface prep should consist of a good pressure wash and the mechanical removal of any loose or chipping paint on the hull. You'll know if the paint is loose by simply looking at it from several angles (for the sun). Not sure? Then take a putty knife/spatula and run it along the area you are questioning. If it takes up paint, keep working the area until you can't get any more to chip off. Once done with that, use a random orbital/palm sander w/ 80-100 grit paper and smooth out the edges. Wipe clean with some solvent and you are done and ready to paint! If your original paint is of the hard variety, you can remove all the old paint (good idea if there are multiple layers) or do the above and then use a sander to rough up the entire surface of the hull. This will help the new paint to "stick" to the old. As for the contrasting colors, I put a relatively thin coat on first (don't want to waste expensive paint!) and put the second on a bit thicker since that is the layer which will be "ablated" the most. Really not a tough job if you are methodic and careful. I like doing my own bottom because then I know what is on there and don't have to worry how well some H.S. kid @ minimum wage did with a roller. Good luck!! Tim Leighton
Dean: As I said before, I'm no expert but since I routinely stay at Holiday Inn Express's, I'll wade in here. IF you've used ablative paint before, surface prep should consist of a good pressure wash and the mechanical removal of any loose or chipping paint on the hull. You'll know if the paint is loose by simply looking at it from several angles (for the sun). Not sure? Then take a putty knife/spatula and run it along the area you are questioning. If it takes up paint, keep working the area until you can't get any more to chip off. Once done with that, use a random orbital/palm sander w/ 80-100 grit paper and smooth out the edges. Wipe clean with some solvent and you are done and ready to paint! If your original paint is of the hard variety, you can remove all the old paint (good idea if there are multiple layers) or do the above and then use a sander to rough up the entire surface of the hull. This will help the new paint to "stick" to the old. As for the contrasting colors, I put a relatively thin coat on first (don't want to waste expensive paint!) and put the second on a bit thicker since that is the layer which will be "ablated" the most. Really not a tough job if you are methodic and careful. I like doing my own bottom because then I know what is on there and don't have to worry how well some H.S. kid @ minimum wage did with a roller. Good luck!! Tim Leighton
- Status
- Not open for further replies.