So today I am doing my engine prep work; you know the usual... filters, fuel pump clean out, anodes etc. and one of the guys from the yard who launches my boat every year comes by and asks me if I am going to paint the bottom of my boat this year. Of course I said "yes" as I do this like a robot every year but on my way home I got to wondering why he asked me that and now I am wondering if one could skip a season, has anyone tried that in New England waters, etc. So probably a stupid question but maybe not? Thoughts?
Bottom painting - Stupid question.....or not?
- Thread starter odaydokay
- Start date
I'm in Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn. My Club allows members to do whatever work we want. I haul out every OTHER year. We power wash our own boats and I re-paint with MICRON CSC. I apply 2 coats on the bottom and 3-4 coats along the waterline. I get, maybe, two barnacles on the entire bottom and rudder. The only problem I have is with the prop and shaft. No matter what I use, (and I've used about everything except propspeed), I start growing stuff after the first season. Use common sense and you should not have any problems.
Hi,
I have been getting 2 years from my bottom paint for many years now. I use Pettit paint, SR40 or SR60. I paint the boat and then it spends 2 years in the water. Then i haul the boat, power wash it, and a light sanding before another paint job.
barry
I have been getting 2 years from my bottom paint for many years now. I use Pettit paint, SR40 or SR60. I paint the boat and then it spends 2 years in the water. Then i haul the boat, power wash it, and a light sanding before another paint job.
barry
When I used VC (Whatever version) I would go 2 years before re-coating. I would regularly scrub the bottom. When I used Bottom Coat (Ablative)I would just touch up areas that needed it. Layers and layers of paint leads to the need for a bottom re-do in my opinion.
The first question you should asking yourself is, "What kind of paint am I currently using?" For instance, hard paints cannot withstand prolonged exposure to air, so if you are using a hard paint you will need to throw another coat on before splashing.
Edit: I see that you currently use West Marine CPP, which is a single season ablative paint. I have no experience with single season paints, since boats in California typically stay in the water year 'round for 3+ years. But I suppose you could try stretching your paint for an extra season. Be interesting to see how that goes.
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I am going to talk to the yard to see how the hull looked when they hauled last Fall, but I am going to try the touch up route and see how it goes. Will try to remember to report back in the Fall.
I've written about this many a time and I am sure you can find posts if you search. But, there are two basic types of paints. Paints that are copper based, usually a hard finish (hence some build up through the years with most). They are single season paints if you pull the boat for winter each year because cuprous oxide paints have a chemical change that renders them ineffective when the hull dries. Hence, not good for those who trailer their boats a lot and let the hull dry. But, if you leave the boat in the water for more than one year, without pulling them, they can be effective for longer periods of time. The type of paint depends on how much fouling you have in your area. Those with the worst fouling conditions, usually go with Trinidad by Pettit or Ultra by Interlux because they have the highest percentage of toxicants in them. It should be noted that in these types of paints, the toxicants leach away from the paint over the course of time. So, if you see lots of paint on your hull, but it is an old application, you cannot assume it will be working for you effectively. One way to find that out is if a lot of stuff starts growing on your hull.
With multi-season paints (and there are a bunch out there from which to choose), you don't have to worry about the hull getting dry at haul out or winter storage. That's because there is no adverse reaction taking place. The other thing about multi-season paints is that the toxicant and the paint leach away at the same time, eventually leaving you with a bare hull. Hence, no build up like the other type. The formula works like a bar of soap. As you wash your hands, the bar gets smaller, but continues to do its job of cleaning your hands. Multi-season paints are the same way. As you use your boat, the paint, with the toxicants, leech away continually keeping the hull clean until the paint is gone. Then it is time to recoat. Usually one recoats when some of the bare hull starts showing through. The concept also suggests that you don't need high percentages of toxicant because of this continual leaching effect. So, while most manufacturers recommend two coats of single season paints, they recommend two coats of multi-season paints simply because it will last longer.
But, multi-season paints tend to be softer than the the others so you don't want to wash your money down the drain with a high pressure power wash at the end of the season.
VC17m was mentioned. It is a paint that has less effectiveness when the hull dries, so when those who pull their boats for the winter, to get good performance the next season, it is imperative to give it another two coats (manufacture's recommendations). If you leave the boat in the water for longer periods, you can expect the paint to be effective for that longer period. But, again, checking your hull and looking for growth pretty much tells you need more paint.
With VC17m, there is little or no build up, which is huge. And, little preparation to apply. And it dries very fast so you can paint it minutes before launch and get good results. But, VCm is basically a fresh water paint and if used in mild salt water environments, it may do the job, but for heavier fouling conditions in salt water, the company makes VC Offshore.
Racers love VC17m because of the slippery smooth hull which enhances performance even in very light air. It has been found extremely effective with zebra mussels.
VC17m has gone through a formula change and the new formula is due out this month, but most stores, even big box stores, don't have it in stock yet. They have added black to their usual original, blue and red formulas. A black cap will let you know you are buying the latest formula. Or, until they have the black caps available, a sticker will be on the usual red cap to distinguish between old and new.
Regarding the other paints, depending on the brand and type, color choices vary. And some are water based for easy clean up as well as being more EPA environmentally safe.
That's my 2 cents.
With multi-season paints (and there are a bunch out there from which to choose), you don't have to worry about the hull getting dry at haul out or winter storage. That's because there is no adverse reaction taking place. The other thing about multi-season paints is that the toxicant and the paint leach away at the same time, eventually leaving you with a bare hull. Hence, no build up like the other type. The formula works like a bar of soap. As you wash your hands, the bar gets smaller, but continues to do its job of cleaning your hands. Multi-season paints are the same way. As you use your boat, the paint, with the toxicants, leech away continually keeping the hull clean until the paint is gone. Then it is time to recoat. Usually one recoats when some of the bare hull starts showing through. The concept also suggests that you don't need high percentages of toxicant because of this continual leaching effect. So, while most manufacturers recommend two coats of single season paints, they recommend two coats of multi-season paints simply because it will last longer.
But, multi-season paints tend to be softer than the the others so you don't want to wash your money down the drain with a high pressure power wash at the end of the season.
VC17m was mentioned. It is a paint that has less effectiveness when the hull dries, so when those who pull their boats for the winter, to get good performance the next season, it is imperative to give it another two coats (manufacture's recommendations). If you leave the boat in the water for longer periods, you can expect the paint to be effective for that longer period. But, again, checking your hull and looking for growth pretty much tells you need more paint.
With VC17m, there is little or no build up, which is huge. And, little preparation to apply. And it dries very fast so you can paint it minutes before launch and get good results. But, VCm is basically a fresh water paint and if used in mild salt water environments, it may do the job, but for heavier fouling conditions in salt water, the company makes VC Offshore.
Racers love VC17m because of the slippery smooth hull which enhances performance even in very light air. It has been found extremely effective with zebra mussels.
VC17m has gone through a formula change and the new formula is due out this month, but most stores, even big box stores, don't have it in stock yet. They have added black to their usual original, blue and red formulas. A black cap will let you know you are buying the latest formula. Or, until they have the black caps available, a sticker will be on the usual red cap to distinguish between old and new.
Regarding the other paints, depending on the brand and type, color choices vary. And some are water based for easy clean up as well as being more EPA environmentally safe.
That's my 2 cents.
This statement is very misleading. Almost all anti fouling paints (be they hard, ablative or thin film etc.) use cuprous oxide (or some other form of copper) as their primary biocide. The fact that a paint uses cuprous oxide has no bearing on whether or not it can withstand prolonged exposure to air. That is a function of the paint's matrix, not its biocide.
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Multiseason ablative here South of Boston. I use Petit Hydrocoat SR, power wash when hauled, never sand, touch ups as required in Spring with a disposable brush (five minute job), total recoat (single layer) every four years using foam roller and one gallon of Hydrocoat SR for a thin coating. I use several coats of paste auto wax on my prop applied every Spring and it seems to work, but not perfect. My neighbor uses nothing on his prop and his prop has barnacles all over it upon haul out. The bottom paint keeps barnacles at bay but the slime and grass appear eventually during the season. I use a Dry Diver Brush (Hamilton Marine) about mid - season and that removes a lot of the slime. My marina will not allow divers which would be better.
Most likely reasoning is that stray electrical current in marinas or around docks has been known to be fatal to people in the water. Its a liability issue like it or not.
Not likely. I presume he is in a saltwater marina and electric shock drowning is essentially unheard of in saltwater. Freshwater (like you), yes. Saltwater? No.
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I use the same paint and procedure on the Town River. For the prop, I use the silver spray paint for props from Monihan's that works very well.
The marina I worked at in Plymouth had the same policy, for the same reason. As the dockmaster, i would sometimes find boatowners letting their kids swim around the boat when they thought I had left for the day.
Again, ESD is a non-issue in saltwater marinas and I have the numbers to prove it. You are in greater danger driving to the marina than diving in it. I have spent 27+ years working in the water in saltwater marinas and have never come across one that didn't allow hull cleaners to do their job. Nor have I ever come across a hull cleaner that was killed or injured by stray current. It simply isn't an issue. But I understand that not everybody has done the math on this, including insurance companies.