Bottom Paint

[Bad Obsession]

I am thinking about keeping my H22 in a slip this year, at least part-time. I have been trailer sailing it and it currently has old bottom paint on it (I believe that it is an ablative paint). I am wondering on what I have to do to prep. my boat and what is the most economical bottom paint that will work okay (I did see a bottom paint in West Marine, made by West Marine, that was $75 a gallon).I have been keeping my boat on a trailer most of the time. The place I am thinking about keeping the boat is brackish water. Barnicles are found in that area. The area is on the Potomac River before the Rt. 301 bridge. I can't tell you who made the current paint that is on my boat because the previous owner put it on the boat.

 

[Bill18593]

Some points for consideration

It would probably be necessary to consider what type of bottom paint you currently have before just slapping on a new coat. Some allow overcoating with ablative with minimum surface prep. Others require removal or heavy surface prep prior to putting on a new coat.Many bottom paints can't be hauled. They lose their potency once brought out of the water and dried. We used Micron CSC a year ago which allows hauling. It worked OK for us but still needs some midseason attention. But the right paint for you will be the one that you can apply and that workes in the area you sail. Pratical Sailor has an ongoing bottom paint test. That might be a starting place to help your decision. It will tell you what is most effective and what doesn't work well. You'll need to consider your conditions as you read the article(s). There are significant differences in organisms in warmer water than in cooler water.

 

[Joe]

Bottom Paint advisor....

A lot of your questions can be answered by referring to the bottom paint advisory in the West Marine and/or Boat U.S. catalogues. You may find these same advisories online at their respective websites. Once you familiarize yourself with the different paint types and their applications, you'll know that an ablative paint will not lose its effectiveness when exposed to air and sun. That is why trailored or dry stored boats choose those types. Modified epoxies and other hard shell paints, however, lose their effectiveness when out of the water because the air and sun leech out the biocides and anti-fouling chemicals. You'll also understand why you should not paint a hardshell type paint over an abative paint, but you can apply an ablative over hardshell. My choice for your boat would be an inexpensive ablative from West or BoatUS applied directly over the existing paint per the instructions on the can. That will give you very adequate protection for at least a year in the water. My second suggestion is to visit your local chandlery and ask for their recommendation specific to your area as it applies to your boat.

 

[John Dawson]

Dear Bad

I would scrub as much of the old paint off as possible to prevent it from causing adhesion problems, and then go with either Micron Extra or West Marine PCA, which is basically the same stuff only cheaper (you didn't really think WM manufactured paint, did you?).You need a multi-season ablative because you have a trailer and will use it, in the winter if not at other times. Only a multi-launch paint will stay effective under that usage.You need the slime formula because your area is shallow, brackish and prone to growth from excess nutrients (i.e. pollution).

 

[Bad Obsession]

What is the best way to get the old paint

What is the best method of scrubbing off the old paint. I was thinking about powerwashing the hull with a powerful powerwasher. One other question....what is the best way to paint the areas of the boat that rest on the bunks?Thanks!

 

[Drumrollpleeze]

Old bottom paint removal

A few years ago I used a product called Star Ten. This stuff works!! After using this product, I'll never sand again. Go to www.starten.com for details.

 

[jprieto]

painting under the bunks

Bad: you should get two boat stands by scouting the internet for them (at a discount.)Then you can use two stands on a side to lift the weight off the bunk boards, allowing you to drop the boards and paint under them. We have done this for 4 years on a Hunter 23.

 

[Paul (Affinity C320)]

Don't dry sand

For years I have been using a dry wall sander, wet down the bottom, sand and rinse. After it drys paint. No more respirator.

 

[Terry Cox]

Paul, many marinas on the left coast ...

will not let you wet sand, especially the public ones, because of environmental restrictions.Terry

 

[scott]

DIY

I have done all maintenance on a 19 foot keel boat for four years. I am no expert, and my frugal wife watches the bills.I have used the cheapest West Marine ablative paint with good results. I just pulled the boat today(in since May), and a vigorous wash with one of those carwash brushes that you hook up a hose to took off all of the fouling. The only barnacles are on the areas that were not painted. I use about a half gallon a year, and buy a gallon when it is on sale. This year I used paint that was a year old with good results.After considering vaious schemes to paint the spots under the cradle pads (an old-timer I know actually beaches his boat to paint it while it is on its side), I just leave the spots unpainted. In the spring I use a small orbital sander on a wet hull (I use a tarp to catch as much of the waste as possible and then throw it away.I am fortunate that I can keep the boat in the yard of my apartment and take care of maintenence without the "yard rules". Around here most commercial yards will not let you do any maintenence yourself.I suggest that if you are not racing the boat to keep her in good shape, but don't waste your money and time with perfection.