My boat's hauled, and I went by to visit it sitting in the Pilot's Point South yard. The first thing that struck me was how good the bottom job still looked. Last spring I did two coats of Micron CSC, an ablative copolymer paint. I worried at the time that I might have needed three coats. But looking at the paint, well it looks about like it did when the job was finished this spring. So, are looks deceiving? Even though the paint looks fine, could it be ineffective? Should I go ahead and plan to paint in the spring, or could I skip it? Paul sv Escape Artist h336
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carisea
bottom job
I assume this inspection was after a power wash but if you saw only slime on the hull and no barnacles or worms I would think there is no need to automatically repaint.Keeping your boat in the north with colder water I believe gets you a reduced growth rate naturally. The prop and shaft may have barnacles or electrolysis issues however if the prop has not been painted.
I assume this inspection was after a power wash but if you saw only slime on the hull and no barnacles or worms I would think there is no need to automatically repaint.Keeping your boat in the north with colder water I believe gets you a reduced growth rate naturally. The prop and shaft may have barnacles or electrolysis issues however if the prop has not been painted.
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Bob
Interlux says YES
Hi Paul, Interlux recommends painting when the paint wears away. You should expect to wear away 1 - 2 coats of bottom paint on the leading edges, water line and very little on flat surfaces. I have been using ablative paint since 1990 (micron 33)- more than 10 years with no scraping or build up. The latest paint (Ultra) with additive for slime is really impressive. Every year I put a full coat on leading edges and water line gets 2 coats. I put a thinned coat (20%) over the rest just for appearance. Key is to let the paint wear away - not build up. Had my boat stripped and primed in 1990 to get rid of 12 years of standard bottom paint and started using Interlux ablative paint. Only way to go. The ablative paint will stay active as long as it is on the boat. Happy sailing _) Bob
Hi Paul, Interlux recommends painting when the paint wears away. You should expect to wear away 1 - 2 coats of bottom paint on the leading edges, water line and very little on flat surfaces. I have been using ablative paint since 1990 (micron 33)- more than 10 years with no scraping or build up. The latest paint (Ultra) with additive for slime is really impressive. Every year I put a full coat on leading edges and water line gets 2 coats. I put a thinned coat (20%) over the rest just for appearance. Key is to let the paint wear away - not build up. Had my boat stripped and primed in 1990 to get rid of 12 years of standard bottom paint and started using Interlux ablative paint. Only way to go. The ablative paint will stay active as long as it is on the boat. Happy sailing _) Bob
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Paul
I'll give the waterline a closer inspection
... and the leading edges, too. I'll also try the Ultra next time. Great to hear from someone who has actually used a product and had success with it. Thanks for the good advice! Paul
... and the leading edges, too. I'll also try the Ultra next time. Great to hear from someone who has actually used a product and had success with it. Thanks for the good advice! Paul
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R. Young
Yearly painting is unnecessary & unadvisable
Agree with all previous comments. Yearly painting actually defeats the purpose for using an ablative paint. The old trick is to use 2 different colors, say 2 coats of black followed by blue. When you start to see black, then you can give it another coat. On Destiny, I can usually go for 2 years and then apply a coat on the third year. Each year I apply a "patch" to those areas that wear such as the water line and near the bow. And for what it is worth, I also have not had to sand prior to painting, a soap washing is sufficient (in addition to the power spray done at haulout). I used Micron CSC Extra and now use the same with the Biolux - excellant results (In NJ raritan bay area).
Agree with all previous comments. Yearly painting actually defeats the purpose for using an ablative paint. The old trick is to use 2 different colors, say 2 coats of black followed by blue. When you start to see black, then you can give it another coat. On Destiny, I can usually go for 2 years and then apply a coat on the third year. Each year I apply a "patch" to those areas that wear such as the water line and near the bow. And for what it is worth, I also have not had to sand prior to painting, a soap washing is sufficient (in addition to the power spray done at haulout). I used Micron CSC Extra and now use the same with the Biolux - excellant results (In NJ raritan bay area).
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Peter J. Brennan
Touch up
is all you really need. Practical Sailor tested these ablatuives and determined they reall rea multiseasonl. That's a good thing considering what they cost. But they will wear faster at leading edges, the water line and the bottom of the keel if you ever ground. So touch up is a good idea. We jsut go for a short haul in the slings, get the barnacles off the prop and shat and through hulls and touch up the water line and the leading edge of keel and rudder and the bottom of the keel. A quart will manage that. But we are ruunning into another problem, which is not the fault of this paint. The boat had ACP50 on it when we bought her. But that paint was not apparently aplied to a fully stripped bottom. Now the very base paint is beginning to flake lifting the ablative with it. This is annoying but not yet reason to take the boat down to the gelcoat. Did that once -- never want to do it again.
is all you really need. Practical Sailor tested these ablatuives and determined they reall rea multiseasonl. That's a good thing considering what they cost. But they will wear faster at leading edges, the water line and the bottom of the keel if you ever ground. So touch up is a good idea. We jsut go for a short haul in the slings, get the barnacles off the prop and shat and through hulls and touch up the water line and the leading edge of keel and rudder and the bottom of the keel. A quart will manage that. But we are ruunning into another problem, which is not the fault of this paint. The boat had ACP50 on it when we bought her. But that paint was not apparently aplied to a fully stripped bottom. Now the very base paint is beginning to flake lifting the ablative with it. This is annoying but not yet reason to take the boat down to the gelcoat. Did that once -- never want to do it again.
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larry w.
Bottom paint
Paul; I typically get three years from a bottom job in the cool water of Southern California. I use Pettit Trinidad.
Paul; I typically get three years from a bottom job in the cool water of Southern California. I use Pettit Trinidad.
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