What is bonding? How do you know if you boat is properly Bonded. I have a 1979 Hunter30. I bought it used 20 year ago.
Bonding
- Thread starter Denis Martin
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Denis, West Advisors are your friend.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...01&page=Marine-Grounding-Systems#.UfqfBW3pz-I
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...01&page=Marine-Grounding-Systems#.UfqfBW3pz-I
you are talking grounding. West Adviser (Stu's link) is a great resource to understand that you CANNOT just "ground stuff" and expect to have success.
there is a distinct difference between bonding and grounding. Especially on a boat.
Grounding is just what it says, electrical things are connected to 12vdc and Ground for current to flow. 110vac and Neutral and Ground for current to flow and circuit protection to work correctly in the event a conductor is broken. Lightning protection can come in to play here. Be careful
Bonding is tying disparate pieces of metal (that are underwater) together so that they have no voltage potential between them. This can be done to prevent shock hazard when touching two of those things at the same time, with each possibly having a potential voltage difference. Or the more common reason to bond (and one that West apparently does not endorse, but the article is from the 1990's so newer research is out there) is to prevent galvanic activity...another may be that RF from a SSB/Ham rig is causing some voltage strays. Effective bonding is only as good as the connecting wire and lugs and understanding noble metals and galvanic action...ie which are which - don't mechanically tie copper to stainless with a hose clamp and expect it to work.
Read up on each, as tying grounds (AC or/and DC) to a bonded device or string of devices may CAUSE galvanic activity, or even worse circuit safety devices to NOT work or not work correctly.
IF in doubt, consult an electrician or marine tech that is knowledgeable. Please don't just tie everything together and hope that it is safe.
Grounding is just what it says, electrical things are connected to 12vdc and Ground for current to flow. 110vac and Neutral and Ground for current to flow and circuit protection to work correctly in the event a conductor is broken. Lightning protection can come in to play here. Be careful
Bonding is tying disparate pieces of metal (that are underwater) together so that they have no voltage potential between them. This can be done to prevent shock hazard when touching two of those things at the same time, with each possibly having a potential voltage difference. Or the more common reason to bond (and one that West apparently does not endorse, but the article is from the 1990's so newer research is out there) is to prevent galvanic activity...another may be that RF from a SSB/Ham rig is causing some voltage strays. Effective bonding is only as good as the connecting wire and lugs and understanding noble metals and galvanic action...ie which are which - don't mechanically tie copper to stainless with a hose clamp and expect it to work.
Read up on each, as tying grounds (AC or/and DC) to a bonded device or string of devices may CAUSE galvanic activity, or even worse circuit safety devices to NOT work or not work correctly.
IF in doubt, consult an electrician or marine tech that is knowledgeable. Please don't just tie everything together and hope that it is safe.
The article that Bill is talking about is a good one and is still valid. There is only one ground point on an ac system and that is at its point of service where the neutral and ground rod or plate are tied together, after this point it is a bond. If you have an isolation transformer, then your ground is at the secondary of that because that is where the neutral and the ground will be tied together. They should never be tied together afterwards. bonding any 2 points of metal exposed to the water and that are any distance apart will promote galvanic action as electricity flows in a circuit only. You create a circuit in the water when you tie those 2 points together with a bond. They literally become a battery and if they are 2 different metals, then the less proud will disappear and faster than you might think. If they are isolated in fiberglass, no circuit, no problem. You have to perform du diligence in ensuring that these isolated points are not tied to the electrical system in any way so they do not become a hazard.
Whew, that was difficult to understand, but I think you meant it in the right way. 
Also, try www.bluesea.com, they have some good electrical information.
Also, try www.bluesea.com, they have some good electrical information.
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