Hello again everyone. Got another question. It seems that I'm developing some corrosion of the aft most keel boat (as it's often sitting in stagnant bilge water) on my H33 - where the leak's coming from is another mystery entirely at this point. This has brought me to thinking about grounding/bonding. I was wondering if anyone knows whether the keel on these boats is used as the ground or if a grounding plate should be/probably is attached somewhere. I've only seen the bottom of my boat during haul out when I bought it last year and cannot remember seeing anything such as a grounding plate. I know there's a difference between galvanic and electrolytic corrosion (plus lightning protection measures) and I guess I'm very vaugely asking what and how everyone is doing to avoid corrosion caused by electrical potential/stray current aboard their boats? Copper wire to attach everything metal? Leading to the keel? What gauges? Maybe someone could just suggest some good reading on the subject somewhere on the web or in a specific book. As usual, thanks much in advance. Aubrey, GusBus II
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Bonding? Grounding
Ther compresion poston on my '83 Hunter 33 is connected electricly via what looks like a short piece of #8 stranded wire to one of the keel bolts just aft of the post. The mast of course sits on the pulpit which (I hope) is through-bolted to the top of the compression post. This, it would appear is the sum total of lightning protection so far on my 33, and I can't say if it was done by Hunter or the previous, orriginal owner. For what it's worth, I haven't yet noticed any corrosion on any of the keel bolts, and my bilge does tend to be wet (about an inch of water) both while in the water and out). There is leakage from above I haven't been able to locate yet. Probable reason the bolt hasn't corroded might be that the water from above is mostly fresh, as opposed to salt from the hull. There are people frequenting the site who are far more expert on this sort of thing than I, but I think my first line of attack would be a good cleaning of the bolts followed by a solid spraying with aerosol grease. Noter I said grease and NOT W D - 40. W D - 40 will wash away in about 10 seconds. It's only kerosene. I would lean towards motorcycle chain lube or a product called L P S - 3. Either would go on as a foam, penetrate, then thicken up into water resistant grease. Let us know how you make out. Sam Lust tech051@mindspring.com
Ther compresion poston on my '83 Hunter 33 is connected electricly via what looks like a short piece of #8 stranded wire to one of the keel bolts just aft of the post. The mast of course sits on the pulpit which (I hope) is through-bolted to the top of the compression post. This, it would appear is the sum total of lightning protection so far on my 33, and I can't say if it was done by Hunter or the previous, orriginal owner. For what it's worth, I haven't yet noticed any corrosion on any of the keel bolts, and my bilge does tend to be wet (about an inch of water) both while in the water and out). There is leakage from above I haven't been able to locate yet. Probable reason the bolt hasn't corroded might be that the water from above is mostly fresh, as opposed to salt from the hull. There are people frequenting the site who are far more expert on this sort of thing than I, but I think my first line of attack would be a good cleaning of the bolts followed by a solid spraying with aerosol grease. Noter I said grease and NOT W D - 40. W D - 40 will wash away in about 10 seconds. It's only kerosene. I would lean towards motorcycle chain lube or a product called L P S - 3. Either would go on as a foam, penetrate, then thicken up into water resistant grease. Let us know how you make out. Sam Lust tech051@mindspring.com
Bonding
There is a publication called BOAT & YACHT CORROSION CONTROL by Yacht Corrosion Consultants, Inc. Ventura, CA phone 805 644 1886, that I have found very informative for the lay person. Chapter 2 covers bonding. This publication is a few years old so I don't know if the above address and phone number are still valid.
There is a publication called BOAT & YACHT CORROSION CONTROL by Yacht Corrosion Consultants, Inc. Ventura, CA phone 805 644 1886, that I have found very informative for the lay person. Chapter 2 covers bonding. This publication is a few years old so I don't know if the above address and phone number are still valid.
Aubrey, the water comes from........
the continious dripping of the shaft log which needs to drip about 1 drip per 30 to 60 seconds and from the ice box which when you use ice in the galley's cooler, it melts and then drains to the bilge. Those sailors that have refrig. might forget this. Also, any water from most any area in the v-berth and main cabin will find its way there also. I noticed a place that had rusted in mine also, and found that it was from the little metal clips that come on ice bags and fall off when the bag is opened, they usually find themselves rusting in the bottom of the cooler but one made it to the bilge when I did a major rinse. So, thats prob. where your rust is coming from, not the S.S. bolts to the keel. O...... I would not use any kind of oil, grease or simular type of product in the bilge being it gets pumped overboard and would be a heavy fine if you get caught not to mention the mess its makes of your water line. Good luck.
the continious dripping of the shaft log which needs to drip about 1 drip per 30 to 60 seconds and from the ice box which when you use ice in the galley's cooler, it melts and then drains to the bilge. Those sailors that have refrig. might forget this. Also, any water from most any area in the v-berth and main cabin will find its way there also. I noticed a place that had rusted in mine also, and found that it was from the little metal clips that come on ice bags and fall off when the bag is opened, they usually find themselves rusting in the bottom of the cooler but one made it to the bilge when I did a major rinse. So, thats prob. where your rust is coming from, not the S.S. bolts to the keel. O...... I would not use any kind of oil, grease or simular type of product in the bilge being it gets pumped overboard and would be a heavy fine if you get caught not to mention the mess its makes of your water line. Good luck.
I said WATER RESISTANT!
One of the reasons not to use W D - 40. It rinses right off with water. The products I recommended are not water soluable and will not wash away with water, hence their appropriateness in this instance.
One of the reasons not to use W D - 40. It rinses right off with water. The products I recommended are not water soluable and will not wash away with water, hence their appropriateness in this instance.
shoulda known...
David U., thanks for helping me pull my head out! If I'd only thought about it for a moment, I wouldn't have put the line in there about not having a clue where the leak is...I've also got the portlight in the head leaking so that helps explain it. It's just that I was under the impression that if one knows what they're doing they can lead any stray current that may be around to a better spot so that it doesn't corrode important items (i.e. keel bolts)! Maybe this is more of a galvanic problem cause by the difference between the nobility of whatever type metals I've got in the bilge (I know, for example, that I need to replace the hose clamps on plumbing connected to my bilge pumps VERY soon). I think I'll pick up one of those pubs David mentioned as I'm obviously not up to speed here. Thanks very much for everyone's comments. If I suddenly become an expert on the subject I'll post some info....but don't count on it! Aubrey, GusBus II
David U., thanks for helping me pull my head out! If I'd only thought about it for a moment, I wouldn't have put the line in there about not having a clue where the leak is...I've also got the portlight in the head leaking so that helps explain it. It's just that I was under the impression that if one knows what they're doing they can lead any stray current that may be around to a better spot so that it doesn't corrode important items (i.e. keel bolts)! Maybe this is more of a galvanic problem cause by the difference between the nobility of whatever type metals I've got in the bilge (I know, for example, that I need to replace the hose clamps on plumbing connected to my bilge pumps VERY soon). I think I'll pick up one of those pubs David mentioned as I'm obviously not up to speed here. Thanks very much for everyone's comments. If I suddenly become an expert on the subject I'll post some info....but don't count on it! Aubrey, GusBus II
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