Bomar hatch trim ring removal

Dolphin55

Dolphin55

.
Apr 14, 2018
72
Hunter 240 San Diego
The hinges on my Bomar hatch (the cockpit hatch under the lazarette leading underneath into the back berth area) are broken. Need to replace it. Anyone know how to remove the hatch ring? Removed the 14 screws but the ring won't come out. Any advice?
 

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CurtisC

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Feb 21, 2019
46
Catalina 30 TR 3571 Cocoa, FL
From what you've described I'd have to assume you're up against the original sealant or bedding compound. Try working a sharp edged putty Knife around the perimeter prying upward as you go. If it was bedded properly it should come up with some effort and patience. If still stubborn, heat the surfaces up with a hairdryer or heat gun held at a distance (objective being warm as much as possible without deforming the hatch ring). Start at a corner with the knife and gentle upward prying force as you go, work around the perimeter. Old sun bleached plastic won't stand for to much persuasion, iterative passes are better more force. Good luck.
 
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tfox2069

tfox2069

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Apr 8, 2011
772
Hunter 40 Deale, MD
Dolphin55 said:
The hinges on my Bomar hatch (the cockpit hatch under the lazarette leading underneath into the back berth area) are broken. Need to replace it. Anyone know how to remove the hatch ring? Removed the 14 screws but the ring won't come out. Any advice?
Click to expand
Following. Gonna have to do the same thing myself over winter to fix a leak. Go figure. Its the one hatch on my H36 that's under canvas, and under a seat, and it still leaks. I ended up buying a new trim ring from SBO as the ring that's in now is already cracked in a few places where the screws are driven through it. Planning on using butyl to seat the new trim ring.
 
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Dolphin55

Dolphin55

.
Apr 14, 2018
72
Hunter 240 San Diego
CurtisC said:
From what you've described I'd have to assume you're up against the original sealant or bedding compound. Try working a sharp edged putty Knife around the perimeter prying upward as you go. If it was bedded properly it should come up with some effort and patience. If still stubborn, heat the surfaces up with a hairdryer or heat gun held at a distance (objective being warm as much as possible without deforming the hatch ring). Start at a corner with the knife and gentle upward prying force as you go, work around the perimeter. Old sun bleached plastic won't stand for to much persuasion, iterative passes are better more force. Good luck.
Click to expand
Thanks a lot, Curtis. Al confirms. May have to meticulously chip it out. Reconsidering leaving it for now with a semi-functional hatch.
 
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Crazy Dave Condon

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Jun 8, 2004
10,399
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Sent a private message. Former dealer and involved with the water ballast. Knew Al you spoke about from the time he started with Hunter. They probably used 5200 To the other poster, you may have a slight depression on that edge where the frame sits and used a plastic shim to level out the edge. Also never over tighten screws as it can cause plastic to crack.
Can you take a photo of the inside port hole?
Former dealer very much involved with the water ballast now retired
 
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All U Get

All U Get

.
Oct 2, 2008
3,810
Pearson/ 530 Strafford, NH
Little wedges around the hatch will help. I found many uses for these at home and on the boat.
1607346148312.jpeg

1607346148312.jpeg
 
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