Bolts through deck?

frankdeba27 · Mar 23, 2009

We used backing plates for the winches,?clutches and deck organizers.?
Frank & Tena DeBaggis Carpe Diem, Vega 2141

TJBurkett · Mar 23, 2009

Hi Patrick,

Not only do you need backing plates, but since the deck has a foam core it's important that you seal the foam from any possible water intrusion. What I do is to mark the location of the holes then drill an oversize hole and fill that hole with thickened epoxy- a syringe works well to inject the epoxy. After the epoxy sets I then drill the right size hole through the epoxy. This insures that the core is sealed and also helps to minimize any crushing of the core and deck in the area of the bolt.

Good luck,

Tom

pjacobs55 · Mar 23, 2009

Patrick,
What Tom said, plus: there's a good thread on this subject at

http://tinyurl.com/crxjzq

For a 1/4" hole, I drill a 3/8" hole through the top layer only, use a bent nail in a drill (or a pick) to remove the foam core for about 3/4" to 1" diameter around the hole, pour in some unthickened epoxy, then trowel in thickened epoxy to fill the void. After it sets up, I drill the 1/4" hole right through. (For smaller fasteners I use correspondingly smaller holes.) I find this method avoids annoying epoxy dribbles into the cabin.
Hope this helps.
Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'

pjacobs55 · Mar 24, 2009

No. Backing plate goes against the ceiling. Look at your bow cleat, it should have a backing plate - do it like that (maybe with a nicer plate if it is highly visible).Nicholas H. Walsh P.A.
111 Commercial St.
Portland ME 04101
207/772-2191
Fax 207/774-3940

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From: pwhitney100
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 9:12 PM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AlbinVega] Re: Bolts through deck?Tom and Peter;

Thanks for the redirection.

I assume there is an airspace between the ceiling surface and the foam and that I should cut the surface away and put the backing plate against the foam.

Does this sound right?

vegatern · Mar 24, 2009

The backing plates can be made of stainless steel plate which can be polished bright using compounds available from a welding supplier, or aluminum plate which is easier to paint. I used a length of steel strap under the deck organizers. Using acorn nuts inside the cabin makes them look more finished.
Craig Tern V1519

-- In AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com, "Nico Walsh" nwalsh@... wrote:

sailshiva · Mar 24, 2009

I've attached a photo of the plug we took out when we cut a hole in the cabin roof of Shiva to put in the chimney for our Wallas Stove/heater. As you can see, there's no hollow space.

This plug came out just forward of the galley sink on the starboard side. You can see it is about 1/4 inch of fiberglass from the cabin top, about a 1/2 inch of foam, and about an 1/8 inch of ceiling fiberglass.

We did a similar thing to Craig when we installed rope clutch on the cabin top--steel backing plate, acorn nuts. At first, I thought, hummmm, pretty ugly. But quickly got used to it.

Sheila

pjacobs55 · Mar 24, 2009

The deck is 'sandwich' construction: a foam core bonded to fiberglass panels on either side to make a very strong light-weight panel. The foam is bonded to the fiberglass, although on boats the age of our Vegas it can come loose in areas. Water intrusion and flexing are the main culprits. Not too much one can do about normal flexing, but water intrusion can be kept to a minimum by treating holes as descried in previous posts.

I make my backing plates from 3/16" aluminum (from old street signs) and polish them on a buffing wheel. The plates should be a bit larger (about 1/4" all around) than the object bolted to the deck, to spread the load.

Acorn nuts are scalp-savers, although I prefer nylocks and trim the bolt end flush with the nut.

One suggestion: After filling the holes with epoxy, drill them out slightly less than the bolt size, and thread the hole with a tap. This allows you to install the bolt and tighten it, then go below and install the nut, without needing a second person above holding the bolt head.

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'

D_Chown · Mar 24, 2009

An alternative technique can avoid an unsightly backing plate. All work is done from the top, none from below. Drill as large holes as possible under whatever is to be attached (organizer, winch, clutch..) but ensuring that they will be fully covered and concealed by the attachment. These holes will often be about 1" dia. Drill these holes only though the top fiberglass and into the foam core but not through the lower fibreglass. Don't drill where the attachment screws will actually go. Next pick out as much as possible of the core around each hole - going about an inch beyond the rim of each hole. Next insert a piece of hardwood under where each screw is going to go. These pieces will be about 3/4" square and 3/8" - 1/2" thick. Now fill in all remaining void with polyester resin (preferably with a few chopped glass strands in it), level with the top of the gelcoat. When fully cured drill and attach item with woodscrews. Cosmetically
perfect! Becuase the organisers I used had no bottom plate I sat them on a rectangular piece of delrin, which served to cover up the big holes between the fixing screws. The winch screwed down directly and I sat my bank of clutches on a plywood base for convenience. Now you may not think this is strong enough but in my experience it is!

groundhogyh · Mar 24, 2009

Don't know if anyone mentioned this yet, but there are wires routed in the deck. Consult your owner manual for approximate locations before drilling holes. But I don't think they are in the area you are considering... but don't take my word for it.
r