I have a 2006 Catalina 18 MK 11. When the boat is loaded onto the trailer in the water I can winch the bow flush up to the plastic V on the trailer. When I pull the boat out of the water the bow always slips back about 6 to 8 inches away from the plastic. Trying to winch the bow back up so as to be flush with the plastic is difficult and more importantly, I have been told that I am really placing undue strain on the hook on the bow of the boat and could cause enough strain so as to crack the front where the hook is and in fact could result in serious damage and pull the hook out of the boat. Is it dangerous to tow the boat if the bow is not resting flush aginst the plastic?
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Not sure how much your boat weighs but...
You might be surprised at how easy it is to push it further up on the trailer from the back (instead of winching it up). Once you're on level ground with the bunks still wet, of course. Might take 2 people.
You might be surprised at how easy it is to push it further up on the trailer from the back (instead of winching it up). Once you're on level ground with the bunks still wet, of course. Might take 2 people.
Boat slippage
I had a similar problem with our previous boat (a Macgregor 26). The problem is not that the boat is slipping back in the trailer, but that as you pull up the ramp and the boat settles onto the bunks, the angle changes and the bow rotates away from the stop. The best solution that I found was to drain the ballast, lower the mast, then drive slowly down a slight incline and tap the brakes reasonably hard. Worked every time, although a tad unnerving the first try. Good luck Ken
I had a similar problem with our previous boat (a Macgregor 26). The problem is not that the boat is slipping back in the trailer, but that as you pull up the ramp and the boat settles onto the bunks, the angle changes and the bow rotates away from the stop. The best solution that I found was to drain the ballast, lower the mast, then drive slowly down a slight incline and tap the brakes reasonably hard. Worked every time, although a tad unnerving the first try. Good luck Ken
Same answer different words.
The earlier responses are generally correct but could be expressed differently. The boat is probably not actually moving back. I have an old CorrectCraft Ski Nautique with the same issue. It is an inboard with a drive-on trailer and no winch. We drive it up to the bow chocks, hook a chain and drive the rig up off the ramp. Because the stern is floating at hook-up and the bow is angled...The bow eye pulls away from the chock as the angle of the bow to the trailer changes with the stern settling as the trailer comes out of the water. There is no way to ever snug her up enough on the ramp with the stern floating and be snug on the level road. Usually, if I'm driving the truck, I tap the brakes hard at the top of the ramp and she will slide forward. It takes a little practice to get her snug without slamming. Even though she is a heavy boat with one inch thick solid glass bottom and a V-8 inboard engine, I can slide her up snug by putting a shoulder to the transom when someone else is hauling for me (not many of my friends care to drive the boat onto the trailer...it takes a bit of nerve to drop the throttle on a powerful V-8 aimed at your tailgate).
The earlier responses are generally correct but could be expressed differently. The boat is probably not actually moving back. I have an old CorrectCraft Ski Nautique with the same issue. It is an inboard with a drive-on trailer and no winch. We drive it up to the bow chocks, hook a chain and drive the rig up off the ramp. Because the stern is floating at hook-up and the bow is angled...The bow eye pulls away from the chock as the angle of the bow to the trailer changes with the stern settling as the trailer comes out of the water. There is no way to ever snug her up enough on the ramp with the stern floating and be snug on the level road. Usually, if I'm driving the truck, I tap the brakes hard at the top of the ramp and she will slide forward. It takes a little practice to get her snug without slamming. Even though she is a heavy boat with one inch thick solid glass bottom and a V-8 inboard engine, I can slide her up snug by putting a shoulder to the transom when someone else is hauling for me (not many of my friends care to drive the boat onto the trailer...it takes a bit of nerve to drop the throttle on a powerful V-8 aimed at your tailgate).
Driving on Trailer
Ah, now we know who is causing the bent trailer axles and wash outs at the launch ramp!!!! At our marina "powering on" is subject to a $25.00 fine for the first offense and loss of launch privledges for the second offense.
Ah, now we know who is causing the bent trailer axles and wash outs at the launch ramp!!!! At our marina "powering on" is subject to a $25.00 fine for the first offense and loss of launch privledges for the second offense.
It's all geometry...
and a steep ramp makes it worse. On my trailer, I have an adjustable roller just under the bow that aligns everything as I winch it up. This lifts the bow (slightly) into proper position and when I pull out, the rest of the boat settles onto the bunks. The bow stays tight. It took me a few trys to get it adjusted just right, but works great now. Dave
and a steep ramp makes it worse. On my trailer, I have an adjustable roller just under the bow that aligns everything as I winch it up. This lifts the bow (slightly) into proper position and when I pull out, the rest of the boat settles onto the bunks. The bow stays tight. It took me a few trys to get it adjusted just right, but works great now. Dave
Bent axles?
Heheheh, they ought to take those fines at your marina and build a proper ramp <grin>. There is really no reason for a properly constructed ramp to washout from drive-on loading, even by novices. And, a competent driver should never cause washout even on a dirt ramp. Unfortunately, we often penalize everyone for the actions of a few fools. We have had inboard ski boats in our family for decades without any problems of bent axles or causing washouts. Many of the ramps where we can load, are paved out to deep water but some are dirt. You can't safely load or unload an inboard with a winch or in shallow water and it requires a bit of experience to do properly. But, bringing the topic back to sailboats and trailers, washouts really aren't an issue, but the floating stern is and this comment points to a different solution. The entire problem of not being snug can be avoided by not backing your trailer down so far that the stern floats when the bow is in the chock. If you stop backing when the bunks are just barely wet, the boat will load properly, though it may be a bit more work to crank her up. When you pull out level it should still be snug up against the bow chock
Heheheh, they ought to take those fines at your marina and build a proper ramp <grin>. There is really no reason for a properly constructed ramp to washout from drive-on loading, even by novices. And, a competent driver should never cause washout even on a dirt ramp. Unfortunately, we often penalize everyone for the actions of a few fools. We have had inboard ski boats in our family for decades without any problems of bent axles or causing washouts. Many of the ramps where we can load, are paved out to deep water but some are dirt. You can't safely load or unload an inboard with a winch or in shallow water and it requires a bit of experience to do properly. But, bringing the topic back to sailboats and trailers, washouts really aren't an issue, but the floating stern is and this comment points to a different solution. The entire problem of not being snug can be avoided by not backing your trailer down so far that the stern floats when the bow is in the chock. If you stop backing when the bunks are just barely wet, the boat will load properly, though it may be a bit more work to crank her up. When you pull out level it should still be snug up against the bow chock
Trailer setup
Your trailer is not set up properly. The front of your boat bunks are too low or the bow chock is too high. Ken Bell is right on what is happening with the boat and trailer as you go up the ramp. The ideal set up would be for the front end of the bunks be just submerged when loading the boat, float the boat on the bunks and the bow should come to within a foot of the bow chock, a good hard pull or one crank of the trailer winch would be ideal. If your boat floats right up the chock then the hull is not in contact with the front of the bunks. If your trailer tows very well with the boat on, in it’s present position, does not sway back and forth, then lower and shorten the bow chock. If towing the boat does not feel perfect then raise the front or the whole bunk thus moving the boat forward on the trailer.
Your trailer is not set up properly. The front of your boat bunks are too low or the bow chock is too high. Ken Bell is right on what is happening with the boat and trailer as you go up the ramp. The ideal set up would be for the front end of the bunks be just submerged when loading the boat, float the boat on the bunks and the bow should come to within a foot of the bow chock, a good hard pull or one crank of the trailer winch would be ideal. If your boat floats right up the chock then the hull is not in contact with the front of the bunks. If your trailer tows very well with the boat on, in it’s present position, does not sway back and forth, then lower and shorten the bow chock. If towing the boat does not feel perfect then raise the front or the whole bunk thus moving the boat forward on the trailer.
Try a couple of different ways,
I have had that problem with different boats and the solution for me varies with different ramps. What I find works for me on my M25 is to back into the water FUTHER, not less. Then I can pull the bow up tight against the bow stop, right to the spot the boat should touch the bow stop when properly loaded on level ground. The winch strap holds the front of the boat in place and lifts the bow as I slowly pull up the ramp. Then the back of the boat settles on the bunks as the trailer starts comming out of the water. I have a mark on the trailer now where the water line should be for proper loading. If you can, when the ramp is not busy, try a few different things, back in some more and winch up the strap, pull up 10 feet or so and look at the boat. Has it settled on the trailer and pulled back from the bow stop? Back down the ramp again, a little further this time and try again. Good luck
I have had that problem with different boats and the solution for me varies with different ramps. What I find works for me on my M25 is to back into the water FUTHER, not less. Then I can pull the bow up tight against the bow stop, right to the spot the boat should touch the bow stop when properly loaded on level ground. The winch strap holds the front of the boat in place and lifts the bow as I slowly pull up the ramp. Then the back of the boat settles on the bunks as the trailer starts comming out of the water. I have a mark on the trailer now where the water line should be for proper loading. If you can, when the ramp is not busy, try a few different things, back in some more and winch up the strap, pull up 10 feet or so and look at the boat. Has it settled on the trailer and pulled back from the bow stop? Back down the ramp again, a little further this time and try again. Good luck
Turnbuckle works for me
Two years ago I added a 12 inch turnbuckle which hooks onto the bow pad eye at the same time as the winch hook ie. at the bottom of the ramp. The other end drops onto a hook welded onto the 2nd top step of my Mac26X trailer. I wouldn't be without it as slippage from the bow chock is now a thing of the past. Ron
Two years ago I added a 12 inch turnbuckle which hooks onto the bow pad eye at the same time as the winch hook ie. at the bottom of the ramp. The other end drops onto a hook welded onto the 2nd top step of my Mac26X trailer. I wouldn't be without it as slippage from the bow chock is now a thing of the past. Ron
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