Blocks for reefing

[Ron Mehringer]

Thanks Bob

That web site is a good resource that I was unfamiliar with. I've never seen a block like the one you've identified (photo attached). It's just what the doctor ordered. Thanks Bob.Ron Mehringers/v Hydro-Therapy

 

[Rick Macdonald]

Ron - PX0812 PowerCleat installation question

Ron - I hope you see this soon as I'm off to the lake on Friday to install these cleats!I just received my PX0812's in the mail. I had gone out and bought some shorter screws, 1/4x20 by 1-1/4" and also 1-1/2" just in case. The originals are 2 inch.I see your point about enlarging the rear countersink for the pan head, but I also find that the 1/4 inch screw doesn't fit through the holes in the cleat. Did you bore those out too, or just force it through by turning with a screw driver? (ie as if the screw was self-tapping).Looking at your picture, it looks like you didn't install the 11 degree wedges that come with the package, or maybe they didn't come with yours. Do you find that they may have helped? I know you said you had no problem, but since I have them what do you recommend?Also, do you know what size your jib sheets are? I'm guessing 3/8 by your picture. Since I have to buy longer sheets anyway, I think I'll try the max 7/16 if I can get it. Just wondering if you wish yours were thicker.

 

[Rick Webb]

If I May, In Case You Miss Ron

The front part of the cleat is the only part you need to worry about the screw head. It would be very difficult to get to the other hole anyway. I did not use the wedges as it exacerbates the screw head issue. I elected to put the cleats on top of teak blocks. I do not ever use the winches so this was a great addition. I can sit in the stern rail seats and release the jib sheets. The larger line can be a little stubborn to feed through I leave mine on so it is not an everyday issue. There are pictures in the photo forum somewhere of mine. I'll look after I get the kids on the bus and add the link.

 

[Rick Webb]

Here is The Link

Looks pretty much like Ron's. You will wonder why they were not built like this in the first place after you do yours.

 

[Tim Paul]

Power Cleat Wedges

When I installed my Powercleats, I was going to use the wedges. However, the way they're designed caused the screws to go off on an angle rather than straight down. Since I was intent on using the existing screw holes I chose not to install them and have had no problems.

 

[Rick Webb]

I Perhaps Should Add

I considered using the 1/4" screws to hold the teak on and then mounting the cleats with #10 maybe #12 wood screws into the teak. That way I could have used the wedges. Just another option to keep you befuddled.

 

[Rick Macdonald]

screw hole diameter?

Thanks, Rick. What about the screw diameter itself? I think you said before that you installed yours 3 years ago. Do you remember if you drilled out the screw holes in the PX itself or just forced the screw through?Oh, I just read Tim's point about the wedges causing the screws to be at an angle. I assumed that the slots in the wedge were such that the screws could pass through vertically, but they actually seem to line up so the slot aids the angle, not the vertical. It's hard to put into words, but to allow the screws to be vertical to the deck surface, the slots in the wedge should be moved towards the thin end of the wedge. Plus, the holes in the PX itself would also have to be slots as well.I think I'll install them first without bedding sealant to make sure I can work them, and then add the blocks and/or wedges only if necessary. If I hit a problem, the original cleats can be put back on in minutes to keep me going until I get the right parts. Ron's photos look exactly like my cleat location so I hope to be fine without any riser or wedge as he is.Still want to know if I should bore the holes in the PX to 1/4 instead of forcing those screws through! The plastic doesn't look like it would split but you guys would know!Ah, another detail. The shorter screws that I bought are pan head but not flat on top. They are rounded/domed on top. This means an even deeper counter-sink as the heads are also too wide. If they were flat on top, the counter-sink would be less. Does anybody remember if they found flat-topped screws? I'm not near the boat and I didn't notice if the original 2" screws are flat on top or not.

 

[Rick Webb]

Holes

A 1/4" screw will fit through the hole with no problem. A little snug but no need for force. I bought flat head screws and cannot remember what was on ther before. I used a 1/2" countersinc to get the screw flush. If the screw has to be put through the cleat with anything more than your fingers I'd drill the hole through with like a 7/32 or a 3/16 bit.Good Luck

 

[Rick Macdonald]

My holes are smaller

There's no way I can turn the 1/4" screws through the PX holes with my fingers. I haven't tried with a screw driver for fear of breaking it. The drill template holes measure 13/64 but the PX holes are 3/16. Enlarging to 7/32 or even 15/64 if need be seems in order. I have a 1/2" countersink bit but I'll look around for a flat head or try filing these flat to reduce the amount that I have to remove with the countersink.Thanks!

 

[Ron Mehringer]

Rick...

...my jib sheets are the stock 3/8".My Powercleats did not come with the wedges, and thus far I have seen no need for them. Time will tell.I drilled out the holes in the cleats with a 1/4" bit. I believe I did this front and back, but only the back hole needed to be (or even could be) countersunk to accomodate the 1/4" panhead screws. I believe my panheads were also slightly domed. Most are.When countersinking, remove only a little material at a time and then check if the whole is deep enough by putting the screw in.Good luck,Ron MehringerHydro-Therapy

 

[Rick Macdonald]

Ah, thanks Ron!

Glad to hear all that. I enlarged the hole first to 7/32 and then 15/64 and still the screw can't go through with my fingers turning. I figured I'd have to go to 1/4". I can do this enlargement in the above increments with the drill bit in my bare hands.Yes, I'll be very careful with the countersink enlargement.I bought extra screws so I think I'll try flattening the top by putting it in my drill and pressing it flat against a file. For $0.30, I figure it's worth a try for the forward screws to reduce the amount of countsink. But I'll do the countersink diameter enlargement first, because it may be that it's deep enough without flattening the screw heads anyway. I was looking for flat heads, but a fellow in the store said SS panheads are always domed.My old jib sheets were too short and 1/2" to boot. Just this afternoon I bought 60ft of 7/16 since I kinda like the thicker feel. Hopefully there isn't a drawback of the heavier line (weight on the clew in light winds?). An old freyed 1/2" almost works in the cleat, so the 7/16" should still be OK after it gets old and a bit fuzzy.Thanks Ron, Rick, Tim and everyone for all the help. Tomorrow evening I'm off to the lake (90 minute drive) to install the cleats and hopefully enjoy a long weekend of good sailing!