How do you attach turning blocks to the mast base to run reefing lines aft? The holes in the base are pretty small. 5/16" I think. Thanks, Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
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1/4" pin should carry the load
ON my 260, I pigtailed off another shackle and it has been working fine for 3 or 4 years. You could also fasten an eye strap close to the base at the bottom of the mast extrusion and work off that. I also installed a deck organizer on top of the existing starboard organizer and have my single reefing line on a clutch, right next to the main halyard.
ON my 260, I pigtailed off another shackle and it has been working fine for 3 or 4 years. You could also fasten an eye strap close to the base at the bottom of the mast extrusion and work off that. I also installed a deck organizer on top of the existing starboard organizer and have my single reefing line on a clutch, right next to the main halyard.
What year Jeff
is your 260 for I noticed you have extra jammers. On our 260 on the starboard side there is only "one" for the main halyard!!
is your 260 for I noticed you have extra jammers. On our 260 on the starboard side there is only "one" for the main halyard!!
its a 98 260
I took off the jam cleat and was able to squeeze 2 double clutches to starboard and move the single to the other side. I've done this to one other 98 and a 01 model. Jeff Peltier
I took off the jam cleat and was able to squeeze 2 double clutches to starboard and move the single to the other side. I've done this to one other 98 and a 01 model. Jeff Peltier
1/4" Pin?
Jeff - Do you mean using a shackle with a 1/4" diameter pin and installing it such that the pin goes thru a mastplate hole vertically, with the shackle body being oriented horizontally? I like the way you installed a second pair of line clutches on the starboard side. Nice alternative to routing the reffing and vang lines to port. I've got to look at my 26 and see if that would work. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
Jeff - Do you mean using a shackle with a 1/4" diameter pin and installing it such that the pin goes thru a mastplate hole vertically, with the shackle body being oriented horizontally? I like the way you installed a second pair of line clutches on the starboard side. Nice alternative to routing the reffing and vang lines to port. I've got to look at my 26 and see if that would work. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
Jib sheets in clutch
I see you have your jib sheet in a clutch as well. How was it rigged originally? I like the idea of the Spinlocks that release and grab with upwards and downwards flicks of the sheets. I suppose the clutches would be half way there in that you can at least harden them without moving up to the cabin wall itself.
I see you have your jib sheet in a clutch as well. How was it rigged originally? I like the idea of the Spinlocks that release and grab with upwards and downwards flicks of the sheets. I suppose the clutches would be half way there in that you can at least harden them without moving up to the cabin wall itself.
Clutches work well for me.
Of course the boat came with the usual jam cleats that everybody hates. I have seen on this forum, people using powercleats and I think they would work fine, although at or above the upper end of their working load on windy days. Jeff Peltier
Of course the boat came with the usual jam cleats that everybody hates. I have seen on this forum, people using powercleats and I think they would work fine, although at or above the upper end of their working load on windy days. Jeff Peltier
My 23.5 has horn cleats
My 95H23.5 has two clutches for the main and jib halyards. The jib sheets are left with the winches and regular horn cleats on each side. (I assume this is very common?) I have two wraps on the winch with the bitter end of the jib sheet given a simple full wrap around the cleat (no figure-8s). This holds, but is a lot of hand and arm movement and takes time. The Spinlock PX PowerCleats sure seem an attractive solution to me, one that I could work from the aft end of the cockpit without releasing or locking the tiller. The pictures on the Spinlock website look different from the picture posted here recently. Perhaps the new design wouldn't need the risers that people found necessary in the past. Do you think 440 lbs is not strong enough? When it's that windy (not that I know how much wind that translates to) I'm probably sailing on reefed main alone anyway.
My 95H23.5 has two clutches for the main and jib halyards. The jib sheets are left with the winches and regular horn cleats on each side. (I assume this is very common?) I have two wraps on the winch with the bitter end of the jib sheet given a simple full wrap around the cleat (no figure-8s). This holds, but is a lot of hand and arm movement and takes time. The Spinlock PX PowerCleats sure seem an attractive solution to me, one that I could work from the aft end of the cockpit without releasing or locking the tiller. The pictures on the Spinlock website look different from the picture posted here recently. Perhaps the new design wouldn't need the risers that people found necessary in the past. Do you think 440 lbs is not strong enough? When it's that windy (not that I know how much wind that translates to) I'm probably sailing on reefed main alone anyway.
23.5 load
The picture in this forum was of clutches and not power cleats. I believe when we are sailing our 260 aggressively in higher winds, we are probably getting loads up to 500#. I know there are 26's and 260's on this forum, however, that use the power cleats and have not reported problems. Since you have a 23.5 with a smaller head sail, I think you would be fine. Using a cleat after the winch, unfortunately doesn't allow the winch to be used for something else. Jeff Peltier
The picture in this forum was of clutches and not power cleats. I believe when we are sailing our 260 aggressively in higher winds, we are probably getting loads up to 500#. I know there are 26's and 260's on this forum, however, that use the power cleats and have not reported problems. Since you have a 23.5 with a smaller head sail, I think you would be fine. Using a cleat after the winch, unfortunately doesn't allow the winch to be used for something else. Jeff Peltier
There was another photo
The photo I refered to was from a thread titled "240 jib cleats again". I put the link below. After a closer look at the photo (by brightening it in an image editor) it may be the same model as on the Spinlock site, but with a riser and a wedge underneath.
The photo I refered to was from a thread titled "240 jib cleats again". I put the link below. After a closer look at the photo (by brightening it in an image editor) it may be the same model as on the Spinlock site, but with a riser and a wedge underneath.
PX Powercleats
I just replaced the horn cleats use for the jib sheets on my 26 with Spinlock PX Powercleats. What a great addition. I can now trim the jib from anywhere in the cockpit. I too was concerned about not being able to use the winch, but you can get away w/o winches on the jib sheets 98% of the time anyway. I didn't use any risers and have had no problem setting and releasing the Powercleats. Amazingly, the horn cleats have the same bolt spacing as the Powercleats. However, the head on the panhead screws that fit the existing tapped hole (1/4" I think) is too large for the cleat. The rear section of the cleat slides out and it is secured first, then the front is slipped on and screwed down. The head of the large screw prevents the two pieces from being joined. I used a drill press to countersink a larger whole in the plastic base of the rear piece. You could probably do it with a drill if you were VERY CAREFULL. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
I just replaced the horn cleats use for the jib sheets on my 26 with Spinlock PX Powercleats. What a great addition. I can now trim the jib from anywhere in the cockpit. I too was concerned about not being able to use the winch, but you can get away w/o winches on the jib sheets 98% of the time anyway. I didn't use any risers and have had no problem setting and releasing the Powercleats. Amazingly, the horn cleats have the same bolt spacing as the Powercleats. However, the head on the panhead screws that fit the existing tapped hole (1/4" I think) is too large for the cleat. The rear section of the cleat slides out and it is secured first, then the front is slipped on and screwed down. The head of the large screw prevents the two pieces from being joined. I used a drill press to countersink a larger whole in the plastic base of the rear piece. You could probably do it with a drill if you were VERY CAREFULL. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
Well Said Ron
I have had them on my 23.5 for about three years and love them. I can work the jib sheets from the stern rail seats easily.
I have had them on my 23.5 for about three years and love them. I can work the jib sheets from the stern rail seats easily.
OK, I'm convinced!
Ron - I assume you have the PX0812/1 model as shown in the link I put below? Can you say a bit more about the installation? Did the horn cleats come off easily? Did you need to use any sealant or adhesive? The deck of your 97H26 looks identical to my 95H23.5, so hopefully I'll have the same success as you.
Ron - I assume you have the PX0812/1 model as shown in the link I put below? Can you say a bit more about the installation? Did the horn cleats come off easily? Did you need to use any sealant or adhesive? The deck of your 97H26 looks identical to my 95H23.5, so hopefully I'll have the same success as you.
PX0812
Rick, yes I did use the PX0812 cleats. Actually I used the PX0812/2 which is two of the single cleats packaged together. There's only a small plastic piece underneath holding them together and it pops right out with no effort. The screws for the horn cleats came out easily. They are machine screws and they are attached to an embedded metal backing plate that has holes tapped in it. I bedded the Powercleat with silicone, mostly because I didn't have any 4200 handy. Turns out that may have been a good choice since Spinlock's web site says not to use 4200 with some of their plastic products (their plastic sided XAS rope clutches in particular). Now back to the screws. The ones that came off the horn cleats were longer than needed. I keep an assorted box of stainless fasteners on board so I grabbed a shorter pan head screw. I'm pretty sure these are 1/4-20. As mentioned in my previous post, the 1/4" screw head wont recess fully in the back hole of the Powercleat, preventing the two sections from mating. I used a drill press to countersink a larger hole in that rear section. The front hole needs no modification. Hope that helps. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
Rick, yes I did use the PX0812 cleats. Actually I used the PX0812/2 which is two of the single cleats packaged together. There's only a small plastic piece underneath holding them together and it pops right out with no effort. The screws for the horn cleats came out easily. They are machine screws and they are attached to an embedded metal backing plate that has holes tapped in it. I bedded the Powercleat with silicone, mostly because I didn't have any 4200 handy. Turns out that may have been a good choice since Spinlock's web site says not to use 4200 with some of their plastic products (their plastic sided XAS rope clutches in particular). Now back to the screws. The ones that came off the horn cleats were longer than needed. I keep an assorted box of stainless fasteners on board so I grabbed a shorter pan head screw. I'm pretty sure these are 1/4-20. As mentioned in my previous post, the 1/4" screw head wont recess fully in the back hole of the Powercleat, preventing the two sections from mating. I used a drill press to countersink a larger hole in that rear section. The front hole needs no modification. Hope that helps. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
Cam cleats for Jib sheets
Ron: I really liked the look of your new Powercleats for the jib sheets. I am anxious to hear how it works. This spring, I followed Harvey Small's advice & installed cam cleats on the cabin wall close to the top of the hatch (he has posted pictures on this site). It was a bit tricky putting an anchor plate behind them, but I managed to get it all installed & have been extremely happy with the result. It allows us to use the winch in strong winds, & to make regular adjustments from the windward side of the boat. I'll try to post a photo. Rick
Ron: I really liked the look of your new Powercleats for the jib sheets. I am anxious to hear how it works. This spring, I followed Harvey Small's advice & installed cam cleats on the cabin wall close to the top of the hatch (he has posted pictures on this site). It was a bit tricky putting an anchor plate behind them, but I managed to get it all installed & have been extremely happy with the result. It allows us to use the winch in strong winds, & to make regular adjustments from the windward side of the boat. I'll try to post a photo. Rick
Attachments
They are 1/4 X 20
I used a 1/2 countersink and a cordless drill to hake the screws fit, just do a little at a time. I also raised mine up on a peice of teak. Makes it a little easier to slap the lines down to lock them.
I used a 1/2 countersink and a cordless drill to hake the screws fit, just do a little at a time. I also raised mine up on a peice of teak. Makes it a little easier to slap the lines down to lock them.
Cam cleats
My '95 came with the cam cleats installed as in Rick's photo. I had thought they were OEM, as the PO didn't seem the type to add much. Standard or not, they do work well. The only problem I have encountered (and that is singlehanding)is getting the sheet in the cleat when there is a lot of tension on it. Not a problem though for someone who is just doing the sheeting of the jib, as they are at a good angle. Adding an inch spacer beneath them would probably fix that slight inconvienence (emphasis on slight). There was a good article on Sailnet recently about running lines aft from the mast. It's something I would like to do myself, to have the reefing line and vang run to the cockpit. Fair winds, John
My '95 came with the cam cleats installed as in Rick's photo. I had thought they were OEM, as the PO didn't seem the type to add much. Standard or not, they do work well. The only problem I have encountered (and that is singlehanding)is getting the sheet in the cleat when there is a lot of tension on it. Not a problem though for someone who is just doing the sheeting of the jib, as they are at a good angle. Adding an inch spacer beneath them would probably fix that slight inconvienence (emphasis on slight). There was a good article on Sailnet recently about running lines aft from the mast. It's something I would like to do myself, to have the reefing line and vang run to the cockpit. Fair winds, John
Cam cleats..
Rick W., the cam cleat idea would work well as an addition to the Powercleats. The Powercleats could be used when hand tensioning lines and then if the wind picks up, one could switch to the winches and cam cleats. Ron Mehringer s/v Hdyro-Therapy
Rick W., the cam cleat idea would work well as an addition to the Powercleats. The Powercleats could be used when hand tensioning lines and then if the wind picks up, one could switch to the winches and cam cleats. Ron Mehringer s/v Hdyro-Therapy
US Spars has the block you need.
Hi Ron again, Go to the link below and look at the Hunter list and the parts for the 26. The mast is Z230 and the part you need is number 261. This is the turning block I have been using for years. Works great. Bob Gravenstine "Gravyboat"
Hi Ron again, Go to the link below and look at the Hunter list and the parts for the 26. The mast is Z230 and the part you need is number 261. This is the turning block I have been using for years. Works great. Bob Gravenstine "Gravyboat"
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