I've just acquired a 150% headsail for my H23, but don't have tracks for the blocks. The original blocks are too far forward for this sail. Can I use snap shackles attached to the base of the lifeline stantions that are located closest to the winches? Thanks for the help Ernie s/v Seas the Moment
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Mike Webster
Probably not a good idea.
First of all, the stantion bases on most Hunters are not thru-bolted, but threaded into an aluminum plate that is inbedded in the fiberglass. With this method of attachment, you run the risk of stripping out the bolts due to the upward load from the 150. Second, you will end up breaking the welds on the stantion base supports. The stantions are not designed for this type of loading and will ultimately fail, through one or both of the methods above. If you just want to play with the 150, you can thru-bolt a padeye on each side of the deck and attach blocks to these points. However, tracks are used so you can adjust the lead angle of the jib sheet depending on wind conditions. You probably won't be happy with a single point jib sheet lead. I would suggest going the whole route and installing short tracks on each side of the boat, thru-bolted with backing plates. Good luck!
First of all, the stantion bases on most Hunters are not thru-bolted, but threaded into an aluminum plate that is inbedded in the fiberglass. With this method of attachment, you run the risk of stripping out the bolts due to the upward load from the 150. Second, you will end up breaking the welds on the stantion base supports. The stantions are not designed for this type of loading and will ultimately fail, through one or both of the methods above. If you just want to play with the 150, you can thru-bolt a padeye on each side of the deck and attach blocks to these points. However, tracks are used so you can adjust the lead angle of the jib sheet depending on wind conditions. You probably won't be happy with a single point jib sheet lead. I would suggest going the whole route and installing short tracks on each side of the boat, thru-bolted with backing plates. Good luck!
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Greg Stebbins
Agree with Mike
Yea, stay away from the stantions. I installed tracks for my 150. I used 2 18 inch long sections of stright track mounted on the deck directly in front of the winches. I got this configuration from a Henderson 30 on my dock. It works very well. I believe it is the easiest track install for the 150. Greg
Yea, stay away from the stantions. I installed tracks for my 150. I used 2 18 inch long sections of stright track mounted on the deck directly in front of the winches. I got this configuration from a Henderson 30 on my dock. It works very well. I believe it is the easiest track install for the 150. Greg
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Crazy Dave Condon
genoa tracks
Ernie is correct and I would strongly suggest genoa tracks. I found that 2-3 footers were good. When drilling through the deck into the cabin, do make sure you liberally caulk which can be cleaned up. Make sure the bolts are not that long as to protrude into the cabin as they do hurt when you hit your head on it. Did it many a time. Suggest washers of course and I do not know the specific name of the nut but as a safety once bolted down, put the nuts tthat are rounded on too as a precaution. Crazy Dave Condon
Ernie is correct and I would strongly suggest genoa tracks. I found that 2-3 footers were good. When drilling through the deck into the cabin, do make sure you liberally caulk which can be cleaned up. Make sure the bolts are not that long as to protrude into the cabin as they do hurt when you hit your head on it. Did it many a time. Suggest washers of course and I do not know the specific name of the nut but as a safety once bolted down, put the nuts tthat are rounded on too as a precaution. Crazy Dave Condon
Installing genoa track
I did this a few months ago on my H23, using Schaefer 1-1/4" T-track . Everything Crazy Dave said is true. The nuts he was referring to are called acorn nuts. Here are more suggestions: The mounting holes for my track are spaced every 4 inches and the deck is cored with wood. After the agony of having to replace a rotted chainplate bulkhead, I now see every hole in the deck as a potential water leak and source of rot. I drilled the track mounting holes oversize, plugged them at the bottom with a dab of caulk and then filled from the top with epoxy. After the epoxy cured, I drilled out the holes to the proper size for the bolts. If the holes leak in the future, water cannot get to the wood core. Yes, it's a pain in the butt but it's still preferable to trying to fix a rotted deck. The epoxy also soaks into the wood and stiffens the area around each hole, so I didn't install a backing plate underneath. The plastic track-end caps do not have to be through-bolted, as they carry no load. Self-tapping screws are OK. This also makes it easier to replace the caps in the future, as they do get brittle and break after a while in the sun. However, do pre-drill the deck all the way through and seal with epoxy as for the other holes. When caulking the track, mask the deck and the ENTIRE surface of the track, except for the places where you do want caulk, i.e., the underside of the base and the countersunk areas in the track for the bolt heads. Then bolt the track down. Once the caulk cures, cleanup is a simple matter of peeling off the tape. You do not want cured caulk anywhere on the rail of the track, especially the underside where it is impossible to reach once the track is bolted down. If the track is obstructed in any way, the slide for the block won't move easily. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
I did this a few months ago on my H23, using Schaefer 1-1/4" T-track . Everything Crazy Dave said is true. The nuts he was referring to are called acorn nuts. Here are more suggestions: The mounting holes for my track are spaced every 4 inches and the deck is cored with wood. After the agony of having to replace a rotted chainplate bulkhead, I now see every hole in the deck as a potential water leak and source of rot. I drilled the track mounting holes oversize, plugged them at the bottom with a dab of caulk and then filled from the top with epoxy. After the epoxy cured, I drilled out the holes to the proper size for the bolts. If the holes leak in the future, water cannot get to the wood core. Yes, it's a pain in the butt but it's still preferable to trying to fix a rotted deck. The epoxy also soaks into the wood and stiffens the area around each hole, so I didn't install a backing plate underneath. The plastic track-end caps do not have to be through-bolted, as they carry no load. Self-tapping screws are OK. This also makes it easier to replace the caps in the future, as they do get brittle and break after a while in the sun. However, do pre-drill the deck all the way through and seal with epoxy as for the other holes. When caulking the track, mask the deck and the ENTIRE surface of the track, except for the places where you do want caulk, i.e., the underside of the base and the countersunk areas in the track for the bolt heads. Then bolt the track down. Once the caulk cures, cleanup is a simple matter of peeling off the tape. You do not want cured caulk anywhere on the rail of the track, especially the underside where it is impossible to reach once the track is bolted down. If the track is obstructed in any way, the slide for the block won't move easily. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Ernie
Genoa track
Thanks for all the information and suggestions. I was sort of hopeing to get by quick and dirty, but after reading these comments, have decided to do it right the first time around. Again, thanks all
Thanks for all the information and suggestions. I was sort of hopeing to get by quick and dirty, but after reading these comments, have decided to do it right the first time around. Again, thanks all
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