Blister repair possible?

Sep 11, 2013
244
Catalina 25 6106 Lake Erie Metro Park
I'm looking at a 73 Pearson 26 with blister damage...pix attached. Owner had is soda blasted. Blisters are about 1/8" diameter. Is this repairable? Owner claims so, but....
The rest of the boat looks pretty good. Newer (Two seasons) sails, outboard runs. I checked as best I could for water intrusion and couldn't see any. Rudder stem has about 1/4" to 3/8" play. Too much? Owner is distressed, must move the boat...
 

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Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
It does not look like blisters to me. Blisters are usually larger, deeper and just a raised place in the gelcoat right after you pull the boat. They disappear after being out of the water for a few weeks. The only way to tell is to explore one by cutting into it. True blisters will be below the gelcoat, approximately 1-2" long and more random than what I'm seeing in the pix. True blisters are repairable BTW, chip off the gelcoat, grind down to solid fiberglass and patch with fiberglass putty.
 
Jan 18, 2016
782
Catalina 387 Dana Point
Soft gel that the sodablast removed? If you can't 'pop' one and get a horrific vinegar smelling liquid to drain, it's not osmotic blister. If they're just dimples from the soda blast: fill and fair, apply epoxy barrier, and then bottom paint.
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
That looks the the bottom of @Squidd 's boat. IIFC it was YEARS of old paint that he had to take off. Nasty. Maybe he'll jump in.
 

Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
8,178
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
Blisters can appear in all shapes and sizes.... from pimples to dime and quarter to plate sized monsters.
You need to have a professional person look at it.... a surveyor perhaps. Owner is right... it is repairable.... everything is repairable... what you want to know is HOW MUCH WILL IT COST?


 
Jun 21, 2004
2,829
Beneteau 343 Slidell, LA
You can fix it with a major amount of personal effort or major financial cost if you pay for a blister job. AND, the unpredictable aspect is that the blistering may reoccur within a couple years if the boat stays in the water continuously. I have been through this scenario with a 1988 Hunter an learned an expensive lesson the hard way. I would look for another boat. One last comment about blister repairs, try to get a yard to give you a written warranty for their blister repairs; not going to happen.
 
Sep 11, 2013
244
Catalina 25 6106 Lake Erie Metro Park
Thanx for all the advice!
Owner said the boat had beacoup layers of bottom paint so he had it soda blasted and this is the result. I'm inclined to just fair, sand and barrier coat + bottom paint. Time I'll have plenty of. These are more like pin holes that are about 1/8" diameter and about 1/8" deep.
Any concerns that the boat has sat outside like this for several years? Rain water, condensation, etc., on the unprotected bottom be a problem?
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,553
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
MaryEllaRose: Did you look over the thread that Squidd posted above? I think you have some of the same issues. I have bought and sold a lot of old boats over the years and I've seen thick bottom paint jobs that hide a lot of hull issues. I'd get all of that old bottom paint OFF before I fair and barrier coat. The good news is that there is an easy way to get old ablative bottom paint off an old boat.

Look at this thread from a few years back

http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/removing-old-ablative-paint.143512/#post-953222

It contains a recipe for homemade peel away. You make this paste, roll it on the bottom, let it sit for a few hours and then pressure wash away the bottom paint. Repeat on the stubborn spots. Sand/grind any gouges, dings or blisters, fair with thickened epoxy, sand again, two coats of barrier coat and a new bottom paint job and you are done. Two long weekends of work and your boat will be looking new and you will know your hull is sound because you actually got to put your eyeball on the actual hull and not 20 layers of bottom paint.
 
Sep 11, 2013
244
Catalina 25 6106 Lake Erie Metro Park
All of the old bottom paint was soda blasted away. The pin holes appeared after the soda blasting...
 
Jun 21, 2004
2,829
Beneteau 343 Slidell, LA
The fact that it has been on the hard for a few years is a good thing. After removing all of the bottom paint to the gel coat and opening the blisters, you really should take several moisture meter readings on several location outside the hull. ( it is the best method, though not perfect, to determine moisture content in the hull). The moisture level needs to be 10% or less. If above 10% you will have to scrub it with a detergent (simple green), put a plastic tent around the hull, and place a dehumidifier & heater inside the tent to drive out the moisture in the hull. If the moisture content is "stuck" and not decreasing, time to wash the hull again and retent until it drops below 10%. This process may have to be repeated several times to get the moisture level down. If you fill, fair, & barrier coat a wet hull, you are setting yourself up for failure. The blisters will return in short order. This is not a "weekend" project. In some cases it takes months just to dry the hull. Sad thing about this is even after going through all of this process, there is no guarantee that the blisters will not reoccur, unless you store the boat out of the water. Please do some serious research into causes, repair methods, limited successes and common failures of dealing with blisters before buying this boat. The better yards are peeling the gelcoat, placing the boat in a climate controlled building, and placing heated vacuum pads on the boat to dry the hull and to suck out the acid content where blistered & to drive the reaction to cure unpolymerzed resin. They were charging $30/foot 15 years ago. And, still no warranty.
 
Sep 8, 2014
2,551
Catalina 22 Swing Keel San Diego
Face Palm.... it amazes me how much misinformation there is out there about osmotic blistering and the misconceptions people still have. It also amazes me that people still expect any kind of 'warranty' when professionally repaired... No need to really get into that, lets just keep it simple.
First... YES, those are blisters. As Joe pointed out, they come in all sizes and these just happen to be small ones.
These are perfect example of blisters that develop just under the gelcoat layer but not deep in the laminate. Without getting into a deep discussion about isophthalic acid - neopentyl glycol (NPG) based gelcoats (which is the modern standard), just understand that not all gelcoats were created equally... some are far more prone to osmosis resulting in the small, pox type blisters.
Also, not all blisters (this kind is the prime example) form any copious amount of that styrene smelling puss. That is more common and expected in larger blisters (dime size and above) that fester deeper in the layers of laminate.

The GOOD news (as I see it);
- The P.O. already had the hull soda blasted (huge time saver for you).
- The hull has been on the hard for awhile (exactly how long and in what weather conditions?) And how long has it been since the soda blasting?
- Since much of the hard work is done, and you keep the boat on the hard to finish the work, this is a pretty good opportunity to finish it up without too much fuss. I would have some moisture readings done if you can, that will be extra peace of mind. If it had been sitting in the AZ desert for at least 3 months since the soda blasting, you could be fairly certain it was bone dry. Beyond that, I'd give the hull a good sanding with 60 grit on a 6 inch orbital. No need to take off all the old gelcoat or go crazy... Just knock down any remaining junky spots or residual paint, reduce the surface of that old gelcoat to make those pox a little more shallow. Inspect the hull really well for evidence of any other blisters that may be deeper into the laminate. Take this chance to service or replace any thur-hulls (go with Marelon). None of this is a crazy amount of work unless you have keel issues to deal with, like dropping it and rebedding... Take your moisture readings at this point. If everything is hunky dory, fill and fair the pox with Interlux Water-Tite 1:1 epoxy filler. Barrier Coat with Interlux Interprotect 2000, Minimum 2 gallons on that size hull.
Whatever you decide.... You can plausibly let the hull sit until spring and address numerous other chores before worrying about the bottom. The more drying time the better.
 
Jun 29, 2010
1,287
Beneteau First 235 Lake Minnetonka, MN
Is this boat really worth you going through all the work necessary in order to bring it up to snuff? I would say move on to the next one.
 

Gunni

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Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
Agree, those are blisters, and while extensive they do not appear to compromise the laminate. One small difference, you don't start with filler, you start with barrier coat epoxy primer (interlux interprotect ) on a prepped hull, then do the solid filler (no micro-bubble stuff). That will be the big effort because proper filler here will make for tough sanding so you need the right tool. Then finish with more barrier coat epoxy primer (interprotect HS). Study the no-sand method. Hot-coating your way to the anti-fouling.
 
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Oct 26, 2008
6,249
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Your hull looks very similar to my hull after it was sandblasted. Here's the deal with my experience. The photographs with red bottom paint are the way my bottom looked in 2004 when we bought the boat. We moved the boat to a freshwater lake and never did anything with the bottom for 11 years because the marina was not equipped to either remove or apply bottom paint. So we lived with a shabby looking bottom, enjoyed sailing, never had any problem with performance and never knew anything about any problems for 11 years.
The we moved our boat to a salt water marina and I wanted to do something to make the bottom nice and smooth, and I figured that anti-fouling would be important. We have our boat at a Marina that has an excellent reputation and they typically use Interlux products, so I was happy with whatever they recommend. We sand-blasted in the fall after removing the boat from the water. The photographs show the results. It looked pretty much the same as yours. Thousands of small divots just breaking through the gel coat were observed. All of the holes are no more than 1/8" to 1/4" in diameter and also very shallow. I saw the hull soon after sandblasting and there was no fluid leaking out. The hull was bone dry as far as I could tell. There weren't any larger sized blisters with oozing fluid weeping from the fiberglass underneath the gel coat as has been described for actual "blisters".
We left it that way until the spring when I authorized the yard to apply thickened epoxy to fair the entire hull. Next, we had 3 barrier coats applied and an ablative bottom paint applied. If I remember correctly, the entire process from sandblasting to bottom paint was about $3,900 for my 27' boat. I think the step to repair the bottom was the most expensive at about $1,800.
With all of the time and travel involved, I was not going to do this work, particularly because the process requires full time involvement. I was perfectly happy to trust this work to the marina, since I wasn't going to devote a week for a DIY job. I can't tell you or show you how this worked out, since the boat was placed in the water before I could arrive to see the result and she is still in the water. I'm a little anxious to see the results in a few weeks.
Just a word about old boats. If you are going to be worried about every imperfection, then you will have to stay away from old boats. They come with all kinds of warts and scars. If you are going to purchase an old boat, be prepared to settle for all kinds of conditions, and also spend money to fix or upgrade as you desire. In the end, most of the folks in here will tell you to run, don't walk, away from all sorts of problem, like blisters, soft decks, moldy sails, troubled engines, otherwise you are wasting your money. Well, that may be true, but if I was worried about wasting money, I would never have been sailing for the past 12 years and enjoying every minute of it, on a boat that is probably worthless because it had a troubled bottom, soft decks, various water leaks and plumbing issues, and I can go on and on. I continue to throw money out the window because that is what you do when you want to own an old boat. If being economical is important to you, then be prepared for a lot of DIY. If you want to offload some of the work that can better be performed by an outside party, then be prepared to do some research and still take some chances with the money you spend. That's my story and I'm sticking to it! :cool:
 

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Oct 26, 2008
6,249
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Yes, what Gunni said about prepping the hull for the filler is important and the reason why that process cost significant money.
 
Jun 21, 2004
2,829
Beneteau 343 Slidell, LA
Misconceptions, not.
My only reason for mentioning that yards will not guarantee a blister job is because they have seen repeated failures and you should expect the same. It will fail again and you will have to go thru the same ordeal again. If you keep the boat on a trailer or in slings the repair should be fine; however, if you keep it in water it will blister again.
A blistered hull can become compromised if it isn't dealt with over a period of time. It's something that you have to deal with sooner or later that means time + money and time away from the intent of ownership----sailing. When you decide to sell and blisters are present, at least half of prospective buyers are not going to consider the boat ( good boats aren't the easiest things to sell from the get go) and the other half are going to expect a substantial discount.
So the question is, why subject yourself to the expense and hassle of buying this blistered boat? If you think that you are saving money, think again. I am not being an arm chair quarterback here; I have been thru this ordeal once and I sure as hell won't go thru it again. One last word of caution, be wary of surveyors, brokers, owners, and yards that tell you this problem can be "fixed". They all have a vested interest in the boat being sold and then you are stuck with the problem. Also, no one can "look" at a hull and determine that it is dry, even if there are no weeping blisters. The only method of determine if it is dry is using a good moisture meter. Again, don't fall in love with this boat; find another one and enjoy it!
 
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Sep 11, 2013
244
Catalina 25 6106 Lake Erie Metro Park
The boat has been on the hard since 2011. We're in southeast Michigan and it's been outside all that time. The rest of the boat looks nice. No rot other than the crib soared. Transom was professionally rebuilt. Owner is distressed. Must move it. He dropped the price to 1500. Has motor newer sails
 
May 8, 2011
189
ODay 25 Cambridge
Took 40 years for the blisters to get this bad. In another 40 years you may have a problem that needs attention.
 
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