Bleeding procedure for Yanmar Diesel

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M

Mitch

Can someone outline the procedure for bleeding air from the injectors of a Yanmar 3GM30F. I have to replace the fuel line, after the filter on the engine. It's about 8 inches long. How do I bleed the air that will be from there to the injectors? Thanks for the help.
 
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Paul Akers

Try this link

Lots of help here. http://www.yanmarhelp.com/s_bleed.htm
 
B

Bob

Did it yesterday

Mitch Just did the bleading thing yesterday and you most likely not have to blead after the injector pump. In order to speed the process and not get tired manually operation the lift pump so I install a good quality pump ball in the fuel line prior to both filters. My way is to pump the ball and blead the secondary filter then do the same to the filter on the engine using the larger blead screw. After that loosen the blead screw on the fuel line just as it enters the injector pump and insuring that all the air is out of the line to that point the engine should start. Just in case, close the engine water input port and open it asap when the engine starts. If the engine stalls it probably means that some where in the line usually prior to the injection pump you have an air pocket, so just repeat the process. Oh yes, don't forget to close the fuel shutoff valve prior to changing the hose.
 
Dec 9, 2003
55
Hunter 34 Annapolis
Did it twice yesterday

Bob's description is good. I have the pump ball installed prioir to the racor on my line but mechanics sure don't like them. I have some dirty fuel and had to change filters and bleed twice yesterday. The second time I changed only the racor (which is the primary) and not the filter on the engine (which is the secondary). I did not have bleed past the secondary filter when I replaced only the racor. Tom
 
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Pitman

Be Careful

Be careful when using a fuel line pump ball as you can over pressure the system and blow out the rubber diaphragm in the fuel lift pump. If you keep the bleed screw open and pump slowly having a line ball pump sure does speed up things.
 
B

Bill O'Donovan

Be careful II

Previous posts two years ago talked of the pump ball deteroriating, which sent shards of rubber into the engine and chaos. Maybe the trick is to replace the bulb annually. Or take up golf.
 
A

Alan

Just to clear up...

...a small point. Bleeding the fuel line all the way to the injection pump is what you need to do if you are replacing the supply line to the pump. Your question asked about bleeding the injectors and that is something that you cannot do with the tickle pump or the any other in line pump before the injection pump. Once air enters the injection lines to the injectors, the only way to bleed them is with the injection pump itself. This means cranking the engine either by hand or with the starter.
 
Dec 2, 2003
4,245
- - Seabeck WA
When bleeding,

it seems to help if you crack the fuel lines open at the injectors as you crank the engine. When you see fuel at the injectors, tighten the nuts. For some reason, the engine seems to fire up quicker. It's not logical but it SEEMS to help. Be sure to have the compression releases open to help out your starter. But then again, once you have fuel at the HP pump bleed screw you're nearly done anyway. It's probably not worth the effort the pick up the wrench. Never mind. :) (hey, it's early)
 
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