Binacle Paint

rardiH36 · Jun 13, 2010

Jorge:

What part are you referring as the binacle?

Attached is a pic of my steering station area after I improved following the boat purchase. The pedestal itself is still mostly the original the factory finish. I simply used a small paint brush to touch up the scratches/scrapes with a good quality white rustoleum-type enamel. Or you could go with a polyurethane marine enamel. Same treatment given to the flat surface through which the engine controls section and compass housing rest. I recall that the metal is aluminum. On my boat the original paint on this section was flaking off in chunks and the surface underneath was oxidized. So I sanded smooth, primed with a primer suitable for aluminum and painted with the enamel. Being a flat surface, brush marks will disappear if you paint when the surface is cool. The pvc plastic parts were brush painted with rustoleum's "hammered" look metalic paint that I've become a fan of. The product does not leave brush marks. (I had these parts off the boat when I painted them because of other work to the steering. Also I modified the housing through which the engine throttle/gear levers go to make it much stronger since I had read that this original Yacht Specialities pedestal part can crack suddenly leaving the helmsman unable to change gear or throttle.)

One good thing about painting the pedestal parts is that except for when actually sailing, the sunbrella wheel cover protects everything from the sun and weather. The paint job will stay looking new for a long time. Mine still is three years later.

rardiH36 · Jun 13, 2010

Re: Pedestal, cedar panels, boat

Jorge:

The photos are posted just fine. Congrats -- You are now a Master Poster!

Re the helm: Pretty cool the way the instruments are mounted. Totally up to you how extensive you wish to go with the cosmetic re-do. From the photo, the top section around the instruments looks cosmetically very good with the finish in sound condition. If that's the case, but you have scratches, then give consideration to cleaning really well then just touching up those spots. White touch-up on white is something no one will ever notice unless really looking. Same with the pedestal tube. As for the base, certainly looks like you need to sand, prime and then paint. (However, I have in the past seen a post where the pedestal base has deteriorated to the point of being unsound. You might want to poke around to verify the condition of yours.)

I often am trying to decide whether to do the absolute best for a cosmetic restore; or will a 95% result be ok for 25% of the labor time? It's a boat ... and mine's an old one. The 95% option has restored my boat's overall finish to a much better look. Not perfect, but its been a fine outcome for me.

sailgirl · Jun 13, 2010

Hi - jorgefife. My name is sailgirl and I have 1980 33'. Have you worked on the floor below? I'm working on my boat too and I need to find somewhere I can get some flooring. I live a dead zone for getting anything for my boat. I have to drive 2 or 3 hrs or have stuff shipped(that's a pain I won't talk about). At least you're in a good location for parts and supplies.

rardiH36 · Jun 14, 2010

jorgefife said:
Please let me know about the non-skid, what do you suggest
Please feel free to come in on this one: can one buy a pint with the non-ski already in it?
Top of deck was repaired, and it lost the non-skid all along one side
Jorge

Jorge:

Suggest that you do a search of the forums for non-skid re-do. Its been covered a lot. And quite a few alternatives depending on situation and preference. Most manufactures have special non-skid one-part polyurethane products. One personal preference note is that the color of non-skid on new boats is generally a very subtle grey with just a hint of tan to prevent it from looking blue-ish. The off-the-shelf anti-skid products are quite a bit darker. Depending on how particular you are, an alternative is to buy white (or off-white) and then add just a few drops-at-a-time of black and brown colors until you get the hue that you want.

The non skid areas of my boat needed refinishing mainly from an appearance standpoint. The original non-skid surface relief was still in great shape and I also wanted to protect it from degradation which was bound to start ocurring at some point. Wanting many-many year durability, I painted over with a two-part polyurethane (Interlux Perfection) with lots of flattening agent mixed in to dull the gloss, and added Interlux's non-skid powder. The result was very good. Pretty much the same outcome as my neighbor's 2005 Catalina 350. Adding non skid powder is no biggie and the cost is for the stuff is reasonable.

But as above you should review the various alternatives and choose what you think will work best for you. If I had to do it again, I might have explored more about using thickened gelcoat. I have heard that there is a type of gelcoat that can cure correctly in the presense of open air. Application however would be tricky since working time of gelcoat is very short.

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