Our Macgregor 26S is taking on about an inch of water every week. Some water is coming from one or two leaking bolts in the cabin roof but a lot of moisture appears to be coming from condensation running down the inside of the outer hull. The water is always crystal clear so I'm sure the boat is not leaking from the river, which is very muddy. Has anyone installed bilge pumps in a Macgregor 26S? Did you install one on each side? Where did you route the hoses - new thru hull fittings - tie into the existing sink outlet? What did you do about placing the pump(s) in the v-shaped hull bottoms? Does a little water remain in the hull all the time? How did you secure the pumps to the hull? I would greatly appreciate any replies.
Bilge pumps
- Thread starter dave63021
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Mine has manual pumps...
Dave, My 26S has 2 manual bilge pumps, each mounted on either side of the water ballast tank. I guess one won't do with the WB tank in the middle since water would collect on both sides. The PO has one that drains out via a thru-hull seacock and another that drains out the sink opening. It'd be nice to be able to only have one auto bilge pump in the middle if water could collect there, but I guess two are needed. Kevin B.
Dave, My 26S has 2 manual bilge pumps, each mounted on either side of the water ballast tank. I guess one won't do with the WB tank in the middle since water would collect on both sides. The PO has one that drains out via a thru-hull seacock and another that drains out the sink opening. It'd be nice to be able to only have one auto bilge pump in the middle if water could collect there, but I guess two are needed. Kevin B.
I use a sponge
Hi Dave, I am a relatively new owner of my 1995 C but found the exact same thing. About an inch in each bilge after a single daysail. Also finding clean water, and have no idea where it is coming from. I usually just use a sponge and a bucket, takes 5 mins. My only problem is that I am planning on taking extended trips with a ton of kids, so would like to use these bilges for storage. How do you waterproof a sleeping bag...? :0)
Hi Dave, I am a relatively new owner of my 1995 C but found the exact same thing. About an inch in each bilge after a single daysail. Also finding clean water, and have no idea where it is coming from. I usually just use a sponge and a bucket, takes 5 mins. My only problem is that I am planning on taking extended trips with a ton of kids, so would like to use these bilges for storage. How do you waterproof a sleeping bag...? :0)
Leaking chain plates
One area to consider is the chainplates. These guys get stressed alot as you load and unload them with every tack. I was getting water in the bilge (my 26S) and found this was the main source. Reset/sealed them and have been dry ever since.
One area to consider is the chainplates. These guys get stressed alot as you load and unload them with every tack. I was getting water in the bilge (my 26S) and found this was the main source. Reset/sealed them and have been dry ever since.
water proof
Chris, I am wondering how you get the "cooler" into the porte settee compartment. Mine has a flange running around the edge, so that it hanges off the top of the settee. In other words, the top of the cooler is bigger than the hole that it sits in. It also appears that your Rubbermade containers are larger than the opening to the setee. How did you get them in there? I have used a similiar solution for keeping stuff dry. Sterilite brand makes a container that fits perfectly into the holes in the settees and the Vee berth. It has inside measurements of 7&7/8" X 12&7/8", with a 1/2" flange around the top. These containers slip into the existing holes and hang above the bilge just like the cooler does, and are readily available at hardware and big box stores. They come in two different depths, the deeper one is 10&1/5", the other is about 6". I am still using the cooler as dry storage as I have not found a better solution for that hole. I like your idea as it uses much more of the space than I am currently able to. One of my spring projects has been to install a 28&1/2" X 19&1/2" X15"(depth) plastic box in the Veebirth, just forward of the head. This will open up a significant amount of storage space, even for sleeping bags. To Vitger, I would suggest dry bags for the sleeping bags. You can spend a lot of $ for the type that whitewater rafters use - these will keep contents dry even through complete imersion. That is a fairly unlikley event on a typical family sail, so you can buy cheaper ones that are "splash proof". You can also use the bags to store extra duffle out in the cock pit when trying to make room for sleeping.
Chris, I am wondering how you get the "cooler" into the porte settee compartment. Mine has a flange running around the edge, so that it hanges off the top of the settee. In other words, the top of the cooler is bigger than the hole that it sits in. It also appears that your Rubbermade containers are larger than the opening to the setee. How did you get them in there? I have used a similiar solution for keeping stuff dry. Sterilite brand makes a container that fits perfectly into the holes in the settees and the Vee berth. It has inside measurements of 7&7/8" X 12&7/8", with a 1/2" flange around the top. These containers slip into the existing holes and hang above the bilge just like the cooler does, and are readily available at hardware and big box stores. They come in two different depths, the deeper one is 10&1/5", the other is about 6". I am still using the cooler as dry storage as I have not found a better solution for that hole. I like your idea as it uses much more of the space than I am currently able to. One of my spring projects has been to install a 28&1/2" X 19&1/2" X15"(depth) plastic box in the Veebirth, just forward of the head. This will open up a significant amount of storage space, even for sleeping bags. To Vitger, I would suggest dry bags for the sleeping bags. You can spend a lot of $ for the type that whitewater rafters use - these will keep contents dry even through complete imersion. That is a fairly unlikley event on a typical family sail, so you can buy cheaper ones that are "splash proof". You can also use the bags to store extra duffle out in the cock pit when trying to make room for sleeping.
Getting it all to fit
The cooler can be inserted into the opening so the flange is under it - tilt sideways and insert one end first - match the bottom slope to the hull. I also removed the foam insulation from the cooler but I think it would still fit with it. Anyway, once the cooler is in the opening, just shove it forward as far as it'll go. I drilled a couple holes through the fibreglass under the cushions and into the flange and used 2 small bolts just to keep it from sliding around. To get the plastic bins to fit you need to pinch in the tops and fiddle a bit - but they do fit. If you go to the photo galley in the attached link and look at the "Macgregor project" album you'll see more of these storage solutions. For the V berth, I prefer a split access hatch and use Rubbermaid containers to keep things dry "down there". This way you have better access to the space and it's use - something you'll lose with a fixed mount container. Chris
The cooler can be inserted into the opening so the flange is under it - tilt sideways and insert one end first - match the bottom slope to the hull. I also removed the foam insulation from the cooler but I think it would still fit with it. Anyway, once the cooler is in the opening, just shove it forward as far as it'll go. I drilled a couple holes through the fibreglass under the cushions and into the flange and used 2 small bolts just to keep it from sliding around. To get the plastic bins to fit you need to pinch in the tops and fiddle a bit - but they do fit. If you go to the photo galley in the attached link and look at the "Macgregor project" album you'll see more of these storage solutions. For the V berth, I prefer a split access hatch and use Rubbermaid containers to keep things dry "down there". This way you have better access to the space and it's use - something you'll lose with a fixed mount container. Chris
Dual bilges
Thanks everyone for the information Question for Kevin B With your two manual pumps, how did you mount them in the bilges? On an angle? Flat on the bottom? After pumping the water out, do you have just a little water left over that you don't worry about?
Thanks everyone for the information Question for Kevin B With your two manual pumps, how did you mount them in the bilges? On an angle? Flat on the bottom? After pumping the water out, do you have just a little water left over that you don't worry about?
A very manual bilge pump
I use a half gallon milk jug with half the top cut off but leaving the handle. The 90 degree bend opposite the handle fits well into the V-shaped portions of the bilge. I've been lucky with leaks. So far, the most water I've gotten is when I have a senior moment and forget to put the plug back into the ballast tank vent hole. I also have a cheap 12v bilge pump with about 10' of hose. I put a cigarette lighter plug on it and can move it around the boat if I need to.
I use a half gallon milk jug with half the top cut off but leaving the handle. The 90 degree bend opposite the handle fits well into the V-shaped portions of the bilge. I've been lucky with leaks. So far, the most water I've gotten is when I have a senior moment and forget to put the plug back into the ballast tank vent hole. I also have a cheap 12v bilge pump with about 10' of hose. I put a cigarette lighter plug on it and can move it around the boat if I need to.
Fitting the bins
Chris, thanks for the photos - very nice boat! Now I remember where I got the idea for the steering tiller mounted to the top of the outboard. As to my V berth container, it will be easily removable for access forward. I have built a cradle made of plastic deck boards for box to fit into. The cradle will be glued to the bilge. but the box will pull right out. The P.O. had installed a 20 gallon hard plastic water tank in this same spot, severly limiting access under the berth. I am installing a flexible tank in front of the storage area, and will use the deck fill and plumbing to the sink pump that he installed. I will be working on the boat later this afternoon, and will try out your cooler idea. I would appreciate getting the measurements from your Rubbermaid containers some day when the snow melts. We had another 4" here last night, but the day is warming up nicely now.
Chris, thanks for the photos - very nice boat! Now I remember where I got the idea for the steering tiller mounted to the top of the outboard. As to my V berth container, it will be easily removable for access forward. I have built a cradle made of plastic deck boards for box to fit into. The cradle will be glued to the bilge. but the box will pull right out. The P.O. had installed a 20 gallon hard plastic water tank in this same spot, severly limiting access under the berth. I am installing a flexible tank in front of the storage area, and will use the deck fill and plumbing to the sink pump that he installed. I will be working on the boat later this afternoon, and will try out your cooler idea. I would appreciate getting the measurements from your Rubbermaid containers some day when the snow melts. We had another 4" here last night, but the day is warming up nicely now.
Rubbermaid bins - the Macgregor model
Hi Blake, The bins are Rubbermaid model 2223 - it's a common and current model. I attached a pic. The size on the label is 23.01 X 16.75 X 9 inches but they tend to be the perfect shape to sit level with the inner side resting on the ledge in the bilge. I don't want to reveal how many bins I bought and tried before finding these! Chris
Hi Blake, The bins are Rubbermaid model 2223 - it's a common and current model. I attached a pic. The size on the label is 23.01 X 16.75 X 9 inches but they tend to be the perfect shape to sit level with the inner side resting on the ledge in the bilge. I don't want to reveal how many bins I bought and tried before finding these! Chris
Bins and bilge pumps
I just got done with epoxying the anchor points for the flexible water tank and glueing the cradle in place for my storage box. It is suppose to get down into the teens here tonight so I left a heater on with a fan going to keep the v berth warm. While I was out there I mounted the "cooler" in place under the forward hatch in the port settee as Chris suggested. I also rerouted the line for pulling up the centerboard and added another pulley for mechanical advantage, another Chris idea from a different post. Thanks Chris, and thanks for the Rubbermaid measurements. Hey Dave, I have a bilge pump rigged like Robspan's. I find that the water usually accumulates under the settees on each side. I move the pump from one side to the other and pump the water out the sink drain. There is always a little bit of water that the pump will not get. I hold the pump base flush with the slope of the hull. This seems to be the most effective angle and that is how I would mount the pumps if I ever got around to it. I think I would use 3M 4200 to stick it to the hull. Some poster to this site once suggested gluing in a piece of dental floss that could be used like a saw to cut through the stuff to remove the pump later.
I just got done with epoxying the anchor points for the flexible water tank and glueing the cradle in place for my storage box. It is suppose to get down into the teens here tonight so I left a heater on with a fan going to keep the v berth warm. While I was out there I mounted the "cooler" in place under the forward hatch in the port settee as Chris suggested. I also rerouted the line for pulling up the centerboard and added another pulley for mechanical advantage, another Chris idea from a different post. Thanks Chris, and thanks for the Rubbermaid measurements. Hey Dave, I have a bilge pump rigged like Robspan's. I find that the water usually accumulates under the settees on each side. I move the pump from one side to the other and pump the water out the sink drain. There is always a little bit of water that the pump will not get. I hold the pump base flush with the slope of the hull. This seems to be the most effective angle and that is how I would mount the pumps if I ever got around to it. I think I would use 3M 4200 to stick it to the hull. Some poster to this site once suggested gluing in a piece of dental floss that could be used like a saw to cut through the stuff to remove the pump later.
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