I have a question on the installation of a automatic bilge pump, I know how to mount and properly wire it for unattended use. The question is how far above the waterline should the exit through hull be and what is the minimun heighth above that for the top of the discharge hose loop. A second question; has anyone replaced the opening head portlights with aluminum instead of the factory plastic, ditto for the opening hatch. Are there any disadvantages/tips for such an installation (other than cost), any suggestions for manufacturers? All information and ideas appreciated. As the boat is berthed in Baltimore and I reside in Colorado it is always an attempt to solve most things before I go visit the boat.
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Vic
Funny ... but just today I noticed that the ...
head port holes cut through the deck and the plastic window ... which is fake!!! and just a design element. I'm inclined to think that just about anything will work ... including oversize which is no harm since it doesn't have to match anything ... I suggest you check out the eyelids that seem to be available to keep some rain water out. the most expensive option will be trying to match the existing size ... instead of picking something up at a consignment shop or sale. Given a choice I would run the bilge pump hose through the starboard settee storage area, under the sink, through the back lazette and out the stern of the boat about six inches from the deck sort of next to the fuel tank. probably it will run a short bit next to hose for the hand pump which i think runs sort of under the toilet floor and that plastic drain for the shower. But now that i think of it ... the shower runs into the bilge. Shower you say? That's why the head faucet is on a fex hose. But you knew that. Vic "Seven"
head port holes cut through the deck and the plastic window ... which is fake!!! and just a design element. I'm inclined to think that just about anything will work ... including oversize which is no harm since it doesn't have to match anything ... I suggest you check out the eyelids that seem to be available to keep some rain water out. the most expensive option will be trying to match the existing size ... instead of picking something up at a consignment shop or sale. Given a choice I would run the bilge pump hose through the starboard settee storage area, under the sink, through the back lazette and out the stern of the boat about six inches from the deck sort of next to the fuel tank. probably it will run a short bit next to hose for the hand pump which i think runs sort of under the toilet floor and that plastic drain for the shower. But now that i think of it ... the shower runs into the bilge. Shower you say? That's why the head faucet is on a fex hose. But you knew that. Vic "Seven"
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Tom Ehmke
Paul, about your bilge pump installation
I just sent an e-mail to another ODay 272 owner this weekend describing how to install a bilge pump in the shallow bilge of a 272 and how to route the hose from the pump to the thru-hull. He also wanted to know how to install a remote switch. If you e-mail me at tomclaud@wcnet.org, I will be glad to forward the post to you. It is kind of long, so I'd rather do it this way. Regarding the portlights in the head area, they are made by Beckson. Go to beckson.com and you can buy any replacement part you want. Or you can replace the entire portlight if you want without having to alter the opening. I replaced the lenses and gaskets on my 272 last fall and everything went well. You or Vic mentioned the downside to the OEM portlight. There is no external drainage for the window. I always have to hold a towel under the portlight when I open it after a rain. The newer models have drainage built in. Tom
I just sent an e-mail to another ODay 272 owner this weekend describing how to install a bilge pump in the shallow bilge of a 272 and how to route the hose from the pump to the thru-hull. He also wanted to know how to install a remote switch. If you e-mail me at tomclaud@wcnet.org, I will be glad to forward the post to you. It is kind of long, so I'd rather do it this way. Regarding the portlights in the head area, they are made by Beckson. Go to beckson.com and you can buy any replacement part you want. Or you can replace the entire portlight if you want without having to alter the opening. I replaced the lenses and gaskets on my 272 last fall and everything went well. You or Vic mentioned the downside to the OEM portlight. There is no external drainage for the window. I always have to hold a towel under the portlight when I open it after a rain. The newer models have drainage built in. Tom
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Tom Ehmke
Paul, hope you got my e-mail
Your call, but if you want some further input about the bilge, you can reply here rather than through e-mail to me at home. This way others may offer some ideas that neither of us have thought of. Tom
Your call, but if you want some further input about the bilge, you can reply here rather than through e-mail to me at home. This way others may offer some ideas that neither of us have thought of. Tom
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Bob Todd
I didn't run an extra hose for bilge pump...
I cut the pick-up off end the existing manual bilge pump hose and hooked my automatic bilge pump up to that. Works fine in auto-mode as well as manual. Cheers, Bob
I cut the pick-up off end the existing manual bilge pump hose and hooked my automatic bilge pump up to that. Works fine in auto-mode as well as manual. Cheers, Bob
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Tom Ehmke
Bob, that's the way my pump is hooked up
but the way I read Paul's post, there is apparently no manual pump on board as he is asking where to install a thru-hull for the bilge discharge. I hope I misunderstood. For his sake I hope he already has a manual pump and will be able to connect the automatic pump to the discharge line already located in the bilge. I also installed a remote automatic switch as an upgrade, which meant I had to follow a path alongside the bilge hose. It was the easiest way to lead the switch wires to the location next to the electrical panel where I installed the manual/off/automatic switch. I replaced the Rule (junk) float switch with a SeeWater sensor which is fastened to the forward side of the center bilge compartment.
but the way I read Paul's post, there is apparently no manual pump on board as he is asking where to install a thru-hull for the bilge discharge. I hope I misunderstood. For his sake I hope he already has a manual pump and will be able to connect the automatic pump to the discharge line already located in the bilge. I also installed a remote automatic switch as an upgrade, which meant I had to follow a path alongside the bilge hose. It was the easiest way to lead the switch wires to the location next to the electrical panel where I installed the manual/off/automatic switch. I replaced the Rule (junk) float switch with a SeeWater sensor which is fastened to the forward side of the center bilge compartment.
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Paul Breeding
Thanks to all
Thanks to everyone responding to my concerns of mounting an electric/automatic bilge pump. To ease your fears, yes I do have a manual pump I assume it is original equipment. Because I am away from the boat for long periods I want to build in some redundancy protection (peace of mind). Except for the icebox drain there has been no acumulation in the bilge, but without the ability to check it often I am installing a back up system. For some reason I was thinking that an additional discharge outlet would be required, completely overlooked the obvious of tee-ing into the existing.
Thanks to everyone responding to my concerns of mounting an electric/automatic bilge pump. To ease your fears, yes I do have a manual pump I assume it is original equipment. Because I am away from the boat for long periods I want to build in some redundancy protection (peace of mind). Except for the icebox drain there has been no acumulation in the bilge, but without the ability to check it often I am installing a back up system. For some reason I was thinking that an additional discharge outlet would be required, completely overlooked the obvious of tee-ing into the existing.
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John R.
Bilge Pump
To add to this discussion I am also installing a bilge pump. I am putting in a "Y" valve onto the manual line and running both lines so the water runs down and out the discharge outlet.
To add to this discussion I am also installing a bilge pump. I am putting in a "Y" valve onto the manual line and running both lines so the water runs down and out the discharge outlet.
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Tom Ehmke
John, why a Y-valve?
I haven't been down to my boat to check exactly how my automatic and manual bilge pumps are connected to the discharge hose, but I never have to operate a valve to open or close one side or the other. Both are always open to be pumped. The little bit of liquid that may flow back into the bilge after pumping isn't enough to require a valve to prevent it, and why would you want to isolate one side from the other? I will go down to take a look this weekend and see exactly how the two are joined. Tom
I haven't been down to my boat to check exactly how my automatic and manual bilge pumps are connected to the discharge hose, but I never have to operate a valve to open or close one side or the other. Both are always open to be pumped. The little bit of liquid that may flow back into the bilge after pumping isn't enough to require a valve to prevent it, and why would you want to isolate one side from the other? I will go down to take a look this weekend and see exactly how the two are joined. Tom
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Bob Todd
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John R.
Y
The Y is a just a simple plastic Y valve Auto pump - / - manual pump / Y | | o - outlet my reasoning is if for some reason I need to pump out using the manual all the water flows out of the boat and not recycled. Thus less work. Grant it the bilge is small. My thinking is for if I really need to use the manual. A T valve would also work if all hoses are lead down. Justless stress on the hose with a Y.
The Y is a just a simple plastic Y valve Auto pump - / - manual pump / Y | | o - outlet my reasoning is if for some reason I need to pump out using the manual all the water flows out of the boat and not recycled. Thus less work. Grant it the bilge is small. My thinking is for if I really need to use the manual. A T valve would also work if all hoses are lead down. Justless stress on the hose with a Y.
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