Bilge Pump

[KZW]

The Sahara S500 bilge pump in my boat died last week. I cleaned it a month ago as the float had been sticking in the down position. I used the check knob on the back and it worked just fine. Apparently, some time last week, it got stuck in the up (run) position. The pump ran continuously for an unknown number of hours and somewhere along the line it gave up. With power applied it tries to turn but cannot lift water.

I've looked about the web for a replacement. This is complicated by the very tight space in the 310 bilge, both side to side and fore/aft. Many pumps just won't fit. Based on the reviews, all the mechanical float switches, Attwood, Rule, Shurflo fail on a regular basis and the passive switches gum up from silt and other bilge debris and also quit. It would appear the industry has not found a solution to the banning of mercury switches.

In the end, I've ordered another Sahara S500 as I can use the screen mounting base from the previous one and just plug int he top of the new one. The Sahara is supposed to be mounted fore/aft, but the placement of the keel bolts wont permit it.

Another point. It seems I have a check valve in the discharge line. Should I remove it?

 

[woodster]

if you remove the check valve its a smart move on your part but you may have to raise the pump up a little higher in the bilge to keep it from cycling on and off when the water that is in the discharge line drains back down into the bilge

 

[peter_ms]

Woodster is correct about the check valve in that it minimizes cycling of the pump.
Our small bilges hold less volume than the discharge hose. This is the only configuration in which ABYC allows the installation of a check valve in a bilge pump discharge line to prevent the effluent from just running back into the bilge and starting the pump again.
Raising the switch doesn't help unless there are adjustable limits or a timed run which allow a longer discharge cycle. We are pretty much trapped with the check valve. You have to ensure it gets no particles inside which will hold the flapper disc open as it will trickle back.
Peter

 

[KZW]

Woodster is correct about the check valve in that it minimizes cycling of the pump.
Our small bilges hold less volume than the discharge hose. This is the only configuration in which ABYC allows the installation of a check valve in a bilge pump discharge line to prevent the effluent from just running back into the bilge and starting the pump again.
Raising the switch doesn't help unless there are adjustable limits or a timed run which allow a longer discharge cycle. We are pretty much trapped with the check valve. You have to ensure it gets no particles inside which will hold the flapper disc open as it will trickle back.
Peter

Thanks. I had no idea. This site is a wealth of information. I can sail the boat. Getting a handle on all the systems has been, and obviously will continue to be, a real education.

 

[peter_ms]

It's truly an awesome boat.
We paid a @hitload for For Pete's Sake Hull #147 when we bought her new in 2001.
The Canadian dollar was 0.63USD but we had fallen in love with Hull #3 at the Annapolis Boat Show.
We have never regretted the purchase; though we had some big quality issues at first.
We have a fin keel; one of the few on Lake Ontario.
I actually don't know how many they built with fins...
Enjoy
Peter

 

[KZW]

The spouse says I pay more attention to, and spend more time with, Amazing Grace, than I do with her. She is a great boat!

 

[Tom J]

So far, my girlfriend and my boat get along great.

 

[KZW]

New Sahara S500 installed and checked good.

 

[Cat 310 #1 in GA]

I too have a check valve because without it there is quite a lot of water that stays in the bilge at all times: enough to cover the keel bolts. Have a separate electronic float switch that I regularly clean and also regularly make sure the check valve is not clogged or mucked up. So far so good - it has been about a year with this set-up.
bob